1 Topic by Coastal

  • Coastal
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Topic: Print warping, cracks, and concave faces.

G'day guys,

I've been asked to print a model on the printer at university, and despite being the one with the most experience using it (very little to none), I don't know why I'm getting the problems I am.

The idea is to build a 3d printed cube with a small hole in the top. If you take a look at the attached pictures below, you'll see that there are quite severe concave sections on the bottom, as well as an apparent 'sagging' of the sides.

To top this all off, there's rather pronounced striations on the side faces, including some which are unexpectedly large.

We have a DaVinci 1.0a, with 1.0.6 firmware and latest XYZ print-ware, but this was printed with 1.0.3 firmware and older software (Updated in hope it might fix this problem, but couldn't find any patch notes at all and reluctant to try again.).

No custom firmware or anything is installed as it's not *my* printer.

The print settings I used are;

  • Layer Height: 0.10

  • 3D Density: Solid (90%)

  • Shells: Thick

  • Speed: Slow

  • Raft: Yes

  • Supports: Yes (High)

Any advice would be fantastic!

Thanks,

http://i.imgur.com/cbkUhPTl.png
http://i.imgur.com/AwvhEFOl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GRfyTa4l.jpg

2 Reply by carl_m1968 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-09-15 23:56:11)

  • carl_m1968
  • carl_m1968
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Re: Print warping, cracks, and concave faces.

Looks to me you are too hot and under extruding. Unfortunately there is no way to fix this on stock firmware and software. You are already printing slow which should help with both. But just for testing you could try printing faster. Also you don't need supports as there are no over hangs.

What material are you using, and do you know what temps it is running at? Also are you keeping the door open or closed?

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

3 Reply by Coastal (edited by Coastal 2015-09-16 00:04:12)

  • Coastal
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Re: Print warping, cracks, and concave faces.

carl_m1968 wrote:

Looks to me you are too hot and under extruding. Unfortunately there is no way to fix this on stock firmware and software. You are already printing slow which should help with both. But just for testing you could try printing faster. Also you don't need supports as there are no over hangs.

What material are you using, and do you know what temps it is running at? Also are you keeping the door open or closed?


We've got ABS filament, door's usually closed but I had the lid ajar to use a webcam!

I have seen a few notes relating to cooling too quickly, which  I guess having the lid open won't help with...

Should I make a case for upgrading to the Repetier firmware? Is there potentially any other solution I should consider?

Edit: I didn't note the temperature sorry - I think the print bed is ~90°C and the extrude ~220°. Not certain of those numbers at all though.

4 Reply by carl_m1968

  • carl_m1968
  • carl_m1968
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Re: Print warping, cracks, and concave faces.

I would try the print again with all doors closed even during the warmup process.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

5 Reply by scobo (edited by scobo 2015-09-16 07:04:27)

  • scobo
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Re: Print warping, cracks, and concave faces.

I would certainly recommend flashing repetier.
It'll open up a whole bunch of settings which might help with this print but will improve overall print quality hugely among other benefits.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

6 Reply by Coastal

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Re: Print warping, cracks, and concave faces.

carl_m1968 wrote:

I would try the print again with all doors closed even during the warmup process.

Hi Carl,

What might have caused that sagging on the lower side-faces?

I haven't tried re-printing yet, wanted to establish why some of the things went so horribly wrong first.

Is it worth sealing (i.e. with layer of tape) the top vent? There was only a minimal amount open for the camera wire in the first place (less than an inch at most). What about the gaps around the door?

Thanks for your help so far!

7 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Print warping, cracks, and concave faces.

The parts you see pulled in are areas that cooled faster than the rest of the part. That means you bed temp may be too low, there are cold spots in those beds. Your printing temp could be too high or too low. The is also some indication the part may have stayed too hot in the lower areas which could indicate a hot spot in your bed or it's too hot.

The first thing you need to do is get a thermometer that has a thermocouple type measure that can make contact. IR thermometers will not work. This should be part of your printer tool box. You then need to set the machine to preheat and measure the bed temp in six to nine locations and confirm they are correct based on the displayed temp. You then need to confirm the hot end is correct as well by measuring where the nozzle meets the heat block.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.