Re: DaVinci Junior cartridge reset
I have the firmware 2.2.0
I have the good password but i can not modifie the page 08 0A 0B
See the image bellow
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing Hacks & Mods → DaVinci Junior cartridge reset
I have the firmware 2.2.0
I have the good password but i can not modifie the page 08 0A 0B
See the image bellow
If it can help anyone here is the link how i find information of NTAG213 ....
Yes yours static lock for pages 8 to 15 have been set to logic 1 and able Read only
But you still can reset spool to 100 or 200 m
No i have done that it dont match!
If you want make a test and you have a tag.
Take your tag in page 2 With the the value in post 651 (Screenshot in the post):write this value......
if its ok try yet to go to page 08 0A AB and write another value .And say me if you can modifie this value!
But I've say your tag is dead!!!!!
I tell you that you can not change pages 08, 0A and 0B but still you can change page 14, Is must be same as page 0A 0r 0B
Yes ive do that but the printer dont recognized the spool !

hi how can is possible to calculate the password ?
Hi there
I'v show this UID - PWD data to a guy that works with data analysis related things and he said that it could be a modified version of the CRC32 algorithm for generating the PWD, using the UID as a checksum.
Maybe that helps!
Can someone help me with resetting please?
im a noob with this.
Page : Data
[00] : 043F7FCC
[01] : 22973C80
[02] : 09480000
[03] : E1101200
[04] : 0103A00C
[05] : 340300FE
[06] : 00000000
[07] : 00000000
Hello,
I have try with this hardware :
Arduino uno :
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/UNO-R3-AT … 9d2709c07c
RC522 :
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/With-trac … 210cb77d3c
And i read this :
Card UID: 04 D6 BB 2A 97 3C 80
Card SAK: 00
PICC type: MIFARE Ultralight or Ultralight C
Page 0 1 2 3
0 04 D6 BB E1
1 2A 97 3C 80
2 01 48 00 00
3 E1 10 12 00
4 01 03 A0 0C
5 34 03 00 FE
6 00 00 00 00
7 00 00 00 00
Can someone help me with resetting please?
im a noob with this.Page : Data
[00] : 043F7FCC
[01] : 22973C80
[02] : 09480000
[03] : E1101200
[04] : 0103A00C
[05] : 340300FE
[06] : 00000000
[07] : 00000000
PM greatone76
Greetings,
I'm reading this forum for a while and I am Jr owner too.
I have written little script for those who has firmware < 2.0.2
(= Base64 encoding)
Actually I don't know how new compressed method work I've noticed that it's on encrypted zip, isn't it?
I'd love to contribute but order bus pirate is not possible at this time. I have only Arduino without anything...
Sorry for my English I am not native speaker and I'm still learning...
Edit: I'm not sure if it's necessary to push .3w through XYZ ware to printer or printer is capable to print this file directly from SD card.
So, is there any effort being made for repetier pinout at all? Defeating the NFC cards is all well and good, but not really a definitive solution. Still need extra hardware, NFC tags, XYZWare or encoder, and still no fine controls (at least, not without extraneous efforts). Whole lot of effort for minimal returns IMHO.
For those just getting involved and not up to speed yet, the Jr uses the same chip as the DaVinci 1.0 and there is already a repetier port working on it. We just need a pin trace on the mainboard to put in the pins.h file and presto! No more XYZWare, no encoder scripts, no NFC of any kind. Use whatever filament you want with no countdowns or resets necessary. Use whichever slicer suits you best. Fine tune your Jr for performance beyond the entry-level, "plug-and-play", factory ability. Pick your temps. Add a heated bed ( the board has a connector for it).
@zafan: the printer will print .3w files directly from software or from the SDCard.
Doc there is a thread in this sub forum where there are a few guys looking at it, i think they could use more help.
sadly for that effort i like the xyz software so i'm all about kicking the drm stuff.
I think that this NFC stuff is pretty easy to fix in a new printer firmware update, they just have to set the NFC bit-lock to 1 when the spool goes empty and you won't be able to write the NFC resetting the value again, or maybe saving the NFC id (maybe a thumbprint, serial number, checksum or whatever) into memory or something, don't know. So i think the best we can do is to clone the tag into another, and use that tag as a clone or something.
Now, we should put our efforts into porting Repetier to the Jr... Whatever, this is a nice work.
disasm: yeah there are many ways to change the nfc but there are no magic ntag213 cards so cloning requiers hardware and coding skills.
also one thing you should keep in mind is that what ever xyz does they need to do it in a way that limits our efforts but also lets real cards function ie. the manufacture date on my newest spool has a manufacture date of 2014 so they cant just alter the pwd/pack algo.
but they can ofcourse as you say make the cards readonly whey they reach 0m.
and a workarround for that is well just buy ntags and create your own.
the pass can be sniffed with a logic analyser, so that just leaves the 4 byte pack to be calculated.
ok i had an error when i tried to reset my card back to 300m for the 2nd time the jr would not read it. so here how i fixed it set it back to 200m and set back to black put it in the machine goto spool info it read right then i changed back to 300m and changed the color and it back to 300m
disasm: yeah there are many ways to change the nfc but there are no magic ntag213 cards so cloning requiers hardware and coding skills.
also one thing you should keep in mind is that what ever xyz does they need to do it in a way that limits our efforts but also lets real cards function ie. the manufacture date on my newest spool has a manufacture date of 2014 so they cant just alter the pwd/pack algo.
but they can ofcourse as you say make the cards readonly whey they reach 0m.
and a workarround for that is well just buy ntags and create your own.
the pass can be sniffed with a logic analyser, so that just leaves the 4 byte pack to be calculated.
Whatever, im staying with my printer firmware version. Updating is not an option.
@DocD7: I meant Base64 encoded on your own. Specially my printer with firmware 2.0.4 doesn't accept this code and I have to push it through XYZ ware app and cable to print model. Unfortunately, this is the only solution for my printer.
I was hoping to get an instructable set up, but though there might be others who would want an easier way then arduino sketches to read and write. I have found a piece of software that works well with the arduino and makes it easy to read and write to the tag. Also very easy to input the key. There are also a ton of YouTubes on how to set up the arduino and nfc chip, download the software and set up things like the ex file on the arduino. Money well spent if you ask me.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/322002837986?_t … EBIDX%3AIT
Links to some of the YouTube videos that are relevant to this project.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_Vu_8bgjPA
Has any one run into this I started using hatchbox pla and if I print with a brim the head will start to hit the print after a few layers. I tried level it using the 2 papers but it still does it.
I would adjust your z height extra high. My guess is that it is over extruding cause you don't have full layer heights and it catches up with you. you might also try a higher temp. The pla coming out of the extruder might be too stiff might be a part of the problem.
I would adjust your z height extra high. My guess is that it is over extruding cause you don't have full layer heights and it catches up with you. you might also try a higher temp. The pla coming out of the extruder might be too stiff might be a part of the problem.
i had tried putting the z height up high it still seemed to mess up until it got to high. i just tried running it at 215c and it seems to be printing fine i will update wen its done
thanks
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