1 (edited by burton2663 2015-10-13 12:37:35)

Topic: Hello Im new to 3D printing

Hello I need some assistance, with Slic3r settings and im not sure if my printing head is working. Ill just show some pics. On idle the filament flows but curling on left side edge of head. on skirt print and 1st layer nothing flows and skirt prints just on a single line.

layer height 0.2
1st layer 0.2
perimeter 3
pla heating 190
bed 30

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2 (edited by burton2663 2015-10-13 12:31:00)

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

my printer solidoodle

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3

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

Nice work station!

The simple settings you posted look fine at first glance, except maybe bed temp. With PLA, 60C gets me perfect adhesion to glass. I can print at 0C with pla using blue painters tape, but I like the finish from the glass better.

Have you calibrated your extruder steps yet? Those lines aren't nice and smooth.

Your skirt is probably set to be just one loop(line), check your settings under the skirt and brim tab under printer settings.

If you can't find the options I'm talking about make sure you switch to Expert Mode instead of simple mode.

Is your bed nice and level? If nothing is flowing on the first layer, your bed might be too close to the nozzle.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

4 (edited by widespreaddeadhead 2015-10-13 17:21:13)

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

Since it seems like you're new you probably didn't see that there is a Solidoodle Discussion Forum that this question seems like a better place for, since you're using a Solidoodle printer big_smile

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

5

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

Hello widespreaddeadhead

Thank you for your reply, yes my first time here sorry about the post on here and not on solidoodle section. Please move my post if needed...

Anyway im sending pics for the initial calibration up to my 20mm test cube print.

1. 100mm extruder calibration is okay
2. skirt at 5 loops
3. bed to nozzle at about 3mm business cardboard thick distance
4. settings okay
5. no flow on print

Thanks

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6

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

other pics, observe the upper portion near the thread of the heating block, there is a leak of melted filament. im thinking thats what is causing my pressure in the column low to flow out filament

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7

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

What's all over your nozzle? Looks dirty. Tighten it up so it doesn't leak, then level bed again and try again.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

8

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

i printed a ring, added brim to prep more but skirt, brim and up to 3rd layer (solid layers:3) had less flow. i will change to pla white for better image pics.

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9

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

widespreaddeadhead wrote:

What's all over your nozzle? Looks dirty. Tighten it up so it doesn't leak, then level bed again and try again.

its melted filament leaking i think from the thread. i will google how to thighten, i was not the one who assembled this. A guy sold it to me, his not around to fix my printer.

10 (edited by n2ri 2015-10-13 21:53:14)

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

PLA uses much lower heat settings that ABS and seems like you #1 issue

try 170 extruder and bed at 60 1st layer only then retry and see if anything else needs tweaked. may also need a parts cooling fan of some kind since PLA cools very slow causing other issues sometimes. but this would be a start to a fix. I prefer ABS with an charcoal filtered fan to deal with fumes myself as ABS does better prints for me without possibly clogging nozzle for good.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

11

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

n2ri wrote:

PLA uses much lower heat settings that ABS and seems like you #1 issue

try 170 extruder and bed at 60 1st layer only then retry and see if anything else needs tweaked. may also need a parts cooling fan of some kind since PLA cools very slow causing other issues sometimes. but this would be a start to a fix. I prefer ABS with an charcoal filtered fan to deal with fumes myself as ABS does better prints for me without possibly clogging nozzle for good.

Thanks n2ri

I will use 170/60. Il move to ABS once Im confident about the prints, still studying.

12

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

burton2663 wrote:
n2ri wrote:

PLA uses much lower heat settings that ABS and seems like you #1 issue

try 170 extruder and bed at 60 1st layer only then retry and see if anything else needs tweaked. may also need a parts cooling fan of some kind since PLA cools very slow causing other issues sometimes. but this would be a start to a fix. I prefer ABS with an charcoal filtered fan to deal with fumes myself as ABS does better prints for me without possibly clogging nozzle for good.

Thanks n2ri

I will use 170/60. Il move to ABS once Im confident about the prints, still studying.


You know most start out with ABS. As PLA is harder to get to stick and it is more prone to jam in your extruder.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

13

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

carl_m1968 wrote:
burton2663 wrote:
n2ri wrote:

PLA uses much lower heat settings that ABS and seems like you #1 issue

try 170 extruder and bed at 60 1st layer only then retry and see if anything else needs tweaked. may also need a parts cooling fan of some kind since PLA cools very slow causing other issues sometimes. but this would be a start to a fix. I prefer ABS with an charcoal filtered fan to deal with fumes myself as ABS does better prints for me without possibly clogging nozzle for good.

Thanks n2ri

I will use 170/60. Il move to ABS once Im confident about the prints, still studying.


You know most start out with ABS. As PLA is harder to get to stick and it is more prone to jam in your extruder.


Thanks carl_m1968, I will be getting some ABS. I only have a roll of PLA included free to test when i purchased the unit.

