Help: Filastruder too slow

What kind of feed rate is expected?
I also think my Filastruder is too slow.  It takes more than a day to do 500g.  I estimate it will take 3 days to make a 1kg reel.  I am running it at 195°C through a 2mm nozzle to make 1.75mm filament.  I have checked the screen inside the nozzle is clean/clear.  I have tried a better hopper design to ensure the pellets are feeding into the barrel well.  I don't want to up the temp much more as filament quality will drop.
Is this rate normal?  I don't have any reference for 1.75mm filament.

Also, check that chute if it has a lot of hanging filaments from when it was printed, then it might have got backed-up /plugged after prolonged use.

I like the 2 piece chute, as it can be removed without dissembling the end.

Thank you for your replies.
I replaced the nozzle with the version without filter.
It is going noticeably more fast.
Therefore, it must be the filter.
However, I can't manage to change it. It doesn't have its retaining ring (the spare filters do have it); it seems it's just glued to the nozzle.
Does anyone know how to change it?

Soak that nozzle in Acetone.  It will disolve the ABS and allow you to get the filter out and clean off the debris.

-os3dp

The stock melt filter nozzles do not "suck", they have 250 micron filtration because 0.25mm nozzles are very common in hotends. If you pass particles that are larger than 250 microns, you will clog the hotend.

It is called header wrap and yes, many people use it with success. I've been eyebally this for some time, but I just never made the shallow plunge

Hi - thanks for that - very interesting.  I wanted to increase the speed so I drilled out the nozzle to 2.0mm and was running it at 195°C with a larger loop to the filawinder so there was more tension/stretch on the filament coming out - a bit of fiddling/balancing with temp and loop distance made it 1.75mm fine.

I am not using the MG94 pellets, I am using 'high flow' ABS pellets from here:  http://www.my3dmedia.com.au/collections … bs-pellets .  I am told that these pellets are not quite as fast as MG94.

I just received my 2.0 motor and stall control PCB today.  I have installed it and am producing filament MUCH faster now.  The motor stays at a constant speed too - very nice.  Previously I was getting a slight slowdown when the heater went on.  I thought it might be the power supply so I used a beefier 12V supply - but it didn't make any difference.  I think the 12V supply wires inside are too thin and there is a voltage drop due to the current.  Anyway, the control board solves that.  I see on the display it is dropping from 12.1V normally to 11.6V when the heater is on, but the motor now just chugs along constant.

I NOTE that the motor was NOT a straight swap.  The square shaft out of the gearbox was a bit shorter and wouldn't reach the coupling - so I had to take the gear and shaft out of the old one - didn't want to open the gearboxes but was kinda desperate.  I note that the legs on the new gearbox are slightly shorter so the back end of the (old) shaft actually pokes out a bit - so I had to drill out a hole to make space for it.  Anyway, extending some cables etc and it worked.

I adjusted the CV CC pots on the board per the 2.0 instructions - I hope I did it right.  It's working anyway.  I'll get some of that header wrap - I'm pretty sure I need more insulation.

Seems to be what i have going on, it seems ZERO pressure @ nozzle
It was extruding fine some ABS, but i needed to do PLA. Just had a shipment of reinforced nylon so i decided to give it a go first, assuming nozzle will clog ... Which it did maybe ... Extruded a bit fine and then ended. Took out hopper (breaking it in the process .. sigh), and pellets was just being circulating at the same spot.

Nozzle out, scrape all that i can off and leave the motor running while cleaning the screen, put back, extruded half a meter maybe and stops again

I have insulated the whole barrel (header wrap), and even tried much higher temps. Top of the barrel where hopper is luke warm ... Maybe 40C.

When taking out the nozzle it felt like there was no pressure at all

I wonder how much does the screw distance from nozzle affect this? I think i got this wrong due badly worded assembly instructions and only realized this after assembly done - seemed to work fine so ... Bad instructions btw: It should be noted that filawinder is basicly a must have. I never succeeded making usable filament before getting filawinder.

If i add heating elements on the base barrel as well: weld in drilled hollow M6 extension nuts *2, and use hot end heater cartridges up there, first in series so 40W total, and move to parallel for 80W total if more needed.
Would that help? Basicly melting the plastic before exiting screw.

Glass reinforced nylon is very abrasive, it may have polished the inside of the barrel which would reduce pressure in the melt zone.

There may be a clog upstream, I would recommend removing the auger from the barrel to inspect.

How are the instructions badly worded in this regard? They state that 2-10mm of the auger is to be sticking out with the thrust bearing compressed. How can this be clearer?

I and others have achieved tolerances +/-0.05mm or better without a winder. It is important to ensure the filament has a clear path to the floor, unobstructed and high enough that the bend radius of the filament is not severe.

Assuming the barrel is undamaged, more heat is not needed and will only serve to load the motor further by creating more friction. Step through things logically - was working fine before reinforced nylon was added, so think about what occurred then - possible abrasive wear from the glass fiber, possibly extruded at the wrong temperatures and stuck to the auger.

I am not being defensive, I am trying to help by examining the chain of events in order to arrive at what changed. I have run Filastruders for thousands of hours in total, I am just trying to share that experience. For example, regarding your comments about friction - it is the friction between the polymer and the barrel that I am referring to, not the auger touching the barrel. The importance of this friction is explained here. Glass fiber is extremely abrasive, here is a link on just how little material was needed to significantly impact the surface finish.

Anyway: it is clear my input is not wanted, so I'll kindly step away from the topic.