Your photo shows the epoxy on the board right? Did u try using after cured.

I thought he said he put it on the glass. There is no board on a Da Vinci bed. It is a very as paper thin printed pattern on adhesive backing stuck to the glass. That is why everyone is so paranoid of the glass breaking through as it could sever the film as well.

In the past I repaired windshields - bullet holes and small cracks (similar to what appeared on my own glass bed). The repairs were done with a kit of parts available from motor factors (e.g.WINDSHIELD GLASS REPAIR KIT STONE DAMAGE CHIP MODEL  on ebay). The repair was supposed to be stronger than the original glass. The liquid once applied needs UV to be cured - which is OK for a windshield out in the sunshine, so the platform needs to be left out in the sun until fully cured - unless of course a UV lamp is available! The excess cured resin can be scraped off level with the glass surface with a sharp razor blade.

I had considered doing that to my glass bed when a hole opened up in the glass, but instead got a piece of glass as used in coal/wood burners. I had it cut to size and so far it has worked very well.

I doubt the windshield repair kit would hold due to the heat.. The glass gets far hotter in the printer then it ever would on a car in the sun..

I had considered doing that to my glass bed when a hole opened up in the glass, but instead got a piece of glass as used in coal/wood burners. I had it cut to size and so far it has worked very well.

Thx

i have attempted to fill the gouges with high temp epoxy. J B Weld is the local brand at jaycar's.
Here is the bed scrapped to get the filling level. Putting the edge to my eye I cannot detect any warping.

Also is this going to be a failed kettle element situation?
I wonder if I should try to sand this out and solder over the area?

Did the expoxy work?

I'm using the Borosilicate glass which is flat and doesn't warp when heated. I use the same company that makes the heaters for the Da Vinci so they fit and work perfectly.

Probably seen it but here is the thread.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9642/da- … th-heater/

Thanks

I have a stock oem bed that is brand new if your looking to buy it. 35$

Is this high temp glass, rather than the Chinese junk?

pricecg44 wrote:

I have the same problem. The first layer printing gets ruined as the nozzle gets caught on the grooves in the glass.

Before I try a replacement I will try to bring scrape out any cracking overhang, and try to fill the glass with some glass crack filler, if that exists. Could it be some high temp epoxy?

The glass is only going to continue to crack and chip regardless of what you do.  The glass is just ordinary plate glass like you would find in a picture frame. It is not designed for the temps and temp changes we are subjecting it to. It should be tempered glass or boroglass which is borosilicate glass that is used for cooking. Sometimes called Pyrex.

The problem is if it actually cracks it could damage the heater and just putting a piece of boro on top like I did would be useless. I plan to get a real heated bed and put the plate of boro glass I have on top of it.

I think the situation is gouging of poor quality glass that has flawed glass. No cracking as such, rather gouging and then flake chipping off that. The gouging is then you have a badly misaligned bed.

I have seen the induction prox sensor and will be going for that (no need for bed leveling) on future machines.

Also is this going to be a failed kettle element situation?
I wonder if I should try to sand this out and solder over the area?

Would an aluminium plate not be just as effective and also heat up quicker?

Or are there other issues I am not aware of with that?

I have the same problem. The first layer printing gets ruined as the nozzle gets caught on the grooves in the glass.

Before I try a replacement I will try to bring scrape out any cracking overhang, and try to fill the glass with some glass crack filler, if that exists. Could it be some high temp epoxy?

The glass is only going to continue to crack and chip regardless of what you do.  The glass is just ordinary plate glass like you would find in a picture frame. It is not designed for the temps and temp changes we are subjecting it to. It should be tempered glass or boroglass which is borosilicate glass that is used for cooking. Sometimes called Pyrex.

The problem is if it actually cracks it could damage the heater and just putting a piece of boro on top like I did would be useless. I plan to get a real heated bed and put the plate of boro glass I have on top of it.