14

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

Definitely stop that leaking. When the hotend is cool, tighten the block to the threaded rod some more and test to make sure it isn't leaking. If it leaks where your nozzle threads into the block tighten it there too and test for leaking again. You'll have to level the bed against the nozzle again.

Like n2ri mentioned using a lower temp will definitely help too. Print a test object at a lower temp and if that isn't acceptable then run another one +/-5C until you get better results.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

15

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Definitely stop that leaking. When the hotend is cool, tighten the block to the threaded rod some more and test to make sure it isn't leaking. If it leaks where your nozzle threads into the block tighten it there too and test for leaking again. You'll have to level the bed against the nozzle again.

Like n2ri mentioned using a lower temp will definitely help too. Print a test object at a lower temp and if that isn't acceptable then run another one +/-5C until you get better results.


tight and clean, il get some capton tape for the temp sensor. tnx guys

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16

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

Your thermistor looks like it might be broken... can anyone else comment?

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

17

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Your thermistor looks like it might be broken... can anyone else comment?

its about 400K ohm

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18

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

burton2663 wrote:
widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Your thermistor looks like it might be broken... can anyone else comment?

its about 400K ohm


At room temp it should read around 100k. So you might consider replacing it.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

19

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

carl_m1968 wrote:
burton2663 wrote:
widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Your thermistor looks like it might be broken... can anyone else comment?

its about 400K ohm


At room temp it should read around 100k. So you might consider replacing it.

copy tnx carl_m1968

20

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

carl_m1968 wrote:

You know most start out with ABS. As PLA is harder to get to stick and it is more prone to jam in your extruder.

My experience was exactly the opposite - I could print with PLA much easier than I could with ABS when I was starting out.

burton - definitely try the PLA at the suggested temps. If the filament doesnt flow very well, increase the temp by a few degrees and see how it does. Increase in small increments until it flows well and sticks to previous layers well.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

21

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

its already tight im still getting a leak, temp sensor is okay. temp is stable at 180 plus minus 3

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22

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

Not sure, but I don't think the temp should be jumping around by that much.

That leak is bad. I would recommend removing the filament and then shutting your printer off. Then let it cool to the point that you can remove the block from the hollow threaded rod and check to make sure the threads on the rod and everything in the block look ok, check to see if damaged threads are causing your leak, or maybe a tiny piece of metal or something is stuck in there, or anything that looks out of the ordinary. Post a picture if there's something you're not sure about. Since it's apart take the time now to clean it out. Make sure you tightly put it all back together. Run some filament through to check for leaking.

If its still leaking... I know some hotends have you heat tighten the nozzle to the block for a very secure fit. I'm not sure if the same idea applies here but if you still have a leak right above your block, you might try tightening the block and the threaded rod just a bit while the hotend is hot. Then let it cool and warm it back up. Before you try this, let another member chime in about if this is the right thing to do.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

23

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

looks like a factory SD extruder but no heat paste in heater socket to make good transfer. also see how to tighten these in this forum on youtube videos as they are easy to break PEEK if not double nutted on threads and unscrewed from PEEK b4 hand. try to pull most filament out b4 cooling to ease the process. never saw a leak that bad on these. looks like heater block has melted at nozzle some also in pics maybe from over heating sometime.
the loose heater fit or poor thermister contact or a replaced heater of higher wattage also can cause the wide temp drift. search forum how to reset the extruder heating rate of climb also. I replaced my heater and have not done this yet so have to do couple on/off cycles to keep from over shooting temp at start and get similar +/- 7c temps while printing sometimes but ABS forgives more. looks like your getting closer though.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

24

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

just looked at all pics again and you may have a cracked or broken threaded barrel, for sure threads are stripped down from gripping them with pliers. also the heater blocks are loose fit threads which would let it leak. post a topic for a good used SD threaded tube as many members have old extruder parts laying around. dont bother with Solidoodles over priced if available parts and year long respounces and wrong parts sent.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

25

Re: Hello Im new to 3D printing

widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Not sure, but I don't think the temp should be jumping around by that much.

That leak is bad. I would recommend removing the filament and then shutting your printer off. Then let it cool to the point that you can remove the block from the hollow threaded rod and check to make sure the threads on the rod and everything in the block look ok, check to see if damaged threads are causing your leak, or maybe a tiny piece of metal or something is stuck in there, or anything that looks out of the ordinary. Post a picture if there's something you're not sure about. Since it's apart take the time now to clean it out. Make sure you tightly put it all back together. Run some filament through to check for leaking.

If its still leaking... I know some hotends have you heat tighten the nozzle to the block for a very secure fit. I'm not sure if the same idea applies here but if you still have a leak right above your block, you might try tightening the block and the threaded rod just a bit while the hotend is hot. Then let it cool and warm it back up. Before you try this, let another member chime in about if this is the right thing to do.


sorry but i broke my threaded rod sad i'll be back when everything is replaced. 2nd time i tightened it, tightened too much sad

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