Not a great start (Page 1 of 2)

Thanks,

Ok so I now see it is acrylic, sorry - the black soot that was rubbing off on my fingers from the coating i've only ever had with MDF, admittedly I jumped the gun on that one.

Thanks for posting the video, but there is no way in hell mine is sliding like that - I can barely fit it on the end of the auger (not without a hammer - im serious)

so I guess I have to file the crap out of the auger?

It looks like you received an auger that has hex flats a hair on the large side, and a hex socket that is a hair on the small side. That won't affect anything in operation, though.

The sliding is just one way of checking the distances. You could either file the end of the auger (shouldn't take long, maybe a few minutes) or just check that the hex socket isn't bottoming out on the gearmotor shaft. If you're worried that it is close, there should be an extra set of 1/4" washers that can be installed between the chassis and gearbox to backspace the motor a bit.

Ok so have run into my next problem.

Step 15, my Auger sticks out 12.82mm, not the required 10mm

Im assuming this is bad as it tells me to contact support

There is no way I can make it shorter without cutting it more.

**

Edit
Never mind, found this one

"Don't worry too much about the nozzle to auger clearance, just measure how much of the auger sticks out of the barrel. The target is around 5, maybe 10mm. If you have longer than that sticking out, use the 4 extra acrylic spacers to move the gear motor backwards, by installing the spacers between the gearbox and chassis"

Edit
No screws provided for stall board, no M3 in pack and no larger ones to affix the stall board to the gearbox.

To resolve the 12mm problem I used the extra 4 spacers, so now there is 3 spacers between the block and the first piece of acrylic instead of 2 - I have just enough length on the 4 bolts to still attach the pipe and bolt it down. This leaves me with 5.2mm

I am slowly getting there - missing quite a few screws, notably the stall housing M3 and the other screws to fix the stall housing acrylic piece to the back of the motor.

Would not recommend using the extra spacers but if you want to, put them between the lasercut part and the flange.

I'd recommend just the metal washers between the flange and lasercut part, that'd get you close to 10mm. 10mm isn't a hard limit, 11mm is fine.

Screws for attaching the stall protection board's bracket to the gearmotor are the same screws that were used to mount the gearmotor to the chassis. Should be 6 total.

Should be 2x M3 screws in the main mechanical bag and 2x M3 nuts in the stall protection board's ESD bag for attaching the stall protection board to the stall protection board bracket.

M3 screws hold the stall protection board to the lasercut bracket. M5 screws hold the bracket to the gearmotor.

M5 screws are the same screws that were used to attach the gearmotor to the aluminum chassis.

jinxycob, do you have a 2.1 or a 2.1a kit? Geoff has a 2.1a kit, which slides the shaft collar all the way onto the auger (until it can slide no more).

When the machine is lying normally on it's base, is the Auger meant to be able to move so far it leaves the hex adaptor? I never noticed it when it was standing upright, but once I put it back down I noticed not only does my hex adapter cleanly have 1-2mm of play now - but the auger can actually be pushed completely out of the hex adaptor before it is stopped by the nozzle.

"@geoffro when you added the barrel,auger and front plate, did you fix the side panels and the four long bolts  before tightening the  barrel and front panel, just a chance your alignment maybe off which would prevent you shoving all the case bolts through the casing.. thought I mention this as it got me 

I will give that a go thanks, easier than undoing the entire thing again!

I have 8x  M5 screws

4 x that hold the alum bracket on the gearbox
4 that fix the acrylic panels to eachother (long black ones)

I have no other M5 screws.

But if you are saying use the existing M5's to fix the board on, the photo shows you are attaching them to the end of the block - the opposite end of the motor, the two holes we did not use screws for.

I have found some screws but really, I don't want to spend any more time discussing why they were not there - that's all I was stating, they were not in the kit. They didnt fall out, the bag was intact but as I said, missing M3's and the extra M5's for the board.

But I blame myself, you did say check all components were there before commencing, I just assumed they would be.

As for the 3rd spacer being used, I am confused because "Would not recommend using the extra spacers "  conflicts with advice you gave in another thread:

When you put plastic in what happens is it actually wants to push your augur backwards and TOWARDS the gearbox (like it's trying to push the augur out of the barrel).  The reason this is bad is because inside the gearbox is a gear, and when forces are pushing on that gear it gets shoved back and starts rubbing on the metal casing - eats your gear up, makes you stall from the friction of that, etc.)

That's what the the whole shaft collar is for - and what testing for movement is for.  What you are doing is trying to simulate the plastic trying to push the augur towards the gearbox/motor by pushing on it (just like the plastic will do when it's loaded in and trying to push the augur backwards towards the motor), and at the same time you're trying to make sure the hex socket can move back and forth (not up and down, but back and forth towards and away from the motor).  The idea being if the shaft collar and everything is in the right place you will be able to move that hex socket even when the augur is pushed out to the point that the bearing is up against the frame.  Once you have plastic in it the whole thing becomes a much greater affair, so that's why the instructions say to test it before putting any plastic in.

Different version of the kit include augurs of different lengths - that's why what is recommended for one is not for another.  The whole goal is just to make sure it isn't pushing backwards against the motor/gearbox tightly while you're actively trying to push it that direction (that the thrust bearing and collar are stopping it from doing so), and that it's not sticking out of the barrel too far either.

   just doesnt have to happen, yea it looks tight in there! use an external terminal block kept the wires to a minimum inside for me
     
     you could run the filament fan leads outside/ around the chassis just fine.

bad luck with the K sensor.

Question, are there two lasercut spacers behind your lasercut face-plate or three? Behind the four-bolt flange.

EDIT: I need to read more fully into these things...

First, did you put the grey-black plastic spacer behind the thrust bearing (the thing with little rollers)? If so, remove that. That might get you close to the 10mm mark without the extra lasercut spacers behind the flange.

Second, make doubly sure that the collar (the one that's tightened around the auger shaft with a hex key) is butted up as far to the front of the auger as possible when it's loose. Tighten it there. This will also help alleviate that problem. If this and the spacer removal are done and the shaft still sticks out too much (when you're pushing on it to compress the thrust bearing), then put the lasercut spacers back in right behind the flange and between the front face-plate.

Third, the hex-shaft on the auger can be pretty darn loose on the hex-coupler that connects it to the motor. Make sure it can slide easily.