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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing Help/Repair/Maintenance → three voltage LED's ? supposed to be on or off?
After a sudden stop of all function. My board shows three voltage LED's, no other lights or sounds. IS there a guideline that shows the meaning/troubleshooting procedure for these?
See post--- 1.0 dead where to go from here?
I have no Idea if this is normal.
Joe
There should be 12v, 5v, and 3.3v LED on at all times. Your issue is probably one or both of the zero ohm resistors used as fuses near the 12v input have opened. This is most commonly caused by using the brass brush to clean the hotend while it is heating. Not something you should do.
I bet that is what I did! Been doing this for years but I guess I just been dodging the bullet.
Will I likely need to reflash the firmware after replacing the resistors?
Joe
Are these resistors RV3, 4 and 5 ?
These seem to be for each of the voltages. each is accompanied by a C4, 5 and 6 respectively in close proximity to the resistor and bridging the same circuits.
Are there two zero Ohm resistors on the 12V?
Is the problem with the brass brush that it shorts the positive side of the heater rod to ground?
Also, would I still have three red voltage LED's illuminated if i had blown the zero Ohm resistors? All three of mine are on, like they should be, I guess.
I bet that is what I did! Been doing this for years but I guess I just been dodging the bullet.
Will I likely need to reflash the firmware after replacing the resistors?Joe
Once the resistors are replaced it should be fine as long as nothing else was damaged. As for which parts are them if you could provide a picture of your board with attention to that area I could point them out. it has been a while since I looked at an XYZ board so I am not sure what the designators on them where. Yes there are two on the 12 volt..
Is the problem with the brass brush that it shorts the positive side of the heater rod to ground?
What usually happens is the insulating sleeves do not go all the way down to the body of the heater leaving power and ground exposed. The brass brush being metal creates a short here and blows those fuses. They should have a warning sticker telling you not to use the brush while the heat is on.
Are we talking about C6 and RV5? lower left?
I do have all three red leds when the board is powered -up.
Joe
RV3, RV4, RV5 along with C4 C5 and C6 are noise filtering circuits and are not the cause of your problem. R15, R16, R17 are current limiting resistors for LEDs D1, D2, D3. all that appears to be working.
Which wires go to your heater element? Is it J4?
EDIT:So the best that I can see is that there are no zero ohm resistors on this board. But if carl differs, I will differ to him.
What are the markings on chip Q1. My old eyes can read the info.
EDIT2 - So you can see from this link https://forum.voltivo.com/images/R271.jpg , that the zero ohm resistors (R47 and R57 ) on the 1.0A board and what they look like. They , or ones like it , are not present on your board
EDIT3 - Never mind about Q1. Found another photo of your board. It is B55NF60L with is a power mosfet to turn on your heating element.
J4 is the heater
Chips 01 and 02 are makred as follows: B55NF06c, GE051 V3, CHN 2105
RV5 is the 12 volt fuse, but if the LEDS are all on then that means you have all three power rails going into the board. That means your issue is with the actual board and could be any number of things but if it is just dead then chances are the firmware has crashed and the machine does not know what to do. You could reflash it if that is the case. Or there is an issue with voltages further into the board. If that's the case then you are looking at a new board or a complete logic swap.
RV3, RV4, RV5 along with C4 C5 and C6 are noise filtering circuits and are not the cause of your problem. R15, R16, R17 are current limiting resistors for LEDs D1, D2, D3. all that appears to be working.
Which wires go to your heater element? Is it J4?
EDIT:So the best that I can see is that there are no zero ohm resistors on this board. But if carl differs, I will differ to him.
What are the markings on chip Q1. My old eyes can read the info.EDIT2 - So you can see from this link https://forum.voltivo.com/images/R271.jpg , that the zero ohm resistors (R47 and R57 ) on the 1.0A board and what they look like. They , or ones like it , are not present on your board
EDIT3 - Never mind about Q1. Found another photo of your board. It is B55NF60L with is a power mosfet to turn on your heating element.
The ones marked RV# are actually zero ohm resistors that are used as fuses due to their wattage rating rather than their resistance. Resistors DO NOT filter. The filter is done by those large electrolytic caps that are on each rail. His board os one of the second gen boards and it is laid out a bit different from the one that is on the voltivo site.
