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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → Buying a Davinci Pro 1.0 or should i wait for 3 in 1 to be release?
Like the title says I am about to buy a 3d printer I am looking for decent quality with out a lot of pain in the ass problems. Anyone have the pro?
Also WHAT is a "slicer" i hear about it a lot on here but dont know what it is.
I don't know what a 3 in 1 is, I assume its a scanner and a laser etcher. I haven't used one, but based on my experience with other low cost 3d scanners I'm betting that its not very good.
I recommend the 1.0, I've got 2 of them and a 2.0. Its got a couple of drawbacks, but there are work arounds. The biggest drawback is the software that ships with it. It sucks, it is garbage. Don't even install it. Spend the 200 bucks or whatever it is these days for simplify3d. It'll work with whatever printer you have in the future, where the da vinci will probably be worn out in 3 or 4 years.
second biggest drawback is the chip in the filament. There are a couple of options if you want to run non xyz brand filament. I went with a chip resetter and use 3rd party filmaent. You can also flash 3rd party firmware on the da vinci, but you lose some features like easy offline printing (yes, I know there are workarounds, but they are all a pain in the ass)
3rd drawback is the extruder that they use. It works flawlessly for ABS only. Anything else will jam. Once you get comfortable with your da vinci you can print out brackets to put a better hot end and extruder on there. This is what I did to mine and I can run just about anything I want through it, but I recommend getting comfortable with ABS first. ABS is tricky and depends on a very level bed, but it does make usable parts compared to the PLA only printers that are only good for pool toys and desk ornaments.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1275543
The electronics are a little sensitive. I've only had 1 burn out and it was from me messing with the wiring around the hot end while it was on. That will almost guaranty a blown board. There is a big warning in this forum about not cleaning the hotend while powered up. Follow that.
Some here will hate on the da vinci, but its an enclosed box with decently durable mechanical components. The quality is as good as any other FFF printer out there. Just like any other manufacturing machinery, its not getting any better by leaps and bounds. Heated build chamber is about the only feature its missing once you put an aftermarket extruder and hot end on it.
I don't know what a 3 in 1 is, I assume its a scanner and a laser etcher. I haven't used one, but based on my experience with other low cost 3d scanners I'm betting that its not very good.
I recommend the 1.0, I've got 2 of them and a 2.0. Its got a couple of drawbacks, but there are work arounds. The biggest drawback is the software that ships with it. It sucks, it is garbage. Don't even install it. Spend the 200 bucks or whatever it is these days for simplify3d. It'll work with whatever printer you have in the future, where the da vinci will probably be worn out in 3 or 4 years.
second biggest drawback is the chip in the filament. There are a couple of options if you want to run non xyz brand filament. I went with a chip resetter and use 3rd party filmaent. You can also flash 3rd party firmware on the da vinci, but you lose some features like easy offline printing (yes, I know there are workarounds, but they are all a pain in the ass)
3rd drawback is the extruder that they use. It works flawlessly for ABS only. Anything else will jam. Once you get comfortable with your da vinci you can print out brackets to put a better hot end and extruder on there. This is what I did to mine and I can run just about anything I want through it, but I recommend getting comfortable with ABS first. ABS is tricky and depends on a very level bed, but it does make usable parts compared to the PLA only printers that are only good for pool toys and desk ornaments.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1275543
The electronics are a little sensitive. I've only had 1 burn out and it was from me messing with the wiring around the hot end while it was on. That will almost guaranty a blown board. There is a big warning in this forum about not cleaning the hotend while powered up. Follow that.
Some here will hate on the da vinci, but its an enclosed box with decently durable mechanical components. The quality is as good as any other FFF printer out there. Just like any other manufacturing machinery, its not getting any better by leaps and bounds. Heated build chamber is about the only feature its missing once you put an aftermarket extruder and hot end on it.
the 3 in 1 is basically the davinci 1.0 pro with a scanner built in. it wifi compatable and prints and scans. the xyz website says it will be released very soon.
I have been using the Makerbot replicator for a few months now at school and i print some really nice and durable things. I will print out the hot end bracket from there.
What exactly is a hot end by the way?
I am thinking about buying this one because its all enclosed. Once the fixes are made can it be easily ran? My folks want to be able to use it as well.
How much are "after market" extruders you speak of?
If i but the software is it directly compatible or do i have to do some sort of flashing?
THANKS
I agree with robertf, buy a cheap 1.0, Simplify3D and mod it with an E3D hotend.
A hotend is the part with the nozzle that the heated plastic flows out of.
A slicer is the software you use to convert stl files to gcode which the printer can read. Simplify3D is currently the best and will work with a stock Davinci.
An E3D hotend won't cost much, you can get the Lite version for around £25 or $35.
I would also recommend changing the printers firmware to repetier which is a free download.
Also WHAT is a "slicer" i hear about it a lot on here but dont know what it is.
A "Slicer " is essentially a Computer Aided Manufacturing program CAM that takes a 3D file and Mathematically slices the file into 2d layers. It then creates a tool path for each layer . This is the program that creates the G code that is fed into the host or control program. setting up the slicer tells it things like bottom layers top layer perimeters infill speeds and feed.
CAD program creates a 3d file (123D design from autodesk) CAM creates the g code. Host interprets the g code and sends control signals to computer. Firmware for lack of a better term is instruction to the computer how to act and interpret the signals from the control software.
Hope this helps.
