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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → frustrated
i have assidously followed the guide
i've installed the software
i had originally panned to have it on another computer but i couldn't find the montor power cords
i have been here for 5 hours trying to get this verchact system working the software indicates it is connected to the printer and yet it is not
is anyone familiar with repetier? and have some time tohelp me outon this?
I switched over to repetier a little over a month ago on all my machines, I find it works easier the pronterface 
So what is yours doing/not doing?
you say it says it's connected and it isn't... sounds like the FTDI drivers are not installed properly...
Make sure you're on the SD3 repetier package they have to on software page. Also make sure you have set the COM port (Config -> Printer Settings -> Port of SD) and have the printer set to "Solidoodle3." I remember there was a guy who had a problem where the COM port was set the the Virtual Printer.
i think i have it workign now brett thanks for the help sigh had to track down what com port and where to put it
and now the plastic isn't sticking so i'm headed to pick up some hair spray any particular kind i should get?
I don't know what it is and I hope I'm wrong, but I have a feeling you're going to be a hard person to please.
lol i am veryhard to please and a closet perfectionist as long as i do not have to be perfect but no i'm trying to read through everything and get the printer bankg on perfect
I've had success with two random ones. Cleaning finger prints and oils off the kapton with acetone will also help a great deal.
cmetzel lol
I've had success with two random ones. Cleaning finger prints and oils off the kapton with acetone will also help a great deal.
What he said!
Esp if you move toward slic3r you might have further success decreasing 1st layer print time and/or increasing 1st layer extrude multiplier. That helped me- and continues to. However if you're running pronterface/skeinforge, I didn't have that trouble when it printed a raft.
If acetone wipe doesn't help, and even the raft isn't sticking (despite waiting for bed temp to be reached), your Z offset and/or bed level might be off. You sir gotta get up & printing, let us know how we can help!
well i got it to print some chamber flags i had to use the hair spray but it went pretty well
Something I've noticed with RH is if you turn the printer off and then on while it is connected, RH will no longer communicate with it even if it appears to be connected. You have to quit (at which point it will crash) and then start up again before it will connect to the printer for real.
well i got ambitious last night for a large print. and then went to bed i woke up this morning to a ball of cotton candy it looked likeit did pretty well for the first few hours but after that shrug i wish i knew
There is a very wise old saying i shall follow
"if at first you do not succed hide all evidence you tried"
That being said i hope they hurry up with havign a kit for making a filament maker hint hint.
my observation is that a heated build area is almost a must where i am so i will be getting one put together over the next day or two. i've noticed the builds will reach a hight of approximately 3/4 of an inch to 1 inch and then turn into a fuzzy mess.
Don't get rid of the evidence too quick... post up a pic of it (not the cotton candy) the part you were trying to print maybe we can spot why it failed and help prevent that from happening again
i'll get a picture later this afternoon
i have succesfully printed a m 1911 barrel wrench and am now trying for the miami dolphns logo at .40 theoriginal size to see how it does.
I still need to dial in the printer some but as i saidi have made a few observations.
1 it needs to be enclosed
2 bed needs to be wiped down with acetone when you get it. hair spray helps a ton
3 expect to have to tinker some
4 gettign the filament working right is very important
5 save the scrap for recycling
That Miami dolphins thing isn't going to print well if you're using the one I modelled. I just whipped it up to see if I could do it, but some of the slots and details are too small to work well at the printer resolution we have. That said, I'd love to see a picture of the attempt.
well i got ambitious last night for a large print. and then went to bed i woke up this morning to a ball of cotton candy it looked likeit did pretty well for the first few hours but after that shrug i wish i knew
Sounds like the part is not staying stuck to the bed. I adjust my Z level using a piece of paper, and then make the bed about 1/4 turn (of the Z screw, on the back wall) tighter to the print head. I print a brim and also print the first layer at 1/4 speed. I'm using glass and hairspray, but the kapton worked very well (until I noticed that the bed was warped). Tall and thin parts do not print as easily as wider parts: you need a reasonable base to allow the part to stay stuck to the bed.
That Miami dolphins thing isn't going to print well if you're using the one I modelled. I just whipped it up to see if I could do it, but some of the slots and details are too small to work well at the printer resolution we have. That said, I'd love to see a picture of the attempt.
Is that a challenge?
cmetzel wrote:That Miami dolphins thing isn't going to print well if you're using the one I modelled. I just whipped it up to see if I could do it, but some of the slots and details are too small to work well at the printer resolution we have. That said, I'd love to see a picture of the attempt.
Is that a challenge?
It is now.
Manx how flat is your bed? I played with my bed level as well and printed the dial indicator holder. Looks like the center of my bed is + 2.5mm higher than the rest of my bed running along Y axis. Going to get glass cut tonight and level everything again in hope that I can overcome the warped bed.
Manx how flat is your bed? I played with my bed level as well and printed the dial indicator holder. Looks like the center of my bed is + 2.5mm higher than the rest of my bed running along Y axis. Going to get glass cut tonight and level everything again in hope that I can overcome the warped bed.
Parts *should* stick even on less than flat beds.
Parts *should* stick even on less than flat beds.
I don't see how this can possibly be true for a deviation of 2.5 mm, given that the layer heights are 0.3mm. That is a deviation of over 8 layers. That is, you would be printing the first 8 layers into thin air.
i have not leveled the bed it was pretty level to begin with but soemthign wierd is going on theextruder will reverse the filament out and it will pull it in then it just stopsbut it willstillextrude thefilamen soi'm wondering if my tinkering losened soemthign up it shouldn'thave does anyone have an idea?
i have not leveled the bed it was pretty level to begin with but soemthign wierd is going on theextruder will reverse the filament out and it will pull it in then it just stopsbut it willstillextrude thefilamen soi'm wondering if my tinkering losened soemthign up it shouldn'thave does anyone have an idea?
I have a similar issue with RH... i abandoned it for the moment, but I will try again soon.
unless someone knows what's up...
Was that happening using Slic3r in RH or Skeinforge? Skeinforge as installed with RH doesn't have a Solidoodle profile.
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