jeff jenkins wrote:carl_m1968 wrote:For PLA you should try just bare clean hot glass at around 80 to 90. My old printer designed for PLA only used hot glass with no treatment and it stuck like glue till cooled.
I will give it a shot. would be nice not to have to clean glue off of the glass. lol but what are you using for routine glass cleaning?? ive have good luck with 70% rubbing alchohol.
I use 90% IPA alcohol for the non-versed. Then regular glass cleaner. I also use Viva paper towels. They are more expensive but leave less lint then other paper towels. The issue I found with just IPA is it seems to leave a film behind and that has impacted my first layer adhesion on occasion. Also the same rule for first layer thickness applies to PLA as well. It should be squished to half of your desired layer height. For example a 2.0mm layer height needs a first layer that is squished to .1 for optimum layer adhesion.
I use uhu glue stick and Windex to clean it off, it is surprising how well these two work together. Also I have never had adhesion issues with the uhu and abs, pla, or taulman for my first layer, my issue comes after the first layer usually with anything other than ABS
]]>eriemaker wrote:carl_m1968 wrote:The DUO has the newer heads to my knowledge. So that might be why you are having no issues. Remember the 1.0 was out for about 6 months before the DUO.
I am running the DUO as well with the zero cart, but using slic3r. I tried 190/195 and I got the clicking and the filament swelled up. This just goes to show you how different each printer can be. I am going to try 190 first layer and 185 second, but Jeff what temp are you using for your bed?
did you tape the optic sensors on your extruders?? I think you were getting the clicking noise because your sensor couldn't really see the filament as well and caused it not to feed with the same rate as if it were to see the filament properly causing a jam.
Jeff,
Thank you for all the info! I may try this, but I seriously doubt that's my issue. My PLA is not translucent and is blue so it should be able to see it. Also from what I read the clicking is the extruder slipping because the filament is jamming up in the head (usually from heat creeping up). You are also correct about the filament, but if you have bridge Nylon printing, im assuming we have the same material there, so maybe I should tape my sensors off and try again.
Thanks again!
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:jeff jenkins wrote:My bed temps are 75c but I am also coating the glass with elmers purple glue stick. which has also been working very well on abs and I printed bridge nylon last night with no warping and 245c extruder temp and 100c bed temp but I got some more tuning to do with the bridge as my bed temp was too hot and I think my extruder temps were too hot as well. here is a pic of the suspension arm I printed in bridge nylon. note this is the only part I printed with it and didn't have time to play but the print was 40min. just to test it.
For PLA you should try just bare clean hot glass at around 80 to 90. My old printer designed for PLA only used hot glass with no treatment and it stuck like glue till cooled.
I will give it a shot. would be nice not to have to clean glue off of the glass. lol but what are you using for routine glass cleaning?? ive have good luck with 70% rubbing alchohol.
I use 90% IPA alcohol for the non-versed. Then regular glass cleaner. I also use Viva paper towels. They are more expensive but leave less lint then other paper towels. The issue I found with just IPA is it seems to leave a film behind and that has impacted my first layer adhesion on occasion. Also the same rule for first layer thickness applies to PLA as well. It should be squished to half of your desired layer height. For example a 2.0mm layer height needs a first layer that is squished to .1 for optimum layer adhesion.
]]>jeff jenkins wrote:My bed temps are 75c but I am also coating the glass with elmers purple glue stick. which has also been working very well on abs and I printed bridge nylon last night with no warping and 245c extruder temp and 100c bed temp but I got some more tuning to do with the bridge as my bed temp was too hot and I think my extruder temps were too hot as well. here is a pic of the suspension arm I printed in bridge nylon. note this is the only part I printed with it and didn't have time to play but the print was 40min. just to test it.
For PLA you should try just bare clean hot glass at around 80 to 90. My old printer designed for PLA only used hot glass with no treatment and it stuck like glue till cooled.
I will give it a shot. would be nice not to have to clean glue off of the glass. lol but what are you using for routine glass cleaning?? ive have good luck with 70% rubbing alchohol.
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:jeff jenkins wrote:I forgot to say im using a da vinci duo 2.0
The DUO has the newer heads to my knowledge. So that might be why you are having no issues. Remember the 1.0 was out for about 6 months before the DUO.
