1 Topic by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2016-01-17 09:21:10)

  • n2ri
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Topic: best way to clean hobbed feed gear and idler on an SD2 acrylic puzzle

can I just loosen tension nut and slide washers and spring off screw then open/lay idler arm down and clean hobbed gear and idler of excess plastic dust? or some other way? my prev roll was too thick and got chewed alot feeding now new roll slips sometimes feeding tension spring is near maxed with very little slack and gear teeth seem full of plastic. I also want to mark a red spot on idler so I can tell better when its not moving/feeding. cant find topic or video on this. also should I oil idler bearing?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

2 Reply by widespreaddeadhead

  • widespreaddeadhead
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Re: best way to clean hobbed feed gear and idler on an SD2 acrylic puzzle

I would use a can of compressed air to blow that dust out, or a brush with plastic bristles.

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3 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: best way to clean hobbed feed gear and idler on an SD2 acrylic puzzle

+1 to widespread
If it is Nylon, chances are you will need a toothbrush or something similar. However, most PLA and ABS shavings can be blown off with air.

Before you have a full blown nightmare, print a new extruder. The MK5 is proven to work with the stock PEEK hotend and makes maintenance much easier. I know you have been having issues with your machine, and if you put this off, you may eventually break the acrylic and napalm your printer. Better to have it and not need it.
Also, When switching between filaments, if one is significantly larger than the other (0.1+/-) you want to adjust your tension arm. If your extruder is expecting a smaller diameter, too much material will be forced down and eventually jam. You can make all the software adjustments you want, but the spring is just a spring and cannot be commanded on what to expect. Too much tension will cause the drive gear to chew through the line....I think this may be the cause of your current dilemma.

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4 Reply by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2016-01-17 20:28:35)

  • n2ri
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Re: best way to clean hobbed feed gear and idler on an SD2 acrylic puzzle

I printed all the Lawsy stuff last year.

and yes the fat Octave roll (between 1.79mm and 2.01mm had lots of chewing. thats why I need to get a brush in to it to get teeth cleaned out. was just wondering how hard that spring will be to compress when reassembling tensioner. I already blew out all I can but even idler wheel has dust packed on it and cant clean all that whith it assembled. and can I oil the idler bearing?

I did it and oiled bearing then dabbed with tissue any excess oil and bearing will spin a couple times when flicked now. reassembled and ready to test printing. not much stuck in geared teeth just a couple hard specks on roller which may have let it slip sometimes.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs