So, tonight, around 10PM (CST) I'll be heading into my office/shop to rebuild the extruder/jig-saw/hot end... wish me luck!!!
I have a question:
Does anyone know who makes the red and blue connectors they are using?
I'd be interested in buying some, for ease of repair.
]]>elmoret wrote:cmetzel wrote:Elmoret has a custom hot end, look through his posts and you'll find it.
This is it:
http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=22
Steps:
1.) Unscrew old hot end from PEEK
2.) Remove thermistor
3.) Assemble new hot end, tighten. (instructions for this are on the qu-bd site, though IMO it's straightforward)
4.) Cut off old connector, and install on new power resistor. I had a spare header from an old motherboard harness, I just used this. The connection up at the stepper is a standard 0.1" pitch
5.) Screw new hot end into PEEKBoom done. $25, and I can swap nozzles easily with a pair of pliers and a wrench. No need to remove the extruder or disassemble the jigsaw anymore.
I thought you had a whole step by step post somewhere with pictures, am I wrong about that?
I may reconsider using this if I have to wait any longer for my replacement parts from SD. I'm growing impatient having to have it sit idle for this long, and I'm losing potential income in the mean time. I wish I could have found the SD heat core somewhere else I would have gone that route. I tried from makergear but after a couple emails with them it wouldn't have shipped until next week so I figured I'd wait for SD.
There is a lot of talk about the J-hot end (or J Head Nozzle @ RepRap]
I'm just wondering what support material is needed to get it aligned and working in the space that SD2 provides.
I'm going to work on getting my leads crimped to another wire and running tonight.
If I come up with a, working, yet simple, solution... I'll post pics.
BTW: jon_bondy... everything that happened to you and you tried I did last night too. I found your post about 12 hours too late. Go figure.
]]>The hot end is $18, but you say $25: what heater did you select to install into the hot end? The good heater is $14, so that ends up more like $32 than $25. Nothing on their site about either the filament diameter or the nozzle diameter. I think this was why I was afraid to even try it.
I was about to buy some JHeads, but the latest crop are only offered for 3 mm filament.
I included shipping when I said $25.
I use the power resistor with no problems. Heater power is around 75%. The only real advantages to the "good" on are faster heatup time, and a better fit in the hole. The power resistor's been fine for me. It's 0.35mm nozzle, 1.75mm filament.
]]>cmetzel wrote:Elmoret has a custom hot end, look through his posts and you'll find it.
This is it:
http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=22
Steps:
1.) Unscrew old hot end from PEEK
2.) Remove thermistor
3.) Assemble new hot end, tighten. (instructions for this are on the qu-bd site, though IMO it's straightforward)
4.) Cut off old connector, and install on new power resistor. I had a spare header from an old motherboard harness, I just used this. The connection up at the stepper is a standard 0.1" pitch
5.) Screw new hot end into PEEKBoom done. $25, and I can swap nozzles easily with a pair of pliers and a wrench. No need to remove the extruder or disassemble the jigsaw anymore.
I thought you had a whole step by step post somewhere with pictures, am I wrong about that?
I may reconsider using this if I have to wait any longer for my replacement parts from SD. I'm growing impatient having to have it sit idle for this long, and I'm losing potential income in the mean time. I wish I could have found the SD heat core somewhere else I would have gone that route. I tried from makergear but after a couple emails with them it wouldn't have shipped until next week so I figured I'd wait for SD.
]]>I was about to buy some JHeads, but the latest crop are only offered for 3 mm filament.
]]>Elmoret has a custom hot end, look through his posts and you'll find it.
This is it:
http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=22
Steps:
1.) Unscrew old hot end from PEEK
2.) Remove thermistor
3.) Assemble new hot end, tighten. (instructions for this are on the qu-bd site, though IMO it's straightforward)
4.) Cut off old connector, and install on new power resistor. I had a spare header from an old motherboard harness, I just used this. The connection up at the stepper is a standard 0.1" pitch
5.) Screw new hot end into PEEK
Boom done. $25, and I can swap nozzles easily with a pair of pliers and a wrench. No need to remove the extruder or disassemble the jigsaw anymore.
