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Topic: Holes not even close to circular

So I rebuilt my SD4 with the Lawsy carriages and the E3DV6 hot-end, and I'm getting supposedly circular items that look like:

http://geekho.com/Push/OvalCircle.jpg

Any idea what might be going wrong?  I've checked the belt tension, tightened both X and Y axes to the point where they'll start skipping steps and destroying the print after printing a while, and am getting essentially no change.

The only thing that seems strange to me with the Lawsy carriages and the E3D hot-end is that the original carriage had three hold-down screws for the hot-end/extruder-stepper bracket, two in the front and one in the middle, where the lawsy carriages only have holes for the two in the front, so the hot-end has a bit more freedom to move up and down if the rear of the extruder stepper lifts, if that makes any sense.

or is this result something obvious?

Thanks!

2

Re: Holes not even close to circular

If your nozzle can move independent of the extruded carriage then you have something wrong.
If your carriage can wobble up and down on the rods then you have something wrong.
You should be able to move that with your hand with no noticeable play in any direction.
Start with some pictures.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3

Re: Holes not even close to circular

Check and make sure the x rods are perpendicular or square  to the y rods .
this was causing a similar issue on my stock sd4..
tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

4

Re: Holes not even close to circular

Do a google search for Y axis calibration

5

Re: Holes not even close to circular

I've seen this, but it seems kinda drastic. Thoughts?

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

6

Re: Holes not even close to circular

Wouldn't that fall in line with proper calibration and alignment of the Y-axis?  I fail to see anything drastic about it.
His approach is slightly different but the end goal is to have the timing belts synced up and the Y-axis running as close to perpendicular to the X-axis as possible.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7 (edited by heartless 2015-07-14 19:38:24)

Re: Holes not even close to circular

w_smith wrote:

So I rebuilt my SD4 with the Lawsy carriages and the E3DV6 hot-end, and I'm getting supposedly circular items that look like:

http://geekho.com/Push/OvalCircle.jpg

Any idea what might be going wrong?  I've checked the belt tension, tightened both X and Y axes to the point where they'll start skipping steps and destroying the print after printing a while, and am getting essentially no change.

The only thing that seems strange to me with the Lawsy carriages and the E3D hot-end is that the original carriage had three hold-down screws for the hot-end/extruder-stepper bracket, two in the front and one in the middle, where the lawsy carriages only have holes for the two in the front, so the hot-end has a bit more freedom to move up and down if the rear of the extruder stepper lifts, if that makes any sense.

or is this result something obvious?

Thanks!

(see bold part above)
If you did not drill a hole for that 3rd screw (the centered one) that is where a lot of your problem lies.

Disassemble down to the mounting plate, and drill a hole in the carriage base for that 3rd mounting screw - 7/64" drill bit will work very well

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

8

Re: Holes not even close to circular

heartless wrote:

(see bold part above)
If you did not drill a hole for that 3rd screw (the centered one) that is where a lot of your problem lies.

Disassemble down to the mounting plate, and drill a hole in the carriage base for that 3rd mounting screw - 7/64" drill bit will work very well

what. lawsy's carriages requires no drilling. what are you talking about

9

Re: Holes not even close to circular

jagowilson wrote:

what. lawsy's carriages requires no drilling. what are you talking about

+1

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

10 (edited by heartless 2015-07-15 12:51:21)

Re: Holes not even close to circular

does for the SD4 extruder mounting. I had to drill a hole in the top center piece to be able to mount the aluminum part that holds the extruder motor - I used the stock extruder set up on mine, btw... In fact, I had to drill all 3 holes to mount the stock aluminum mounting plate.

Perhaps if  you are using the entire printed extruder assembly (Mk5?) you don't need to drill holes, but I had to in order to fit the stock set up... I will take pics shortly since I have mine torn apart at the moment...

I chose to keep the stock aluminum extruder assembly since it worked fine and it was not the acrylic jigsaw junk from the earlier models.

here ya go... The white parts were just printed yesterday, unmodified, for the 2nd SD4 we have. the purple parts with the aluminum mount attached are from my 1st SD4 - I took it apart because the bearings were getting rather sloppy in the carriages - will be wrapping them with some kapton tape and reinstalling today. 

So.... I guess it all depends on what extruder setup you are using on whether or not you need to drill holes.

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SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

11

Re: Holes not even close to circular

Thank you for the clarification.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

12

Re: Holes not even close to circular

Indeed, thanks. I chose to remove the aluminum plate--I would encourage others to do the same. The fan blowing from the side is simply not needed, unless you are using the stock hotend (and even then, I'm not sure). I detailed how I installed the Lawsy carriages a while back, and I chose to remove the aluminum and fan:

http://www.soliforum.com/post/72175/#p72175

13

Re: Holes not even close to circular

no problem guys. and jago - thanks for the link to your mount setup.

I like the aluminum piece for ease of use and it wont "melt" or deform anytime soon from stepper motor and/or hotend heat. The fan on the left was removed and used for other things, as was the fan on the back of the case. I suppose the left side of that aluminum piece could be cut off but I haven't done so - didn't really see a need to.

At the moment, it is serving as a mounting point for a remote nozzle fan (using one of those 40mm fans I removed for a better purpose) - and no, i am not gonna show it yet...still a work in progress & pretty ugly, lol

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

14 (edited by jagowilson 2015-07-16 17:24:48)

Re: Holes not even close to circular

you can actually just unscrew it if you want rid of it. remove the fan and heatsink off the back of the motor and the plate comes off. then you can put the fam and heatsink back on. it won't melt your carriages, I've put mine through a lot of abuse and had no problems. no cutting needed!