1 Topic by n2ri

  • n2ri
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  • From: St Louis MO USA area
  • Registered: 2013-02-03
  • Posts: 2,539

Topic: long time since posted here due to agravating issues with both my prin

I just got the nerve yesterday to try my printer again after trying to unblock nozzle/hotend over a year ago. well it still clogs after about 30mins printing then it wont clear for more than a few mins. temps, filament, settings and even nozzle/tube are fine. must be something like the liner in tube or ? moving/blocking orifice. I think its time for a new hotend assm with original .35mm nozzle the SD2 came with. I dont have the money or desire to do mod upgrades on it now as a new better featured printer can be purchased for less. I just want it to work like it did b4 the bad roll of filament done it in some how.

Tim unless I missed alot the last year I think your the one to help here? dont you sell a new hotend that is a drop in for the original Solidoodle and cheaper than the V6 thing most upgrade to? I am only going to use this old Solidoodle 2 for small ABS prints and maybe some day get a better printer with duel heads, multi material use etc.

I got people wanting my tiny vehicles and cant print em yet.

missed everybody here but been busy with lots of things around the home and health issues etc so had to put the Hobbies on hold a while. lots to catch up on. anybody ever buy the Solidoodle inventory? I could use some of those parts at a discount.

is the China clone of Makerbot still cheap? or is there better printers at low cost now?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

2 Reply by n2ri

  • n2ri
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  • From: St Louis MO USA area
  • Registered: 2013-02-03
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Re: long time since posted here due to agravating issues with both my prin

I just started heating and clearing my extruder and was remembering when this started I was dealing with the too fat filament from Octave also heater failed and I installed new one. then looking at it the alum block heater is in was not tight against nozzle (maybe heatsink migration to nozzle not great causing temp glides. also some heat may be getting into cold area melting filament at retraction part of it then getting squished into cool cavity and cooling enough to plug/jam filament. does this sound likely on a factory SD2? or is there a plastic tube in their heads that may be damaged? what if I put a ceramic washer on the barrel between heat sink and Peak as there is room enough, would that help cut migration of heat some? also how can I set retraction length in settings/config? or is it only the place in manual control in Repiteer like we use to run filament in and out? maybe its retracting too much and getting soft filament in trabsistion area allowing it to get mushroomed and jamming.


thoughts anyone? Mitch

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

3 Reply by n2ri

  • n2ri
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  • From: St Louis MO USA area
  • Registered: 2013-02-03
  • Posts: 2,539

Re: long time since posted here due to agravating issues with both my prin

update; after resetting many config points to default, clearing nozzle good and resetting filament/printer settings and moving retraction from 3 to 1 as default. I was able to print an 1.5 hour print perfectly for 1st time in over a year.

I read several topics on here with similar problems and saw a patern in these areas. seems the SD2 at least no matter which RH version. has a tendincy to retract melted plastic to far then it jams just b4 barrel to nozzle in the larger cavity midway. even retreived a peice of filament from there that had musroom head. then as flow stops plasic burns/hardens at orifice or nozzle requiring cleaning from both end using a 1mm nickel silver rod from top and either a #80 orifice drill or .02mm phosfer bronze rod through nozzle end from bottom. rods are available at local hobby shop but costly like over $6 for pack of 6. use great care with the .02mm rods as they are very hard to see yet very hard and sharp and can stab deep b4 you even know it. Kevlar gloves wont stop it either. I done this without removing hot end just heat it up using RH manual controls. clean all plastic out may need to move rods around or twist them to grip plastic and pull slowly out, then use twizzers etc to pull/scrape it off rod (the tiny rod will be imposible to do clean at times so I cut the 12" peices in half and tossed dirty parts like expencive Q-Tips) got 1 of the tiny rods left. and only 1 or the bigger ones got bent in use. still cheapest fix. now I can print while trying to make funds for upgrades. just wanted to share my fix with the group.

Mitch

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs