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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Failing to get up to required temperature, and rapid temp drop.
Hi folks.
Recently, my struder has failed to get up above 170. Then, when turning the motor on, the temperature (or at least the temperature readout) drops as low as 110 while extruding.
Is this most likely to be a power issue?
Thanks.
worrying update:
I left it for a while, and it finally got up to 190. I turned on the motor, and it was jetting out super thin spaghetti. While running, the temp dropped to 170ish. I run it for a few minutes, turn off the motor, and the temp now reads 230! I checked the temperature with a IR thermometer, and the surface of the nozzle was at roughly 210.
What do?
Just from what has been described, the cause could be any of these suspects from most likely to least likely
Power Supply (as is usual with electronics; start by testing for a reliable 12v output with a multimeter)
Thermocouple (Bad readings may confuse the PID controller)
Heater Band (A defective band may heat poorly and inconsistently before dying)
PID Controller (If all else fails...)
Before you start thinking about replacements, troubleshoot the unit.
My first recommendation is to set the voltage and current values on the stall board, since motor draw is a major factor here. Follow the instructions to zero the pots and adjust them to the correct values.
If that doesn't help, try autotuning the PID (also in the instructions). This tells the PID how quickly the heating band can heat up the nozzle, allowing the PID to accurately predicts the correct amount of power to use in order to reach the desired temperature.
It is also important to consider the environment you are using the Filastruder in. While the heater band should be sufficient in most cases, a cold room will obviously slow its heating and require a greater change in nozzle temperature to reach desired temps.
If the unit is on a crowded electrical circuit (lots of appliances or a couple heavy ones), try connecting to a less crowded one. Current-hungry devices drop the AC voltage quite significantly, so the power supply might not be able to create an adequate DC voltage.
Of course, these are just general points for PID controlled heating circuits competing with current heavy devices. Tim's the expert, so he may already know what's wrong and how to fix it.
Double check the thermistor is properly seated then perform a PID tuning. Keep in mind the tuning needs to be done while the fan is running or you will get a wrong reading during normal operations.
Sounds like the thermocouple is bad or not secure.
worrying update:
I left it for a while, and it finally got up to 190. I turned on the motor, and it was jetting out super thin spaghetti. While running, the temp dropped to 170ish. I run it for a few minutes, turn off the motor, and the temp now reads 230! I checked the temperature with a IR thermometer, and the surface of the nozzle was at roughly 210.
What do?
Resecure your thermocouple, if you ran the thermocouple wire under the insulation maybe make sure it hasn't melted away the insulation and grounded the thermocouple anywhere along the pipe.
Did this ever get resolved? I am having the same problem
Infrared temperature reading for those is not very accurate unless you have a very good precise reader.
Temperature instability caused by heater band too far from the coupling (that piece that connects barrel to the nozzle)
Slide it down closer to the nozzle.
Also make sure entire barrel is insulated with at least 1 layer of insulation.
Make sure SESTOS is at default settings (look up the manual here on forum i posted while back)
Once you start turning the motor (after 30 minutes preheat) expect melted plastic inside to come out as watery drops until pellets behind it push them out.
Correctly positioned heater band and good insulation will make temperature stable and provide consistent diameter.
the Lymand Geared Extruder https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vL9zDOdRqBo was VAC 110 to 240VAC Heater AC to DC Shunt only the Motor and voltage Controller all electronics ran on on 12VDC no PSB/ATX supply you had a Full wave Bridge for the VDC running to a 120VDC to 14VDC DC to DC Converter you never had problems with too little heat. why are all these now units using low voltage DC??? Oh yes there is no need for the PTFE Separator
Just from what has been described, the cause could be any of these suspects from most likely to least likely
Power Supply (as is usual with electronics; start by testing for a reliable 12v output with a multimeter)
Thermocouple (Bad readings may confuse the PID controller)
Heater Band (A defective band may heat poorly and inconsistently before dying)
PID Controller (If all else fails...)
Before you start thinking about replacements, troubleshoot the unit.
My first recommendation is to set the voltage and current values on the stall board, since motor draw is a major factor here. Follow the instructions to zero the pots and adjust them to the correct values.
If that doesn't help, try autotuning the PID (also in the instructions). This tells the PID how quickly the heating band can heat up the nozzle, allowing the PID to accurately predicts the correct amount of power to use in order to reach the desired temperature.
It is also important to consider the environment you are using the Filastruder in. While the heater band should be sufficient in most cases, a cold room will obviously slow its heating and require a greater change in nozzle temperature to reach desired temps.
If the unit is on a crowded electrical circuit (lots of appliances or a couple heavy ones), try connecting to a less crowded one. Current-hungry devices drop the AC voltage quite significantly, so the power supply might not be able to create an adequate DC voltage.Of course, these are just general points for PID controlled heating circuits competing with current heavy devices. Tim's the expert, so he may already know what's wrong and how to fix it.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Failing to get up to required temperature, and rapid temp drop.
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