What you can do to get a print that is half good:
1) Clean the nozzle with the litte metal things you got with the Da Vinci
2) Let it extrude
3) Unload filament
4) Cut of the end of the filament and reload (check if now you're getting a nice flow of filament during the loading, if not re-do everything, you have to make sure that the extruder is clean again (as for as we can actually clean it without taking it apart))
5) Print you're part with a raft, on double sided tape or gluestick (the painter tape pads that came with the Da Vinci junior just suck, don't try to put your nozzle closer to the bed it will just make the extruder skip even faster. OF course make sure that you're nozzle is not to far from the bed. Mine is set at 1.1mm, but I think it depends alot from printer to printer)
6) Print you're part at speed: fast with a layer thickness of 0.4mm and infill of 10%
7) Print with the lid open and aim a fan at everything, it will cool the feeder motor and give you're nozzle les chance of overheating.
8) Don't print anything to big because this is not really a solution, and the clogging of the feeder is inevitable.
9) Let us know how it worked out ^^

On this page I also did an explanation of the problem and how I came to my conclusion: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/11092/da … -clicking/

I will add that the manual for the 1.0 explicitly states in bold red that the bed does not need to be leveled as it has been done by the factory. However any 1.0 and up owner will tell you that the beds do not stay level during shipping and will need to be leveled and calibrated.

If possible could one of you Jr. owners take a good pic of the area between the bed and the moving platform it is mounted to. I would like to see how the bed is attached to the Y axis.

They are trying to make a plug and play toaster and there are just too many variables to take into account for true and proper 3d printing.

You don't even have to go to that much trouble to check the leveling. Just go to the settings and have it go to the "home Axis" it will go to the position that it would print in but to the side of the bed. Then go to "Jog mode" and adjust the  Y and X axis so that the the nozzle is over the bed and you can then check it's height relative to the bed. I wouldn't mess with the Z adjustment unless you need to and then do it in 0.1mm increments to find what it's best position is. Then add that adjustment to your Z offset. For example, if you find that you move it closer to the bed by 0.1 mm then subtract 0.1 mm from your Z offset, if you find you move it up by 0.1mm then you add 0.1 mm to the Z-offset.

Not sure if you own an XYZ printer or not. But you cant set an overall z offset and be good. 90% or more of all XYZ printers have a warped bed they are higher in the middle than edges or they may be higher in one corner. You have to use the bed adjusters and level the four corners and center as best you can in relation to the nozzle. An over all offset based on calibration which only accounts for corners may be too high or low for the center.

This reason alone is why most XYZ owners have stopped using the built in calibration feature and favor the manual method. Then there is the issue that the level their algorithm chooses is usually wrong.

The bed to nozzle clearance should be based on the desired layer height. Not some arbitrary number. It should be half or greater than half of your desired layer heighr. Anything less than half will not insure good adhesion.

The printer has no way of knowing the desired layer height during calibration, so this where their application fails along with a warped bed.

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Okay thanks but how do I get the nozzle to lower to check the bed .

Start a print and as soon as exyrusion would normally start. Turn off the power. You can then move the nozzle areound by hand but do it slowly. There is a procedure for bed leveling at the top of the Da Vinci section in this forum. However it was written for the 1.0 so I dont know how it would apply to a jr. model. It might offer some guidance.

What a lot of people do to make sure the bed is parallel to the motion of the machine is to use a piece of paper. Place the paper on the print bed, then move the nozzle down until it is just touching. You should be able to pull the paper back and forth, but feel it dragging slightly on the nozzle end. Proceed to move around the table, making adjustments until the nozzle is just touching the paper everywhere, but not pulling too tight. This will both give you a "level" bed and give you a good value for your bed height Z value.

Edit: I will also take a look at my notes when I get home from work in case I can think of anything else.

This is what I have done to try and remedy these problems but nothing has worked.
reloaded the filament 6 times .
clean the nozzle each time I try and print.
changed filament I have 3 spools they are all the same.
used tape on the bed and also used pritt stick as advised .
checked the bed for level seems ok ish with a small spirit level I haven't used a engineers dial indicator yet though.
ive gone through all the setting changing it 90% fill in and changed it to thick wall and height of 0.1 a upto 0.4 and changed the print to excellent but I am not getting a continuous fill in the print it seems very loose and not compact.
I have also started to print with a raft to see if this makes a difference.

even the 2 lines it does on the right hand side of the bed are broken and seems to splurge out the side when running the print like its to close to the bed , to close for the filament to come out .

Also I have emailed xyz netherland 5 times and also had the supplier who I bought it off get in contact with them no 5 days past and still not heard from them feel like throwing it in the bin please help someone

I have taken numerous pictures of my prints which I think are crap.