The ones marked RV# are actually zero ohm resistors that are used as fuses due to their wattage rating rather than their resistance. Resistors DO NOT filter. The filter is done by those large electrolytic caps that are on each rail. His board os one of the second gen boards and it is laid out a bit different from the one that is on the voltivo site.
EDIT - Not sure I fully agree. In this circuit it appears to me that the RV* bridges voltage to ground, along with the small cap. To me that is an RC network, along with the bigger cap. But, I will defer to carl, as he is more familiar with this board
Sooo...Looks like the only forward step is to try flashing and then buy a board and hope that was it? ...when I went to do the Davcinci 1.0 reset, the first instruction was to input a command in the arduino app and look for the LCD to cycle off , then back on with another command. How can this be done if there is no lcd light to begin with?
Also, Thanks very much to both Carl and MJF. I read through countless pages of reference to the current limiting diodes, not understanding if the issues were really anything like what I'm seeing here. As I read back , I now can see that each of them had at least some function as well as power missing on at least one voltage circuit.
Your help and clarification is much appreciated.
Any other thoughts on how to discern if the board is toast?
Joe
This may be a wonderful opportunity to convert to RAMPS, as I think the cost will be less than a new xyz board ( saw one on eBay for 99 dollars.). Unless Carl or someone else has more ideas....
But...if you have a multimeter, you could measure the resistance of those RV* resistors and see that there is some resistance, not open. May be 0 as Carl suggests, or some other value. But not open or infinity/ overload depending on the meter. If overload/infinity/open, then the resistor is blown.
DO THIS WITH POWER OFF and UNPLUGGED.
P.s. can you read that is written on top of one of those resistors.?
There was a third gen board that I never actually saw. But it is possible this could be that board as well. There would still need to be some sort of over current protection on each rail, it is just a matter of finding where they are located on the board.
I'll check the resistance of RV# resistors, but If I understand correctly, were they blown, I'd have no LED's?
RV 3, 4, 5 are just black and have no value written on them. All three show some continuity and are not open (Around 7-50 on the 20K Ohm scale I f I'm reading it right). No power and power supply and load side disconnected.
joealphadog, so we know power is getting into the board, the resistors are not open and all 3 leds are lit (12, 5 and 3.3 volt rails). My only other suggestion would be to look on the back of the LCD screen, find the model of it, look up the datasheet on the internet, probe the power pins there to make sure that the correct power has made it to the LCD. If that all works out, then something else is very wrong, and we don't know enough to diagnose it.
Thats about all I can do to help. Come back and let us know what you find or do.
Thanks MJF, I'll do that.
The LCD does display the two black lines (which suggests it's at least getting some form of power) when powered on which some folks say is a sign that the firmware has been corrupted, but no backlight, and no internal illumination lights on the light bar either. Is there a way to flash the firmware to the SD card without the board, then re-insert it? Or does the firmware reside on a the board?
Forgive my naivite. While I'm an aeronautical engineer by trade and can achieve some pretty miniscule surface mount and hot-air PCB repairs if needed, other skills acquired over the years, Software and controls programming still baffles me a bit.
It would be truly sad to buy a board and find it's something else, Especially on a printer so long in the tooth already.
I really appreciate your help and patience.
-Joe
Thanks MJF, I'll do that.
The LCD does display the two black lines (which suggests it's at least getting some form of power) when powered on which some folks say is a sign that the firmware has been corrupted, but no backlight, and no internal illumination lights on the light bar either. Is there a way to flash the firmware to the SD card without the board, then re-insert it? Or does the firmware reside on a the board?
Forgive my naivite. While I'm an aeronautical engineer by trade and can achieve some pretty miniscule surface mount and hot-air PCB repairs if needed, other skills acquired over the years, Software and controls programming still baffles me a bit.
It would be truly sad to buy a board and find it's something else, Especially on a printer so long in the tooth already.
I really appreciate your help and patience.
-Joe
Joe, no problem, happy to help.
I suspect that you are correct that the voltages are correct, and that it is a firmware corruption issue, but wanted to check out everything I can think of before you give it up.
I have seen on these displays that if the contrast voltage is not correct, then you will get black bars. I was / am hoping you may see a blown resistor.
-Mark
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing Help/Repair/Maintenance → three voltage LED's ? supposed to be on or off?
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