Topic: Glass bed completely cracked and coming apart
So, first the glassed chipped, then on a bigger print, it cracked altogether. See pic.
I used the glue stick that came with the printer.
I read around for infos, and small prints do pop away from the glass upon completely cooled.
I tried the blue tape, and its a mess because it cooks on the glass and its hard to remove. Also, the plastic does not really stick to it, so I had long prints curl up at the edges.
However, the glass and glue stick have consistently failed with prints that have some amount of contact surface with the bed.
Over few square inches, the prints are stuck to the glass beyond the structural strength of the glass itself.
This system seems designed for small prints, with small contact areas. If about a quarter of the bed is covered in the ABS print, it WILL BREAK THE GLASS, to some extent.
XYZprinting has been very responsive with the isse and I think they are about to send me a new heated bed, but the issue will remain.
So my question is: is an aluminum plate the answer to print large contact prints? Should I simply screw an aluminum plate on top of the new bed? Will the existing bracket and screw have enough thickness to accommodate a new layer of material?
Otherwise, should we simply NOT print large surface prints, and use rafters at the bottom? I have never tried the rafter function from XYZware, does it create a flat support system for the bottom of the print? This may be the solution to avoid the plastic to be smoothly stuck to the glass.
How are you all out there doing this? No one is printing prints with large contact areas?
Thank you!
regards
