A question about my DaVinci 1.0A with Repetier (Page 1 of 2)

Does anyone know of a way to stop this behavior or why it is occurring?

Slic3r and the Cura slicing engines are included within the Repetier Host program you need to download.  I believe they both have standalone versions you can use as well for slicing.  They are included in the Repetier Host program as sort of an "all in one" solution.

The repetier firmware needs to be flashed to the printer if you wish to use the Repetier host program.  It also opens up the printer to do many other things and frees you from the confines of XYZware.

This is a resource thread I created that may be of some help:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/12400/my … resources/

Let me know if I didn't answer your question completely.

lifting of the edges is common when printing with abs.

here are things that can negatively affect your print and cause more lifting:

The bed not being level.
the nozzle being to far away from the bed on the first lvl.
the fist level being supper thin
the bed not being hot enough
long thin prints
not using glue like uhu (you can use others as well or hair spray. I find hair spray doesn't work as well as the glue for abs but works good for pla. but the uhu glue works well for pla as well) often I may skip the glue if I want a really smooth print as the glue does reduce that hair spray is better for that then glue but nothing is still smoother)  if you don't use glue getting the right distance between the nozzle and the bed is very very important.

Things that can be helpful in keeping a print from lifting:

a brim ( this essentially increases the first lay surface which can help resist the curling an even if you do get some usialy its just the brim that lifts.

a raft (this can help if your bed suffers from not being flat)

Putting scrap throw away parts near the corners and making sure the brim from the corner touches the scrap part (example putting a 5 mm circle near the corner when you design the part and then setting it 3 mm away and having a 3 mm brim)

I'm sure there are more but those are the basic ones.

odd mine does the comport thing but just turning off the printer and back on lets me reconnect

Mine does not do that unfortantely.  Requires a reboot.  When I go into device manager and look at the properties of COM10 and go the advanced settings, it lets you look at the other com ports.  it says 11 is in use but still cannot maintain the com port unless I reboot.

Maybe this has something do with the drivers installed, windows 10 or some combo of them.  I am hoping someone with more technical expertise might be able to help.

This is a good suggestion but unfortunately it did not work.  I try different combo's but the printer port the printer usually uses is busy.  Some how it is not being released as available.  Quite frankly I am not sure if this is how this is suppose to work in Windows 10.  I wonder is there is some other way to "flush" the ports instead of rebooting.

It is connected directly though I have this USB connector:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6812120087

I am going to be installing a wifi SD card so maybe this is a moot issue but I would like to figure it out if I can.  This was not an issue before the flash.  So something with Arduino maybe and how it is detected?

I would highly recommend the wifi SD card route, it's so much less hassle than printing over USB.
I always found printing over USB very hit or miss but printing from SD is much more reliable.
There's a neat little mod for the Toshiba Flashair cards that lets you upload, download and delete files from a browser.

I'm sorry if this comment has no sense. Have you tried to change the com port in Printer Properties of Repetier-host? I find that after the turning off and on of the printer, this com port changes (not sure if always or sometimes), and it could be necessary to readjust that setting.

In my case, when trying to reconnect from Repetier-host the error message sometime says "the port doesn't exist", then I fix the com port in Printer Properties (I see there that the previous com port is wrong) but another time it appears an error message when trying to reconnect: "denied access". So that for me this change of com port isn't a solution but... could it be for you?

the tape just keeps you from damaging the bed nothing to do with sticking.

if your printing on a glass heated bed don't use painters tape (well you can but I don't). Even with painters tape you still need glue or hair spray.

I do use it on my printer that does not have a heated bed and I find I still need to use glue or hair spray to get prints to stick well.

Do you think that painters tape could be a preventive measure against the bed glass breaking (which is a common issue, as far as I know, in Da Vinci 1.0/1.0A)?

Thanks for the replies.  My issue is not really with things warping.  That was an adjustment issue all taken care of now.    I use Kapton sheets and they work well and last a long time.  I personally don't like painters tape but I heard it is better for PLA.

I will try Carl's latest suggestion about the com port issue(lowering).  To be clear to others that posted I have no issue connecting in S3D or Repetier.  It is an issue with the com ports, windows 10, Arduino and the printer.  I'll let you know what I find out.

I got my wifi SD card today unfortunately the nice folks at Amazon sent me the wrong adapter so I have a new one in coming next week now.  That will be my preferred way I thing once I can get things hooked up and working.  I do wonder how the stock firmware could upload relatively quickly to the sd card in the printer will it takes considerably longer with repetier firmware.  I am sure there is an explanation.