Is my tip plugged??

Close up.

That's a shame.
You have a clog for sure. May be debris, may be solid plastic. I can only assume you are printing PLA from the looks of the tape on your bed. I had good experience with PLA on the stock hotend....for a little while. Then it started jamming religiously.

With a PEEK hotend, you will have to take your hotend out, remove the barrel and heating block to apply heat. I've found a butane torch and pliers help beautifully with this. IF it is a PLA clog, this will get you up and running. But I strongly urge you to print a new extruder and possibly look into a new hotend like an E3D.

Not to change the topic, but I have read on several sites that the nozzle size dictates your ability to do details and that the smallest detail you can print is the same size as your nozzle. So I guess if I had some very small raised letters would a .6 nozzle make it very hard to print them?

It even says this on that new stickied guide by S3D.

Your printer includes a nozzle with a fixed size that allows your to accurately reproduce very small features. For example, many printers include a nozzle with a 0.4mm diameter hole in the tip. While this works well for most parts, you may start to encounter issues when trying to print extremely thin features that are smaller than the nozzle diameter. For example, if you were trying to print a 0.2mm thick wall with a 0.4mm nozzle. The reason for this is that you cannot accurately produce a 0.2mm extrusion from a 0.4mm nozzle. The extrusion width should always be equal to or greater than the nozzle diameter. Because of this, when you click “Prepare to Print” in Simplify3D, you may notice that the software removes these small features from the preview. This is the software’s way of telling you that you cannot print these very tiny features using the current nozzle on your 3D printer. If you are frequently printing very small parts, this may be a recurring issue that you encounter. There are several options that will allow you to successfully print these small parts. We will example each one in the section below.

Cleaning is different.  For ABS you can soak it in Acetone or use heat.  With the all metal hot ends that becomes as simple as cranking up the temp.
Either way it's good to see you around, it's been a while

I'll have to get a small eye dropper and some acetone on the way home. Will it melt the acrylic body? I'll try to drop some in from the top and see if that helps. Also, I think mine shipped with a .35mm tip when they first shipped, now I think they ship with a .4mm tip.

I don't know what temperature you usually run at. I would try cranking it up to about 230 or 240, let it get good and hot. Then manually push some filament through. After that, run 200-400mm through your extruder to clear it.  You may be able to melt/burn whatever is in there out and get it flowing again. I have even seen people take a torch to the hotend to burn the debris out. (I don't recommend this, but it might need to be done)

At least something to try before going to the time, money, and trouble of replacing. If this cure kills the patient, you needed a new hot end anyway.

P.S.-I would be cautious putting acetone into my hotend. It might dissolve an ABS clog, but you don't know what the unintended consequences might be.

200c abs extruder and 110c bed.

Yep that whole barrel is pretty much the melt zone for the stock nozzle, so it gets pretty plugged up in there. I remember when I first got my machine and clogged it up, I enlarged the hole slightly and ran the M3 hex key they give you down it and pulled out a bunch of stuff (pretty sure my hex key is still covered in black plastic to this day). You'll like the E3D, because the melting zone is... much, much smaller.