I really was looking at the CTC myself, but from everything I read, the eBay ones going for $880 are actually either refurbs, returns, or otherwise previously used. Some people have complained about some of the parts not working or missing and the company basically is not very forthcoming with support.
The second reason I balked, is because the current version no longer comes with the FormLabs firmware, so it can't use the PreForm software. Instead, you use a modified version of Cura, which is fine, but believe me, the PreForm software was designed for SLA from the onset, it's not just a regular slicer with a few options for SLA printing. So I chose to spend a few more bucks and buy a used Form 1+ instead.
I suggest you download the PreForm software and play with it. It's the full version and eerything works, except you can't send the model to any printer other than a FormLabs.
Regarding UV curing. There are a lot of factors, like how old you resin is, the type of resin you're using, how "printable" you model is, and how it was positioned for printing, that will determine the level of curing your model will endure during print. Sometimes it would be helpful to have a curing oven, or a UV laser (for faster curing). But the Sun will be your best curing oven. Take the piece and put it in the sun for an hour or so, and it will be cured faster than any oven can do. I bought one of those $70 sterilizer ovens, and it does cure, but it takes about 3-4 hours depending on the model.
Also no amount of external curing is going to cure the trapped resin inside you model unless you're printing in some kind of clear resin. That's because the wall thickness of your model (about 2-3mm) will prevent the UV light from getting there. For this reason, your supposed to put drain holes in your model before you start printing.
One of the things I found when you print a cavity without any drain holes (especially if the cavity is large), is that if you let it sit there for a while (lets say you let it print overnight), the cavity can burst, or get a blister (usually in one of the thinner walls). I don't know if it has something to do with trapped gasses or some like it, but I had one burst on me, and it looked like it got show with hollow-point bullet.
Ever since then, I always put a hole in every cavity. I used to put rather large holes (2-2.5mm diameter), but found that 1.5mm is more than adequate.
Last but not least, I ordered a 1/2 litter bottle of MakerJuice SF in gray to try. On the FormLabs forum, the opinions on MakerJuice are all over the place, but the one constant is that it's more resilient and slightly more flexible than the FormLabs resin, which can be extremely brittle. I dropped a piece on cement and it shattered like glass.
As soon as I get a chance to test the MakerJuice, I'll post some impressions. The cost for a liter is $65.00, and $39 for 1/2 liter. The problem is the shipping costs, they're pretty high. I later found that you can buy the MakerJuice stuff from MatterHackers, which while the charge you $3 more, they will ship the stuff for free, so you come out cheaper in the end.
That's about it.
Oh, one last thing, I got one of those UV LED strips (15ft, 600 LED), and did a DIY oven, and it didn't work for SH*T. After leaving the part in overnight, it was still tacky and relatively soft. The oven I bought uses a Fluorescent UV lamp.
To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods, Printrbot Simple Maker Ed., FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.