Topic: ABS Questions
I'm just now trying ABS. What temp do most of you set your Da Vinci to when printing ABS? I'm getting okay results, but the filament has sort of a pasty consistency which may be normal for ABS. What about the bed temp?
Thanks.
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → ABS Questions
I'm just now trying ABS. What temp do most of you set your Da Vinci to when printing ABS? I'm getting okay results, but the filament has sort of a pasty consistency which may be normal for ABS. What about the bed temp?
Thanks.
this can vary depending on the brand ABS you are using, but normally i do 230 and 90 for the bed.
Thanks! I was using 230 and 80 last night. The demo file printed fine. The next one I did from Thingiverse dragged the plastic all over the place. I leveled the bed so I don't think that's the issue. I'll try 90. Thanks.
also using some elmer's purple glue stick or any glue stick(the purple elmer's works great from my experience) with help it stick to the bed.
I actually got some of the Elmer's purple sticks today. ![]()
That is key. ![]()
You printed a demo ok, but thingiverse print dragged.
You can waste alot of time due to a poorly drawn model. Make sure the model is laying flat in your software host.
You printed a demo ok, but thingiverse print dragged.
You can waste alot of time due to a poorly drawn model. Make sure the model is laying flat in your software host.
Strongly agree. My experience, you can waste a lot of time with bad models( especially the ones i create
). I find it better to run most, if not all through netfabb(https://modelrepair.azurewebsites.net/index.php).The repair has saved me more time than one of the most important proper bed level. Another thing with non xyz filament, the temps for bed (80-95) and filament (205-235) vary greatly between brands. If you see any burning and look closely for any black/dark anywhere, even inside if you can see. Drop the filament temp.
Also, anything developed in either 123D or Tinkercad, about 99% of models, doesnt export much stl triangulation, facets, into the model.
When someone prints, say a cylinder, theres flats all around the outside. Which can cause someone to believe something wrong w/ the printer.
In Solidworks stl output parameters are called deviation and angle. Meshlab also will show stl triangulation of a surface.
Its a crazy 3d printing world.
Good info. Thanks.
also using some elmer's purple glue stick or any glue stick(the purple elmer's works great from my experience) with help it stick to the bed.
Thanks for the tip on the glue sticks. I was wondering which ones to get when the ones that came with the Pro run out.
also using some elmer's purple glue stick or any glue stick(the purple elmer's works great from my experience) with help it stick to the bed.
Do you use the glue directly on the metal print bed or do you first put down the tape sheets the machine comes with and then glue on top of that?
TheNeck wrote:also using some elmer's purple glue stick or any glue stick(the purple elmer's works great from my experience) with help it stick to the bed.
Do you use the glue directly on the metal print bed or do you first put down the tape sheets the machine comes with and then glue on top of that?
The glue sticks are used on glass or kapton tape over a heated bed for abs.
The painters tape is used alone on the metal or over glass on a room temp bed not heated for pla. Although you can heat the bed for pla but it should not be needed if leveled correctly.
Never ever print directly to metal. The nozzle can be damaged or clogged if it where to scrape the metal surface.
The glue sticks are used on glass or kapton tape over a heated bed for abs.
The painters tape is used alone on the metal or over glass on a room temp bed not heated for pla. Although you can heat the bed for pla but it should not be needed if leveled correctly.
Never ever print directly to metal. The nozzle can be damaged or clogged if it where to scrape the metal surface.
Thanks. I used the glue sticks on top of the 8x8 tape pieces that were pre packaged with my da Vinci pro because their customer support suggested it to prevent warping(i don't think it's kapton tape, feels like a big sheet of painters tape). It did work mind you, but in most cases resulted in the object being so tacked down to the print bed afterwards that the tape would lift and tear away with the printed object upon removal. Was wondering if I was doing it wrong.
wait for it to cool down longer they usually pop off easily if you do that.
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