You are not logged in. Please login or register.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → electronics help
Hi all,
I'm new here and I haven't been able to find info on this on the forum....probably because it's a very silly question.
I can follow the wiring diagram and make sure I connect the right things together. However, I don't know how to physically connect the wires. Can I just twist them together, or do they need to be capped? Wrapped in electrical tape?
I'm a chemist using this for research purposes (hence my lack of experience).
Thanks in advance!
You shouldn't need to twist anything together, or make any sort of junctions. For example one wire of the heater, the fan's black wire, the negative of the stall protection and the negative of the power supply all connect to Pin 10 on the PID controller, so run all 4 wires to the screw terminal at Pin 10 and terminate there.
Thank you! Another question: do I cut off the connector for the fan so that I can connect each wire individually? I don't see how else I make the connections, but I'm hesitant to cut it off in case I'm wrong.
That's what I did. Worked fine.
Yes, you cut the connector off. Sorry for not making that clear.
Thanks, all!
A few more questions:
-my heater wires do not reach the inside of the enclosure (using the laser-cut enclosure kit) to connect to the PID. The fan wires don't reach either. Is it likely then that I've done something wrong, or is it possible they are in fact too short? I can upload pictures if necessary.
- Another connections question: when I connect to the stall protection board, am I just putting the wire through the appropriate hole on the edge of the board and twisting it back around itself? How should I secure the stall protection board in the enclosure?
Ironically, we ordered our kit early in order to get ahead of the game, since ordering stuff for us takes forever. It was maybe a month before version 2.0 came out. If we had procrastinated a bit we would've gotten the newer, more dummy (me)- proof version. This has been a fun adventure though. 
Also, Tim: any plans to release a fully-assembled version? I know this involves a lot more planning/staff/resources so it would be a big jump, but I think you might have a fair number of people like my group: not hobbyists or classic "makers" but researchers/chemists who want to use the Filastruder as part of polymer research.
-my heater wires do not reach the inside of the enclosure (using the laser-cut enclosure kit) to connect to the PID. The fan wires don't reach either. Is it likely then that I've done something wrong, or is it possible they are in fact too short? I can upload pictures if necessary.
That's normal, you can extend with the wire you've cut off from the power supply.
- Another connections question: when I connect to the stall protection board, am I just putting the wire through the appropriate hole on the edge of the board and twisting it back around itself? How should I secure the stall protection board in the enclosure?)
Most folks just drill holes and attach it on the outside. Here's an example:
http://www.soliforum.com/post/111570/#p111570
Also, Tim: any plans to release a fully-assembled version? I know this involves a lot more planning/staff/resources so it would be a big jump, but I think you might have a fair number of people like my group: not hobbyists or classic "makers" but researchers/chemists who want to use the Filastruder as part of polymer research.
Its not off the table, but I do have some reservations - providing fully assembled changes the willing audience from makers to folks that might expect it to work just like a toaster oven or other appliance. Polymer extrusion isn't quite so simple, so I'm afraid of customers having an unrealistic expectation. I'd also need to look into the regulatory concerns of providing a fully assembled product.
Okay, that makes me feel better. Should the extension connection point be taped or capped?
I obviously can't speak for everybody, but I know that around my workplace (R&D type folks, not a company trying to do large-scale production), people are generally willing to experiment with a new piece of equipment. A learning curve is assumed. My group has a couple pieces of equipment that are basically in beta-stage, and we just keep in touch with the manufacturer if we have problems. I understand your reservations though-- it is obviously a huge step from providing RTA kits. Just curious!
Butt splice or solder + heatshrink are preferred. If those aren't available, a wire nut is OK. if that's not available, you can twist together and tape the connection, but that's not very reliable if a wire gets snagged on something.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → electronics help
Powered by PunBB, supported by Informer Technologies, Inc.
