Finaly fitted my E3D hotend (Page 1 of 2)

In your FFF settings screen, go to the G-Code tab. At the lower left corner you'll see Global G-Code Offsets.  Add a positive value to your Z-axis, whatever the thickness of the blue tape is.

I would simply adjust the height of the bed with the adjusters under the bed as the adjustment won't be very much.

Well, it would at least be good to call it a clone in your post. Implying it is a genuine E3D is a slap in the face of the guys that actually produce innovation in 3D printing, as opposed to the companies in China that do nothing but copy the hard work of others.

Additionally buying clones helps put those innovators out of business. Brian Reifsnyder, inventor and producer of the J-head hotend, has already stopped research and development on new hotends as a result of the Chinese cloners. He also said he plans to close up shop at the end of the year, for the same reason.

The clones are also a violation of the open source license that E3D releases their product under. Buying clones will eventually push more and more companies to move to closed source as a means of protecting their work.

You may think I have a conflict of interest as I sell E3D hotends. I don't care if you buy a hotend from me or not, or if you buy an E3D hotend at all. Just sharing as someone that has been 3D printing for a long time now, and seen brilliant minds come and go because China churns these (very variable in quality) copies out paying people pennies an hour.

Once your Z height is set it is the same for PLA or ABS.. Should be around .15mm for a .3mm layer height. You should not need to calibrate the height when change types or rolls. You WILL and MUST calibrate the temp and feed multiplier for each and every roll you change out. Even the same color by the same vendor. This is common practice and we all deal with it.

He's saying he needs to add the thickness of the painters tape when using PLA, but is not using the painters tape for ABS.

Well see that's where your issue is.. I use hairspray on hot glass and no matter what material I print it sticks then just lifts off once cool. Using hair spray or even glue stick on glass eliminates the need to adjust between changing filament types.

I find the glue stick works great with PLA once it's gone dry and slightly rough after a few applications.
Seems to grip the rough surface better.

What kind of temperature do you guys use when printing PLA and use the gluestick?

60 for PLA with glue.

Thanx guys! Im running my first real PLA print now and it seems to come out damn good

Using blue painters tape and ofset 0.2 on the z-axis for a test.

I did download and print a coolingfanmount but there aint any airflow through it =/
I will add a fan without any channels that preventing the airflow next time..

This is my first PLA print. Its a 20x20x20mm testprintbox.

How do I increase the walls so it can be exactly 20mm? Add some on the extrusion width?

Generally I don't recommend changing the steps per mm. That is calculated off the  gear size. you run into compounding error compensation if you do that.

Instead you should use the xy size compensation located in your slicer.