]]>Your situation sounds a bit similar to mine, although in my case, it is clear that something actually heated up and fried the connectors (they are distorted and blackened). The resistor wires came out of the connectors, perhaps because the connectors were softened by the heat. I shoved the resistor wires back into the connectors, and then used a pair of pliers to actually crimp the entire connector. That worked for a few hours, after which the resistor failed (resistance went from 5 to about 33, at which point it stopped being a heater).
I tried soldering the resistor wires to the connectors, but the solder failed (again, probably because of the heat that the resistor is supposed to put out). Some have had success making a mechanical connection with the resistor wires (wrapping wires around the ends) and then soldering a short wire onto them and then plugging those wires into a connector.
Pololu sells jumper wires that work quite well, such as those on this page: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/65
You would select a jumper with a male and female on both ends, cut off the male, solder that end to the resistor, and then plug the female into the existing connector (the one that runs to the controller. Or you could run these wires all the way to the controller. You would need both a 12" and a 6" wire to make it all the way to the controller. I am currently using such wires to run the hot end on the only Solidoodle that still works here.
I also have some hot ends heading my way. I intend to return the two failed units so that Solidoodle can try to figure out what the failure mode is. They know that something is wrong in a few cases, but are not sure what that might be. Could be that some resistors are a bit low (meaning that they heat up too much); could be that some power supplies are a bit high (again increasing the heat).
I know how frustrating this can be!
Jon
]]>I've had my printer less than 2 weeks and printed less than 15 things.
My failure came on day 9... let me say that again... day 9.
I'm now being told that I have to wait for a week or so for a replacement hot end.
I even offered to pay to have it FedEx'd for Monday delivery...
...but alas I still am waiting.
Here's a funny question...
Does anyone know who manufactures the connector that is failing? I'd be interested in buying some to see if they are all "crap".
If anyone can think of a solution to this issue... before I get a new hot-end (which sounds like it may fail too) please let me know.
Thanks everyone, in advance, for your help.
Capn.
How many of your prints are 5 or 10 hour prints? All prints are not created equal! <grin>
Just printed a 7 hour 0.1mm layer, piston last night. Without any issues. I have had a couple of parts warping and unsticking, but that was down to a misconfigured G-Code fan setting. So it was always running the fan, overcooling the part causing it to warp.
Simple (no complex overhangs, no narrow base compared to top) 0.3mm prints rarely cause me problems now, 0.1mm is a bit more problematic, but I think I have the worst of all all resolved now. Occasionally I will get the anchor failing to stick and getting dragged into the print, and screwing it up right at the first layer.
Will post some pictures of the piston up soon, as it can always be improved!
]]>Doodlers, @jon_bondy
Concerning hot ends: We have been looking into this with more detail to provide better solutions for our users. If some are not aware, we are transitioning using a new design for our hot end. For the most part, we have seen success from our users new/old. For those experiencing difficulty, we have been stress testing the new hot ends again and working with our quality assurance team to provide success with the new design. While every users situation may be different, be advised that we are looking into the matter and would love to hear from those experiencing challenges. support@solidoodle.com
Beginner/Expert, new or old user, we are striving to make your printing experience a great one.
An amazing start to all of your New Years!
I was beginning to think Solidoodle no longer posted on this forum. Last post was like a month ago. Welcome back
]]>And then the hot end, the 2nd new Solidoodle hot end, failed AGAIN. ARGH. I say ARGH.
Without getting too bogged down with details, let me say that Solidoodle called me, asked me for details about the problems I was having, and immediately offered to get some additional new hot ends to me quickly. I seem to have stumbled upon a rare but known problem with the new hot ends. We will see how it works out.
]]>Concerning hot ends: We have been looking into this with more detail to provide better solutions for our users. If some are not aware, we are transitioning using a new design for our hot end. For the most part, we have seen success from our users new/old. For those experiencing difficulty, we have been stress testing the new hot ends again and working with our quality assurance team to provide success with the new design. While every users situation may be different, be advised that we are looking into the matter and would love to hear from those experiencing challenges. support@solidoodle.com
Beginner/Expert, new or old user, we are striving to make your printing experience a great one.
An amazing start to all of your New Years!
]]>