Buying a Davinci Pro 1.0 or should i wait for 3 in 1 to be release? (Page 2 of 2)

I have decided to get the xyz davinci 1.0 PRO thanks for all your advice. I think any one I get will need work so may as well go with one that has a lot of other models so presumable more R&D behind it.
I will he using "simply3d" and doing the fix posted on here about the hot end. as well as anything else I can come up with.

you are absolutely right..  but as I said I don't know much about any of them and everyone has their own ideas of what is best on all the available models out there. I am making my own decision based on the feedback I received from you all. I don't think I said they know what they are doing I think I said they are more likely to have more put in to R&D.
I am sure I will have issues with any printer I get.

Cheap Chinese copies ??  Surely not.

I've had a Pro since January and glad I didn't go with the 1.0.  As stated by others, it accepts 3rd party filaments saving $$$ over the long run instead of being locked in to the XYZ cartridges (unless you mod the 1.0 which is probably not advisable for a newbie).  Also, the XYZWare Pro software can read gcode generated by Cura/slicr/Simplify3d.  One thing I would recommend doing is to get a sheet of PEI to put over the aluminum bed.  I've tried painters tape, borosilicate glass, etc. and PEI is by far the best way to get your prints to stick.  After switching to PEI, I haven't had to use glue sticks, hair spray, or ABS juice to get my parts to stick.  It makes things much easier.  You can get a sheet on Amazon and just clip them on with binder clips to the bed http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Na … e_o00_s00.

Warping is more common when printing with ABS.  The heated bed will reduce the amount of warping.  For PLA, a heated bed is not required (some printers like the Dremel don't have a heated bed and only supports printing with PLA). However, printing PLA on painters tape or a sheet of glass was always hit or miss in getting the parts to stick, especially the bigger parts.  To get reliable prints, I ended up using glue sticks or hair spray most of the time.  With the PEI sheet, I've never had to use any of these.  The only thing I do differently is to set the bed temperature to 50 (PLA)/80 (ABS) since PEI works better when used in conjunction with a heated bed.

@Scobo, removing parts is easy and snap right off.....as long as you wait until it cools down.  If you try to remove it too early, then you risk damaging the PEI sheet since it sticks so well.