1 Topic by Landin81

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Topic: Simplify3d

Got sick of the xyzware so I bought the simplify3d, and its aloooot better. But, what kind of settings are you running?
I have some problems getting my ABS to stuck on my bed.

My bed is 100degree C all the time, isnt it suppose to go down after a few layers?
Im printing on speed 1100, it was set to 1800 stock but that was to fast.

Im printing on 200degree C

I have try 1 layer of glue, two layers, three and four. Some parts will just pop up after a few layers. =/

Any tips? Im new to this.

2 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Simplify3d

Make sure your bed is calibrated. Not by the built in system but by the manual method that is a sticky in this section. For third party ABS an extruder temp of 220 to 230 is more realistic. The bed is normally 90 to 110. These beds have hot and cold spots so you should divide it up on papaer into 6 x 6 quadrants and measure the temp of each quadrant with a contact type thermometer so you know where the cooler spots and hotter spots are and try to position your print accordingly.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

3 Reply by Landin81 (edited by Landin81 2015-07-31 03:58:27)

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Re: Simplify3d

carl_m1968 wrote:

Make sure your bed is calibrated. Not by the built in system but by the manual method that is a sticky in this section. For third party ABS an extruder temp of 220 to 230 is more realistic. The bed is normally 90 to 110. These beds have hot and cold spots so you should divide it up on papaer into 6 x 6 quadrants and measure the temp of each quadrant with a contact type thermometer so you know where the cooler spots and hotter spots are and try to position your print accordingly.



Thanx for the input!
I did a calibration with paper, and after that I did the calibration in the printer and it said error, so I thougt I might did something wrong. Attached the calibrationnumbers after I calibrated it again via the printers numbers.

I have my bed at 100 now and abs at 230, the printer is now printing a base first, and it looks like the little frog is going to stay on the bed like it should. It took about 20minutes to print the damn base for it, dont want too be needing to do that everytime I want to print something small =/


Hmm, no, the arms on the little froggie didnt stuck to the big base, dont know if my cooling is to poor? the abs wont even stick to itselfe =/

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4 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Simplify3d

Landin81 wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:

Make sure your bed is calibrated. Not by the built in system but by the manual method that is a sticky in this section. For third party ABS an extruder temp of 220 to 230 is more realistic. The bed is normally 90 to 110. These beds have hot and cold spots so you should divide it up on papaer into 6 x 6 quadrants and measure the temp of each quadrant with a contact type thermometer so you know where the cooler spots and hotter spots are and try to position your print accordingly.



Thanx for the input!
I did a calibration with paper, and after that I did the calibration in the printer and it said error, so I thougt I might did something wrong. Attached the calibrationnumbers after I calibrated it again via the printers numbers.

I have my bed at 100 now and abs at 230, the printer is now printing a base first, and it looks like the little frog is going to stay on the bed like it should. It took about 20minutes to print the damn base for it, dont want too be needing to do that everytime I want to print something small =/


Hmm, no, the arms on the little froggie didnt stuck to the big base, dont know if my cooling is to poor? the abs wont even stick to itselfe =/


If you ran the built in calibration after the manual calibration then you did not follow the procedure.

It explecitly states to never run the built in calibration again after using the paper method. The built in method is faulty and the values it has you adjust for are too large. Those values will also change every yime you run the ptocedure without even touching any thing. It just is not reliable and the paper method is as old as 3d printing itself and proven to be reliable.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

5 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Simplify3d

@Carl, if I had a nickel for every time.... Well, you know the rest wink

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6 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Simplify3d

wardjr wrote:

@Carl, if I had a nickel for every time.... Well, you know the rest wink

I know what you mean, I know what you mean.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

7 Reply by Landin81 (edited by Landin81 2015-07-31 05:04:30)

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Re: Simplify3d

carl_m1968 wrote:
Landin81 wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:

Make sure your bed is calibrated. Not by the built in system but by the manual method that is a sticky in this section. For third party ABS an extruder temp of 220 to 230 is more realistic. The bed is normally 90 to 110. These beds have hot and cold spots so you should divide it up on papaer into 6 x 6 quadrants and measure the temp of each quadrant with a contact type thermometer so you know where the cooler spots and hotter spots are and try to position your print accordingly.



Thanx for the input!
I did a calibration with paper, and after that I did the calibration in the printer and it said error, so I thougt I might did something wrong. Attached the calibrationnumbers after I calibrated it again via the printers numbers.

I have my bed at 100 now and abs at 230, the printer is now printing a base first, and it looks like the little frog is going to stay on the bed like it should. It took about 20minutes to print the damn base for it, dont want too be needing to do that everytime I want to print something small =/


Hmm, no, the arms on the little froggie didnt stuck to the big base, dont know if my cooling is to poor? the abs wont even stick to itselfe =/


If you ran the built in calibration after the manual calibration then you did not follow the procedure.

It explecitly states to never run the built in calibration again after using the paper method. The built in method is faulty and the values it has you adjust for are too large. Those values will also change every yime you run the ptocedure without even touching any thing. It just is not reliable and the paper method is as old as 3d printing itself and proven to be reliable.


Well, I might run the papermethod again today.
Just finished the frog-print and it came out pretty nice anyway with the machine calibration.

So I can use a regular printerpaper to do the cal? And just so it touches the head?

I had to press down some parts of the frog while printing it, it got loose in the middle of the print, the neck and so on popped up, but after pressing it down gently with the scraper it stuck there. should I turn the fan off?

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8 Reply by scobo

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Re: Simplify3d

Yes, regular paper is fine. You want the nozzle just grabbing the paper so that there's slight resistance when you move it.
Most of us who have had our Davinci a while never use auto cal now.
Do you mean the extruder fan ? If so, you should always have it on while printing or you'll get filament jams.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

9 Reply by Landin81

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Re: Simplify3d

scobo wrote:

Yes, regular paper is fine. You want the nozzle just grabbing the paper so that there's slight resistance when you move it.
Most of us who have had our Davinci a while never use auto cal now.
Do you mean the extruder fan ? If so, you should always have it on while printing or you'll get filament jams.


Thanx! I will try the papermethod again smile

Hmm, I read that ABS should have no fan, and on some other places that it should, but I think I have read on more places that ABS should have alot of heat, and no cooling, if cooled down the ABS will shrink and it can look bad.

The edges still tilts a bit up. How to fix that? Maby im printing with to mush heat on the extruder?

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10 Reply by aestheticus

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Re: Simplify3d

Landin81 wrote:
scobo wrote:

Yes, regular paper is fine. You want the nozzle just grabbing the paper so that there's slight resistance when you move it.
Most of us who have had our Davinci a while never use auto cal now.
Do you mean the extruder fan ? If so, you should always have it on while printing or you'll get filament jams.


Thanx! I will try the papermethod again smile

Hmm, I read that ABS should have no fan, and on some other places that it should, but I think I have read on more places that ABS should have alot of heat, and no cooling, if cooled down the ABS will shrink and it can look bad.

The edges still tilts a bit up. How to fix that? Maby im printing with to mush heat on the extruder?

When I had this issue, it's because my bed was too hot. I was running it at 100c and dropped it to 90c. No issues anymore.

11 Reply by Landin81

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Re: Simplify3d

Wow. Lowered The be temp to 85 and extruder to 220. Looks awesome!!