xnex8080 wrote:carl_m1968 wrote:xnex8080 wrote:I just did a test print of a cibe and it barely stuck on there, I think it was luck than changing some of the code. when you mean to lower the G1 Z5 F5000 by one, do you mean it to be like this? G1 Z5 F4999
The F is the move speed. Leave it at 5000. The Z and the number is the number of mm that the Z is offset from home at print start. In this case the bed is moving down 5mm from home. So if likr you say you have a 1mm gap between the bed and nozzle then just reduce the Z5 by 1 to make it Z4. Or reduce by whatever value you need to close the gap up. It could even be a whole number and decimal such as Z3.95..
I just lowered the number quite a lot and there seems to be no improvement, my problem I am having is really stumbling me because just a week ago my printer was printing with almost no failures...
Have you tried this?
First Calibration
Every Solidoodle Press 3D Printer is tested and calibrated before being shipped, but it may need some minor calibration for best results.
Select Z-Offset calibration and a new window will pop up.
Click the “Run Calibration Test” button to begin.
The printer will extrude a series of lines all at various Z heights, the middle line represents the current Z-offset value; to the left are lower values and to the right are higher.
Find the line that looks like it adhered the best and is the most consistent, select the check box below it, and click the “Set New Z-Offset” button to save the new Z-Offset value.
Straight from their getting started manual.
http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … ng-Started
I have a rule with 3D printers regarding any time you have a problem. Always go back to the basics and square one.
Printing since 2009 and still love it!
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