I am running the DUO as well with the zero cart, but using slic3r. I tried 190/195 and I got the clicking and the filament swelled up. This just goes to show you how different each printer can be. I am going to try 190 first layer and 185 second, but Jeff what temp are you using for your bed?
did you tape the optic sensors on your extruders?? I think you were getting the clicking noise because your sensor couldn't really see the filament as well and caused it not to feed with the same rate as if it were to see the filament properly causing a jam.
]]>My bed temps are 75c but I am also coating the glass with elmers purple glue stick. which has also been working very well on abs and I printed bridge nylon last night with no warping and 245c extruder temp and 100c bed temp but I got some more tuning to do with the bridge as my bed temp was too hot and I think my extruder temps were too hot as well. here is a pic of the suspension arm I printed in bridge nylon. note this is the only part I printed with it and didn't have time to play but the print was 40min. just to test it.
For PLA you should try just bare clean hot glass at around 80 to 90. My old printer designed for PLA only used hot glass with no treatment and it stuck like glue till cooled.
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:jeff jenkins wrote:I forgot to say im using a da vinci duo 2.0
The DUO has the newer heads to my knowledge. So that might be why you are having no issues. Remember the 1.0 was out for about 6 months before the DUO.
I am running the DUO as well with the zero cart, but using slic3r. I tried 190/195 and I got the clicking and the filament swelled up. This just goes to show you how different each printer can be. I am going to try 190 first layer and 185 second, but Jeff what temp are you using for your bed?
When I had my 3Dstuffmaker that was designed for PLA the typical bed temp was 80 to 90 on bare glass. PLA sticks very well to bate untreated glass and pops right off once cool.
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:jeff jenkins wrote:I forgot to say im using a da vinci duo 2.0
The DUO has the newer heads to my knowledge. So that might be why you are having no issues. Remember the 1.0 was out for about 6 months before the DUO.
I am running the DUO as well with the zero cart, but using slic3r. I tried 190/195 and I got the clicking and the filament swelled up. This just goes to show you how different each printer can be. I am going to try 190 first layer and 185 second, but Jeff what temp are you using for your bed?
When I had my 3Dstuffmaker that was designed for PLA the typical bed temp was 80 to 90 on bare glass. PLA sticks very well to bate untreated glass and pops right off once cool.
]]>jeff jenkins wrote:I forgot to say im using a da vinci duo 2.0
The DUO has the newer heads to my knowledge. So that might be why you are having no issues. Remember the 1.0 was out for about 6 months before the DUO.
I am running the DUO as well with the zero cart, but using slic3r. I tried 190/195 and I got the clicking and the filament swelled up. This just goes to show you how different each printer can be. I am going to try 190 first layer and 185 second, but Jeff what temp are you using for your bed?
]]>I forgot to say im using a da vinci duo 2.0
The DUO has the newer heads to my knowledge. So that might be why you are having no issues. Remember the 1.0 was out for about 6 months before the DUO.
]]>Ive had my printer for about a month maybe.
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:eriemaker wrote:Hello all,
I wanted to reach out and see what you guys thought on something....I have a XYZerocart from wctek.com therefore when I change to say PLA from ABS, I can connect using bluetooth and change the printhead temps and bed temps. Recently I have been thinking this may not be necessary because I am using slic3r and can adjust the settings in there.
This means that if I am printing PLA at 195, but my extruder is setup for ABS at 212, it will warm up to 212, then cool down to 195 because of the gcode from slic3r correct?
If you have a Da Vinci 1.0 or 2.0 they are not currently capable of printing in PLA. It has nothing to do with temperature. The current head is not compatible. There is a thread on seasoning the head with oil but I have only seen two post in there attempting it and only one has success. The head needs to be completely changed to something like the E3D and that requires a complete new carriage as well. It is rumored that next year they will sell PLA ready heads but till then your only option it replace the head with something after market.
i have been successfully printing pla and transparent pla now Using the stock hotend. I taped the optic sensors and use 190-195 extruder temps
How long have you had yours? Its possible you have one of the newer heads. Mine is the second gen. Old board but missing jumper and I am afraid to try PLA in it due to the horror stories of ruined heads. I do however have Rep firmware installed and running Rep host.
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