Tin
Regarding the Pro 3 in 1, if the built in scanner is anything like their earlier attempt, it'll be next to useless.
If scanning is critical to you, I'd suggest looking at the Einscan-s.
It's a bit more expensive than some of the other non-professional options but it blows the rest out the water imho in terms of speed and scan quality.
In a previous post you said you where looking for quality. You will not finf that in XYZ printers. They look good on the outside but the inside has many corners cut, cheap wire, poor connectors, and in some models the inability to flash to opne source firmware thus restricting you to their proprietary cartridges. For the price you get what you pay for. Most of the parts needed to build a better printer.
Scanning isnt a need but its a sort of "nice to have" Mainly I want decent print quality. That and relatively ease in use because my non techy parents plan to use it some as well.
if the xyz isnt the one to get what one is? No more than $800 is my biggest requirement.
Is a great question with lots of individualized answers.
Even a $2300 Lutz is going to take significant maintenance, calibration and upkeep. Not a single 3d printer is "inkjet" easy.
That having been said I have learned a lot from the davinci despite its flaws. I think the 1.0 is the way to go to wet your whistle.
Use the xyz software to learn the basics and then jump to repetier host when you want more control
Is a great question with lots of individualized answers.
Even a $2300 Lutz is going to take significant maintenance, calibration and upkeep. Not a single 3d printer is "inkjet" easy.
That having been said I have learned a lot from the davinci despite its flaws. I think the 1.0 is the way to go to wet your whistle.
Use the xyz software to learn the basics and then jump to repetier host when you want more control
I guess it's fair to say I'm new at the printing side of things. I have been using a makerbot replicator for a few months but that wasn't mine so I didn't get in to any upgrades or maintenance.
I'm not new at solid modeling or cad however. I have a degree in cad and a degree in computer aided machining so I understand how things work. It's the "hotend" and the "slicer" and the reasons for hairspray or glue that I'm needing to learn.
Having said that do you still feel the davinci is the best place to start? If so I was looking at the "Divinci 1.0 Pro" and the "DaVinci 1.1 Plus" I don't see the difference in these two, is one better for any reason than the other?
Thanks for your advice!
The printrbot simple metal is a solid little printer.
IIRC $599.
This one is $400 and a fairly well built machine.
http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame
Tin
Having said that do you still feel the davinci is the best place to start? If so I was looking at the "Divinci 1.0 Pro" and the "DaVinci 1.1 Plus" I don't see the difference in these two, is one better for any reason than the other?
Thanks for your advice!
One big difference as far as printing goes is that the Pro allows the use of third party filament whereas the 1.1 plus uses xyz cartridges which are more expensive and poorer quality filament.
I'd still go with a cheap 1.0 and mod the hell out of it !
echo5delta16 wrote:Having said that do you still feel the davinci is the best place to start? If so I was looking at the "Divinci 1.0 Pro" and the "DaVinci 1.1 Plus" I don't see the difference in these two, is one better for any reason than the other?
Thanks for your advice!One big difference as far as printing goes is that the Pro allows the use of third party filament whereas the 1.1 plus uses xyz cartridges which are more expensive and poorer quality filament.
I'd still go with a cheap 1.0 and mod the hell out of it !
Interesting, I thought I read the pro had to use the cartridges as well. Hmm guess not.
I think it can but it also allows for third party filament to be used which is a big bonus !
Really, the advantage of the 1.0 or 1.0a is that it is easy to put a third-party firmware on, which makes it much more like the standard reprap printers that are out there.
1.0 plus adds a webcam... and not hackable. Bleh
Pro up until this point is not hackable, so you are stuck with xyz's software. For the cost, I would look at and more open source printer.
Really, the advantage of the 1.0 or 1.0a is that it is easy to put a third-party firmware on, which makes it much more like the standard reprap printers that are out there.
1.0 plus adds a webcam... and not hackable. Bleh
Pro up until this point is not hackable, so you are stuck with xyz's software. For the cost, I would look at and more open source printer.
The Pro comes with a special version of their software. So it might be better.
I just got the 1.0 Pro myself about a week ago. so far its worked well for me but I've only printed a couple things on it. Here is a video i found on the differences between the regular 1.0 and the 1.0 PRO: https://youtu.be/U6kBktXLsEw
And a review of the PRO software: https://youtu.be/OzajBLdArVc
Another thing to consider with the Pro is it has a bowden extruder instead of direct drive which has pros and cons.
Both are $100 off on Bestbuy.com right now...
Another thing to consider with the Pro is it has a bowden extruder instead of direct drive which has pros and cons.
What are the pros and cons?
You can print faster with bowden as there's less weight on the carriage but the extruder is further from the hotend so it can be harder to feed some filaments, especially flexibles.
You can print faster with bowden as there's less weight on the carriage but the extruder is further from the hotend so it can be harder to feed some filaments, especially flexibles.
Are there workarounds to that? Like a hotter end or something? Sounds like the bowden is better other than that one thing?
Yes you can to a point. Depends on your heat break, if the heat climbs to high up the heat break it starts to melt before hitting the hot end and causes jams. I ramp the temp up when I print 70+mm/s
Yes you can to a point. Depends on your heat break, if the heat climbs to high up the heat break it starts to melt before hitting the hot end and causes jams. I ramp the temp up when I print 70+mm/s
How do you deal with flexibles bending during retraction and causing strings and blobs? This is in regards to a Bowden of course.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → Buying a Davinci Pro 1.0 or should i wait for 3 in 1 to be release?
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