Da Vinci 1.0 PRO Unboxing & Impressions

You extruded 20" of filament at 0.4mm diameter which equates to about 1" of filament at 1.75mm diameter volume wise. Not that big of a waste as you think...

Software wise, no problems eh? Try setting the bed temperature above 90C. It's max is supposed to be 110C. But you can't get there.

Hope you enjoy your no wires Wifi connection. Wifi takes at least twice as long to transfer the data to be printed. In Windows the transfer rate is about 18-25KB/sec max. Takes almost 3 hours to transfer a complex large (160M+) 3w project file. And that's after it's been sliced and already saved as a 3w. And on an N connection which should be able to get up to 450Mb/sec on a 3x3 MIMO. But the Pro only has a single antenna so it's probably limited to 150Mb/sec. But it doesn't appear to get even that transfer rate.

See my post on the extruder mod I made. The new design is not without issues.

It doesn't always do the test  line. Not when printing bigger things. Even if then is still room there it does not do one.

Hard to tell from your picture how good the heart really is. Really don't need to see that much of the bed. A close up would have been nice. Any little nibs/defects on the heart ridges? Mine have them. In what appear to be the same spots on 4 hearts. Not sure if indeed they are defects or part of the design.

Hello all first of all.
I've just unboxed my 1.0 Pro and i have some doubt.
I have to inform you that I'm not very skilled on 3D printing, so my questions and doubts could be silly.
I used a XYZ 1.0 for a month before getting the PRO and i'm finding some good and bad differences.
I appreciate the charging and the leveling systems, but i don't like the alu bed instead of glass.
With a perfectly cleaned glass i didn't need to apply tape or glue to stick the objects on the bed and the lower surface resulted glossy and flat.
With the alu bed it is very difficult to keep the items sticked on the bed.
I've tried the tape included in the printer box and it initially seemed to work, but at the 2nd printing the objects start to lift in the corners and the printing failed.
I tried to use the glue directly on the alu surface (on the glass it worked quite well) but the result was awful.
Using the glue on the tape works a little bit more but with incostant results.
So i tied to use a normal painting tape: same result, it initially works, but when the height of the object grows, the external edges start to detach from the plate.
I didnt tried other sticking methods as kapton tape or spray glue: I hope you suggest me some other solutions.
I also notice that after the startup printing (when it prints a double row on the right side of the pad before starting the job) and while moving fast without printing, the material still flow out form the nozzle leaving unwanted stripes on the pad.
Are there some parameters to change to avoid this?
I'm using ABS original XYZ materials with standard parameters.
Can you suggest me best parameters to avoid problems?
Thank you all for support.

First off, never print directly to your aluminum bed, the surface is not perfectly smooth like glass is, and your prints will either not stick at all or become somewhat embedded in the ridges.  Use tape on the surface.  Blue painters tape for PLA, and standard masking tape for ABS.

I suggest replacing the tape every print, it should work fine that way.

If you want that smooth surface again, you can use kapton tape with your ABS.  Its a little more expensive, but is smooth and stands up well to the heat.

ABS does have a tendency to shrink when cooling, that's why corners lift sometimes.  A tiny dab of the glue stick on the tape will fix that issue, however the glue stick and tape are a bad mix as the heat causes the glue to sink into the making tape and hardens there, which can make getting your print off the bed quite a challenge.  At least you don't have to worry about the glass cracking

I used the ducky blue painters tape for a bit when printing in ABS with a combination of either glue stick or aqua net(hairspray worked better) and although it stuck to print amazingly well, the adhesive of the tape itself was lacking and if the piece decided it needed to warp it would pull the tape off the bed to accomplish it. So maybe a better tape would have adhered better to the bed and kept the edges down. I dunno. What I do know is the kapton tape does a much better job than either the included blue surface tape or the blue tape I purchased. But when printing double sided objects that lay flat on the kapton tape, the one side is so wonderfully smooth it makes the topside look like crap. Lol. Wish I could flip it like w pancake when one side was finished. Lol

I also don't like the tape on bed method, and have changed to an 8 x 8" mirror I found.  Its perfectly flat, and I have tried glue sticks, hairspray, abs slurry, but the best way I have found to keep objects from unsticking, or curling is to use some Oatey PVC, ABS glue found at the hardware store.  I use the clear, the kind with the little brush inside the can.  Usually used to glue PVC pipe together.  This stuff works great, just spread a coat on surface, and print.  Will not lift, and comes off great after the bed cools a little.  A lot easier and neater than ABS slurry, which also works well, just messy.  Give it a shot!

Before you go to that trouble, try using Kapton tape and glue stick; I'm printing ABS with no issues using that.

If you do decide to change, then you MUST use borosilicate glass; its a tiny bit more expensive, but much stronger and should never crack.

Actually default parameters, using standard XYZ abs.

Yeah, it is Oatey Clear Pvc Abs all purpose cement.  Can says for PVC, CPVC, and ABS.  Check at Ace or Home Depot or any hardware store.  Note: Don't use this directly on the aluminum bed, use on glass on top or mirror.