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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → Replacing head on Duo with MK8 type
Hello,
I am considering replacing one of the heads on my Duo with an MK8 type, trying to resolve the head getting plugged issue and maybe getting a head with a teflon sleeve.
Did anyone try to replace the head with something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pc-Makerbo … 867642715l
What is the value of the Davinci thermistor ? 100k ?
What voltage is the heater ? 12v or 24v ? 40w ?
Thanks,
Thermistor is 100k.
Heater is 12v and 40w (at least I think it's 40w).
The stock heater can be used in the E3D, not sure about the Mk8 though.
I've heard of people using the stock thermistor too although I went with the one in the E3D kit.
Hello,
I am considering replacing one of the heads on my Duo with an MK8 type, trying to resolve the head getting plugged issue and maybe getting a head with a teflon sleeve.
Did anyone try to replace the head with something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pc-Makerbo … 867642715l
What is the value of the Davinci thermistor ? 100k ?
What voltage is the heater ? 12v or 24v ? 40w ?
Thanks,
Make sure the one you get is the thermistor model and not the thermocouple. Only a few machines use thermocouple which I am in favor of for higher temps. But thermocouples will not work on your machine.
Yes, I will get a thermistor 100k, 12V 40W .4 mm type.
I believe something is screwed up in the left head of the Duo. No matter how much I clean it (I completely dissasembled it, including the heater block and heat pipe) it gets blocked after a while. I will replace it temporarily with a new spare I have to test if the same happens with various filaments (ABS, HIPS, Cicoloy home made crap) with temps between 220-240C.
The filament swells in the pipe (as if the temp was too high) and then I have to dissasemble it, take the pipe apart, drill the filament out (will not slide out), clean the inside of the heater block and drill the nozzle with a .4 mm drill. Very weird. I checked if there may be scratches on the inside of the heat pipe or debris, but all looks fine. I am thinking to hook up a 12V source to the old heater block to be able to clean it better when it would be at about 230C, maybe there is cooked plastic inside that I cannot see.
But what I really want is a more modular, teflon insulated head as the MK8, eventually replacing both heads.
I ran into similar trouble with my stock hotend.
It became very unreliable, even with ABS after around 150 hours printing.
No amount of cleaning made much difference.
I gave up on it and fitted an E3D Lite (cheaper than full fat E3D but limited to 240°C) which is producing fantastic prints and has so far been 100% reliable with every type of filament I've thrown at it.
Can't recommend it highly enough.
I ran into similar trouble with my stock hotend.
It became very unreliable, even with ABS after around 150 hours printing.
No amount of cleaning made much difference.
I gave up on it and fitted an E3D Lite (cheaper than full fat E3D but limited to 240°C) which is producing fantastic prints and has so far been 100% reliable with every type of filament I've thrown at it.
Can't recommend it highly enough.
I KNOW ! Drives me nuts. I can almost "feel" that somehow maybe the inner walls of the tube are having microscopic abrasions that somehow create friction that prevent the filament from sliding. The friction force is so high that pulling on the filament will break it but will not budge. I believe that even 5 mm of stuck filament generate enough friction that it cannot be pushed out, it has to be drilled.
I am trying out a process of elimination waiting to get the MK8 head delivered from China. First is to try an identical new original left Duo head to see if it is head related. If that works, I will swap in the old heat tube into the new heat block/nozzle to test the internal abrasions theory while also jacking with the old nozzle to see if I can clean it better.
I can hear fans running, but I did not check if BOTH run (I believe there are 1 per head, would be funny if the left one died and I did not notice, maybe that is why the feed tube would get too hot). Hmmmm.
But when the filament is cold is slides perfectly. temperature is good, fans work, yet it swells and gets stuck. Maybe it sucked moisture, I will also try brand new filament that was sealed in the original bag.
I have to check how many hours of printing I have.
I ran into similar trouble with my stock hotend.
It became very unreliable, even with ABS after around 150 hours printing.
No amount of cleaning made much difference.
I gave up on it and fitted an E3D Lite (cheaper than full fat E3D but limited to 240°C) which is producing fantastic prints and has so far been 100% reliable with every type of filament I've thrown at it.
Can't recommend it highly enough.
What printed parts did you use for the conversion? There are a few on Thingiverse and I have the same E3d lite.
Thanks
Scott
415 hrs runtime 
Fans work properly.
Time to change the head.
Head replaced. So far so good.
An interesting observation is the difference in size and shape of the old vs new heads. I would say the thermal mass of the new head would be almost half of the old one and it heats a lot quicker. Maybe better temperature control and less heat creep so maybe that is why they claim it can print PLA ? I guess I will test that later.
Check out the pictures, note also the much more pointed nozzle. Interesting, maybe it will be worthwhile to change the right side head also.
scobo wrote:I ran into similar trouble with my stock hotend.
It became very unreliable, even with ABS after around 150 hours printing.
No amount of cleaning made much difference.
I gave up on it and fitted an E3D Lite (cheaper than full fat E3D but limited to 240°C) which is producing fantastic prints and has so far been 100% reliable with every type of filament I've thrown at it.
Can't recommend it highly enough.What printed parts did you use for the conversion? There are a few on Thingiverse and I have the same E3d lite.
Thanks
Scott
Hi Scott (my name's Scott too by the way).
I went with this mod .... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608560
I didn't bother removing the carriage though. I just went in from the front with a dremel to cut the new space for the stepper and drilled the holes.
It was a bit fiddly, not much room in there, but a lot less hassle than removing the carriage.
But when the filament is cold is slides perfectly. temperature is good, fans work, yet it swells and gets stuck. Maybe it sucked moisture, I will also try brand new filament that was sealed in the original bag.
