RH manual Control flow settings for SD2? (Page 2 of 2)

100 mm's = 10 cm's
100 cm's = 1 meter
So 100 mm's = about 3.94 inches.

What are you talking about 1mm layer but 3 layers?

They use a setting of 1 for the perimeters but that is not mm that is an actual number so vertical walls are only 1 layer wide.

You use 1 for this calibration step but in actual prints that would be changed to the same as your top and bottom layer which is usually 2 or 3.

1mm layers are some pretty freaking thick layers. Are you sure you don't mean .1mm? You really need to work on your metric conversions so your questions are easier to understand.

I am still confused as going by the pictures in that link the "infill every" option they have set at 1 is irrelevant since infill % is set to ZERO. However if  there was a percentage selected then that option would make an infill layer on every layer. If set to 2 it would skip a layer. Not real sure how or why you would want to skip layers on infill though.

Infill has no affect on wall width. Infill is simply just what it says. it is the passes that are made to fill the voids inside of our models.

Layer height also has no bearing on wall width either except for the first layer. That layer width is dictated by the .15mm gap you have between the bed and nozzle. If your machine is calibrated right  then and an extrusion multiplier of 1.00 and an extrusion width of .42 should give you walls that are .42mm wide. If not then your calibration is still off but you can tweak it with the multiplier.

I think you are over thinking settings and their meanings and making it confusing yourself. The settings are very literal in what they do and if you hover your mouse over one there is even a pop up that comes up explaining it's function in more detail. You also need to beaware what section the settings is under.

Missed a decimal there. It's 0.1 meters or 10 centimeters.

Extrusion width has more to do with Nozzle diameter than layer height.

0.3 layer height is a good standard to calibrate with.  The extrusion width should be set as a factor of x1.2 of the nozzle; so for a 0.35 dia. nozzle, the extrusion width settings should be 0.42...a 0.4 dia nozzle would have a setting of 0.48...

After calibration for the flow rate is completed, then changing the layer heights in Slic3r generally will compensate to keep the extrusion width close to what you need.

It looks to me like you're trying to print the first layer too thin (even for 0.1mm!) - I'd highly recommend setting your first layer to 0.2mm for the moment, get that dialed in, and then attempt 0.1mm (it's quite tricky to get right out of the blue).

When levelling the bed, the feeler gauge is great - but to get the first layer height right, the only way I've succeeded is to then print a skirt / single wall on the bed, peel it off, and measure with calipers - adjusting the z-stop to bring the whole (level) bed up and down until it's right. And for adhesion, I often aim for my first layer to be a bit under theoretical height too (e.g. 0.20-0.22mm for 0.25mm first layer).

Note that Z=0 is theoretically nozzle-touching-bed (zero gap), the printer will move to Z=first_layer_height to print the first layer...

So you've done the 100mm extruder calibration? I'd follow this up next with:
* Measure actual filament diameter, enter this into slic3r filament settings
* Print a single-wall calibration cube, and use the slic3r extrusion multiplier (filament settings again) to achieve the correct wall thickness (as IronMan described).

Then you can proceed to ensuring that first layer is correct!

+1
Figure most people will want to use the third dimension of their 3d printer a bit though, so never really thought of it as an issue hehe.
Get an l-cheapo laser module and cut paper instead haha!

Still, you should be able to achieve a consistent first layer thickness at 0.2mm.

Just thinking again Dingo - if that photo is the aluminium bed with kapton, you may find trying out a sheet of glass with hairspray straight on top will be better for very thin layers. Let's see how the 0.2mm goes first though.

Sounds like you're in control, good work! Congratulations on that 0.1mm first layer, the glass is probably key.

Still curious about the cube though - so when you say "I'm overextruding by 83%", do you mean you printed a single-wall cube, measured the wall thickness and instead of being the targeted 0.48mm it was (1.83 * 0.48 0.88mm? That's a bit wild, and doesn't seem to be corroborated by your observations of holes in the print or improved results with an increased multiplier... I think the settings you have settled on are likely good, but there's just something funny in the cal cube print settings / calculations there!

Re replacement hairspray, look for "extra hold" or similar on the front of the can, and then on the back amongst the ingredients:
* Vinyl Acetate/Crotonates Acid/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer (sometimes VA=Vinyl Acetate, sometimes "Acid" missing)
* Acrylates Copolymer

.48 is actually correct for a .3 layer height.

I used 20% and they feel pretty solid, though I think I could snap them if I used all my finger strength to bend them. Should I have used 100%?

For anything functional that will be used to do work or support anything, you should use 80% infill minimum.