soliforum  dot com/topic/2341/poor-mans-antibacklash-nut-no-assembly-required/

Can someone help me out with a real link please...

Sam

Also, one thing that might be worth a shot first: reduce feedrate (so filament can cool down) *and* do outer perimeters first. Never tried it while I had the banding issues... Just a thought.

I am running a print now. I thought it was the flowrate I reduce down? How can I get the software that compensates?

I made this for backlash (but there are *many* other options, partial list here under anti-backlash devices--this is probably one of the easiest, but it may not work for everyone), and I also use firmware compensation (report here).

Quick terminology: Backlash = motion error due to clearance gap between nut and rod threads, Wobble = motion error caused by bent or slightly off-center rods.  If you have backlash, then the wobble will be more pronounced, because the nut has more room for movement.  I guess I was reasonably lucky with my Z-rod, so after dealing with backlash I didn't have much wobble.

Maybe others want to offer 2nd opinion (never had overshoot issues myself, so no direct experience), but consistent ridges *all around* the print sounds very much like wobble to me. Do you have any anti backlash fix on the z axis?

I'm not sure what that is. I think I might have seen people print 3D shapes that help to stabilize the Z Rod, but I am not sure how those might work.

Trying slower federate is worth a shot, but isn't this too regular to be overshoot? Also, worth knowing: are the ridges on opposite sides of the print in-sync (ie when there is an outward ridge on one side, there is an inward valley on the opposite side, at the same z-height), or the opposite (ie there is also an outward ridge on the opposite side, kind of like the Michelin man -- the latter would suggest z-wobble. Also, FWIW, when I do single-wall test prints, the wobble is *much* less visible (my theory is that there isn't any neighbouring material, so layers sort of align to an extent), so it's *possible* wobble is consistent with the "infill only" observation. One thing I never tried is the "outer perimeters first" in Slic3r... Just my 2c.

There ae no valleys as best I can tell. Just ridges all the way around each line. I assume the farther in areas are the proper girth and not really valleys.

adrian wrote:

Just print as per normal with the profile you use - adjust the "Feedrate" slider in RH down to say 50% and see what happens.

The feedrate? Wouldn't that be the same as adjusting the extrusion multiplier under filament options? What does that have to do with the speed of the carriage?

Nope. "Flowrate" acts as the realtime adjust for the multiplier.

"Feedrate" is the correct CNC term for 'linear motion speed' - for some reason thats what they chose for the slider in RH too where everwhere else they use the more lay reference 'speed'... *shrug*

Just print as per normal with the profile you use - adjust the "Feedrate" slider in RH down to say 50% and see what happens.

The feedrate? Wouldn't that be the same as adjusting the extrusion multiplier under filament options? What does that have to do with the speed of the carriage?

only with infil suggests it might actually be 'overshoot'.

Check belt tensions and also try slowing your print down as much as it might hurt to slide to the left on that speed slider... But this will tell you quickly if its overshoot (acceleration/speed related) or not...

Could also be a loose carriage - infill is much quicker and the jerky movements can cause rocking - check the teflon block at the rear of the x-carriage is snug but not tight - it needs a tiny bit of play to prevent binding..

also check extruder and that zip-tie are tight - again rocking extruder can cause banding

I don't think anything appears practicularly wabbly. I tightened the Y carriage belts a little. How do I change the speed of the print job without effecting anything else? Also when adjusting the extrusion multiplier it seems I have to choose between there being too little extrusion and the webbing being slightly visible through the top 3 layers at the end of a print, or so much that it increases the visibility of the layer lines.

When I run my finger nail down the sides of this model it feels roughly the same as the all white version of the same print that I made much closer to when I got the machine. Could it just be the color that makes it look worst than it is?

Check belt tensions and also try slowing your print down as much as it might hurt to slide to the left on that speed slider... But this will tell you quickly if its overshoot (acceleration/speed related) or not...

Could also be a loose carriage - infill is much quicker and the jerky movements can cause rocking - check the teflon block at the rear of the x-carriage is snug but not tight - it needs a tiny bit of play to prevent binding..

also check extruder and that zip-tie are tight - again rocking extruder can cause banding