Actually, I totally forgot about moisture.
I had a problem with that shortly after fitting the E3D. Couldn't get any of my PLA to print.
Thought I'd made a balls-up fitting the E3D so I stripped it down and checked everything but still had issues.
So I stuck the spools of PLA in an airing cupboard overnight to see if the problem was moisture and sure enough, they printed great the following day !
Head replaced. So far so good.
An interesting observation is the difference in size and shape of the old vs new heads. I would say the thermal mass of the new head would be almost half of the old one and it heats a lot quicker. Maybe better temperature control and less heat creep so maybe that is why they claim it can print PLA ? I guess I will test that later.
Check out the pictures, note also the much more pointed nozzle. Interesting, maybe it will be worthwhile to change the right side head also.
Is that the MK8 hotend ?
Looks nice, and I see you're still using the stock thermistor.
n2stuff wrote:scobo wrote:I ran into similar trouble with my stock hotend.
It became very unreliable, even with ABS after around 150 hours printing.
No amount of cleaning made much difference.
I gave up on it and fitted an E3D Lite (cheaper than full fat E3D but limited to 240°C) which is producing fantastic prints and has so far been 100% reliable with every type of filament I've thrown at it.
Can't recommend it highly enough.What printed parts did you use for the conversion? There are a few on Thingiverse and I have the same E3d lite.
Thanks
ScottHi Scott (my name's Scott too by the way).
I went with this mod .... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608560
I didn't bother removing the carriage though. I just went in from the front with a dremel to cut the new space for the stepper and drilled the holes.
It was a bit fiddly, not much room in there, but a lot less hassle than removing the carriage.
Hi Scott
This is a remake that I am going to use http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:707530
Scott
Hi Scott
This is a remake that I am going to use http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:707530Scott
I actually printed that one too but it I couldn't get it to fit without taking the carriage off.
To be honest, the one I posted a link to is very secure but if you'd rather use the other one then go for it. 
Head replaced. So far so good.
An interesting observation is the difference in size and shape of the old vs new heads. I would say the thermal mass of the new head would be almost half of the old one and it heats a lot quicker. Maybe better temperature control and less heat creep so maybe that is why they claim it can print PLA ? I guess I will test that later.
Check out the pictures, note also the much more pointed nozzle. Interesting, maybe it will be worthwhile to change the right side head also.
Have you got a link for that hotend please. I have problems with my left one so I don't use it anymore.
And your one looks like a easy swop over. Nice mod dude.
n2stuff wrote:Hi Scott
This is a remake that I am going to use http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:707530Scott
I actually printed that one too but it I couldn't get it to fit without taking the carriage off.
To be honest, the one I posted a link to is very secure but if you'd rather use the other one then go for it.
I knew I had to take the carriage off. So I will go with the one you used. Cool I will get it printed out so then I have a two to play with. I am also going to install the X belt tension part with a ball bearing one I printed.
kszwab wrote:Head replaced. So far so good.
An interesting observation is the difference in size and shape of the old vs new heads. I would say the thermal mass of the new head would be almost half of the old one and it heats a lot quicker. Maybe better temperature control and less heat creep so maybe that is why they claim it can print PLA ? I guess I will test that later.
Check out the pictures, note also the much more pointed nozzle. Interesting, maybe it will be worthwhile to change the right side head also.
Have you got a link for that hotend please. I have problems with my left one so I don't use it anymore.
And your one looks like a easy swop over. Nice mod dude.
That is a stock hotend for the XYZ 1.0A it looks like mine.
deuse wrote:kszwab wrote:Head replaced. So far so good.
An interesting observation is the difference in size and shape of the old vs new heads. I would say the thermal mass of the new head would be almost half of the old one and it heats a lot quicker. Maybe better temperature control and less heat creep so maybe that is why they claim it can print PLA ? I guess I will test that later.
Check out the pictures, note also the much more pointed nozzle. Interesting, maybe it will be worthwhile to change the right side head also.
Have you got a link for that hotend please. I have problems with my left one so I don't use it anymore.
And your one looks like a easy swop over. Nice mod dude.That is a stock hotend for the XYZ 1.0A it looks like mine.
Really ?
I thought he was fitting an mk8 ??? (Confused)
n2stuff wrote:deuse wrote:Have you got a link for that hotend please. I have problems with my left one so I don't use it anymore.
And your one looks like a easy swop over. Nice mod dude.That is a stock hotend for the XYZ 1.0A it looks like mine.
Really ?
I thought he was fitting an mk8 ??? (Confused)
Yeah, I've seen those but the OP suggested he was fitting an mk8.
I'm sure he'll clarify shortly.
n2stuff wrote:deuse wrote:Have you got a link for that hotend please. I have problems with my left one so I don't use it anymore.
And your one looks like a easy swop over. Nice mod dude.That is a stock hotend for the XYZ 1.0A it looks like mine.
Really ?
I thought he was fitting an mk8 ??? (Confused)
The left side is the Mk8. Look close and you will see the heater block is square and the nozzle has more of a point. All he did was used a Mk8 hot end meaning hot parts only. The rest is the stock extruder cold parts.
That's what I thought. It doesn't have the little metal stub the auto cal uses either.
Be interested to hear how it performs.
That's not a V8. That's the upgraded hotend for the Duo 2.0. I just looked at mine and it's the same.
That's not a V8. That's the upgraded hotend for the Duo 2.0. I just looked at mine and it's the same.
A V8 ???
Think you've got the wrong forum mate. 
you dont keep a v8 in your print room?
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