cmetzel wrote:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/

Cheap and effective way, scale it up to suit if you have an SD3

Cool. Did you only use magnets or did you actually drill holes in the frame to get the magnets or hinges in places? I'd prefer the less abrasive method if possible. What thickness was the Lexan and how much space can be allowed between the sheets and the frame to insure it works well to keep the heat in?

Very pretty mod he made there.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/

Cheap and effective way, scale it up to suit if you have an SD3

Cool. Did you only use magnets or did you actually drill holes in the frame to get the magnets or hinges in places? I'd prefer the less abrasive method if possible. What thickness was the Lexan and how much space can be allowed between the sheets and the frame to insure it works well to keep the heat in?

paeltz wrote:

Rocketman wrote:

Should I assume the link to the photos were using Lexan? Is that tiny hole in the top large enough for the filament to feed in smoothly? It seems like it would be asking for it to get a kink?

If you are talking about my design I believe it was Lexan but the link is provided.  Also the hole is plenty large and actually has helped my spool from getting tangled on larger prints.

Cool. Did you only use magnets or did you actually drill holes in the frame to get the magnets or hinges in places? I'd prefer the less abrasive method if possible. What thickness was the Lexan and how much space can be allowed between the sheets and the frame to insure it works well to keep the heat in?

I did not drill or stick anything to the case that couldn't easily be removed.  The Lexan was .08 inches.  See my link here to print out the parts and see how to cut your sheet of Lexan.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1588/my- … enclosure/

I used 6 magnets on each of the three sides to hold the doors on (total of 18).  Each side has two  printed magnet holders and two brackets.  Two magnets go directly on the case and one in the magnet holder on the other side of the Lexan.  If you need help let me know and I may put some better directions on the thread.

Rocketman wrote:

Should I assume the link to the photos were using Lexan? Is that tiny hole in the top large enough for the filament to feed in smoothly? It seems like it would be asking for it to get a kink?

If you are talking about my design I believe it was Lexan but the link is provided.  Also the hole is plenty large and actually has helped my spool from getting tangled on larger prints.

Cool. Did you only use magnets or did you actually drill holes in the frame to get the magnets or hinges in places? I'd prefer the less abrasive method if possible. What thickness was the Lexan and how much space can be allowed between the sheets and the frame to insure it works well to keep the heat in?

Should I assume the link to the photos were using Lexan? Is that tiny hole in the top large enough for the filament to feed in smoothly? It seems like it would be asking for it to get a kink?

If you are talking about my design I believe it was Lexan but the link is provided.  Also the hole is plenty large and actually has helped my spool from getting tangled on larger prints.

elmoret wrote:

Cover the 3 sides and top, 12" x 12" lexan is available at Lowes, HD, McMaster, Amazon, etc. You can attach it with magnets.

Not to jack your thread but...

I'm currently setting my print space up so that the spools sit above the printer and feed down through the top, would it be best to leave the top open, or cut a hole in the middle of the Lexan/Plexiglass/whatever I use...

Thanks. This was the obvious question that I was going to ask next.

I have a SD3 . I noticed that the Y carriage ends protrude slightly beyond the case frame, so I can't attach a cover of any kind.
If I did  the Y carriage would drag against what ever I used. Anybody else with a SD3 notice that?

Yes, mine does too.  I have been tilting my side panel out slightly at the bottom, but streaks on the inside of the cover show that I am not always consientious about my adjustment, but it seems not to bother the movement of the head when the panel touches it.

Cheap and effective way, scale it up to suit if you have an SD3

I used custom printed clips to easily attach-detach them to the SD frame.

I am planning to upload the design and share on thingiverse shortly......  I will add pictures also.....