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Topic: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

Setup as bowden in a DAV 1.0.

Ran for awhile but now getting filament jamming.

After the 2nd disassembly what I found is the ptfe coupler, top of heat break,
isnt holding the tube tight enough anymore.

With back pressure in the hot end, the tube backs out causing a gap between the hot end tip and heat break tube.
Im not running that fast 40mm/s.

The coupler isnt replaceable.

Knowing the problem can and will exist, I wouldnt purchase it again.

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

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Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

knucklbustr wrote:

The coupler isnt replaceable.

Sure it is.

https://www.filastruder.com/products/bo … -all-types

3

Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

Sounds like you didn't reset the coupling on the hotend side.
Once you have the PTFE pushed in all the way, back it out and put a tiny flathead between the hotend and the coupling. Push the PTFE back in and you should find that there was some extra space.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

4

Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

elmoret wrote:
knucklbustr wrote:

The coupler isnt replaceable.

Sure it is.

https://www.filastruder.com/products/bo … -all-types


Ive purchased these in the past from you. Your a life saver...
Have you tried replacing the brass collar in a E3D ?
I have, They are pressed in. Needed to drill out, even after heating it.
Then to make my life more miserable, it was installed backwards making the plastic lock collar useless.
Good thing I bought 2.

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

5 (edited by knucklbustr 2016-09-21 15:48:36)

Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

AZERATE wrote:

Sounds like you didn't reset the coupling on the hotend side.
Once you have the PTFE pushed in all the way, back it out and put a tiny flathead between the hotend and the coupling. Push the PTFE back in and you should find that there was some extra space.

On the extruder end there is another coupler, but the plastic lock moves. I have a thin rubber band wrapped in the gap and tied so it stays locked.

Thanks for the suggest, Ill try that w/ the hot end also.

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

6 (edited by knucklbustr 2016-09-21 17:49:30)

Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

Resetup today same prob. Extruder clicking and barely any ABS filament extruded.
This prob originally started suddenly after several good prints.

Ckd temp w/ theromcoupler.

Set at max 270c using Pronterface plugin for Cura.

Actual
Heater - 246c
Block- 230c
Nozzle tip - 220c

I know about the temp diff since the E3D was installed.
about a 20c temp diff from read to actual.

update- 20min later.
Ok, now its working.
The only thing I did was, while hot, back off the hot end tip and re-tighten.

Got rid of the rubber band that helps keep the plastic lock in place w/ thin mechanics wire wrapped.

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

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Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

I use one of these with my V6 Lite ..... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:618001
No problems with the liner slipping out.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

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Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

Are they wide enough to grab and pull out ?

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

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Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

Yeah, it pops out fairly easily if you need to get it off.
There's a few other variations on Thingiverse but that one seems to work fine.
This one looks quite good ..... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:699415

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

10

Re: E3D Lite Filament Jamming

knucklbustr wrote:

Have you tried replacing the brass collar in a E3D ?
I have, They are pressed in. Needed to drill out, even after heating it.
Then to make my life more miserable, it was installed backwards making the plastic lock collar useless.
Good thing I bought 2.

I have not, I don't know why it would be necessary to change the brass collar but I agree it would be difficult to do so. I would probably just purchase a new heatsink in that case.