But yeah, if I'll go to Slic3r settings -> Print Settings -> Advanced I can change the "extrusion width" of the plastic for different things like perimeters and support material. And support material's width for me is set to "0.31", which is thinner than my nozzle hole diameter, so I guess it's possible.

Next question i guess is, how low can you go for 0.4 nozzle in practice with the default speed? Anyone experimented enough willing to give advice on what to try and more importantly what not to try?

I'd like for example to have thicker infill for more rigid print, say 0.6, but 0.2 for the "top solid infill" for smoother look.
But wouldn't want to clog my hotend from doing something wrong which is common knowledge for other people.

BTW, kind of sad you can't set the diameter for "bottom solid infill" as well, for objects with overhangs where you want the bottom to look higher res too like the top.

so depending on object being printed and desired finish a nozzle size change may be needed to achieve best results. just takes lots of trial and error to find the 'happy spot' for an object. thats why many of us have dozens of slicer profiles etc.

http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math

n2ri wrote:

most settings can make 1 size nozzle do most prints that nozzles of slightly bigger/smaller size do.

I used to think otherwise, but now Im not really sure. How can you make a 0.4mm nozzle print at 0.3mm width? Not talking about settings, just how is it physically possible?

elmoret wrote:

n2ri wrote:

Elmoret can tell you how much each nozzle costs but they are a fine machined part so not pennies.

E3D nozzles are $9, same as Solidoodle's nozzles.

Here's some Solidoodle hotend compatible nozzles in smaller diameter:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Plus-Nozzle- … 33823c9d93

They are also $9.

Thanks elmoret.
How do you find out if specific nozzle is campatible with Solidoodle's?

slicer settings for one. feed rate versus speed etc. Wardjr does it ok with a .6mm nozzle.

as a test try extruding while extruder is parked and grab filament as its extruding and pull it like taffy b4 it cools it will stretch and shrink thinner than human hair. thats how  the kind of slicer settings used to produce thinner parameters with consistent results when flow rates are calibrated correct in firmware.

I been making ABS Whip CB antennae for model cars like that since the 70s by heating plastic model sprues and stretching then thin 9 scale feet then store them pre-cut in metal Cigar tubes to protect them till used.

not all prints can be done well this way, depends what you are trying to print and how tiny of detail or if it has lots of thin curved walls like a single layer vase etc. thats why other size nozzles are used. I may get as small as .15mm for my nano mini items or use a resin or powder type printer that are better able to do such microscopic details.

of coarse I been crazy for tiny detailed scale items for years with my hobby so I am likely in the 1% of such mad men out there LOL.

most settings can make 1 size nozzle do most prints that nozzles of slightly bigger/smaller size do.

I used to think otherwise, but now Im not really sure. How can you make a 0.4mm nozzle print at 0.3mm width? Not talking about settings, just how is it physically possible?

Thanks elmoret.
How do you find out if specific nozzle is campatible with Solidoodle's?

Elmoret can tell you how much each nozzle costs but they are a fine machined part so not pennies.

E3D nozzles are $9, same as Solidoodle's nozzles.

Here's some Solidoodle hotend compatible nozzles in smaller diameter:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Plus-Nozzle- … 33823c9d93

They are also $9.

When you have the cash, don't even think about it. Just grab your credit card and buy it. No matter what obstacles you face when upgrading, it will all be a laughable and fading memory once you see your results.

Of course, Filastruder sells E3Ds as well as nozzles.. http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ … -nozzle-v6

Since this thread turned into an e3d ad, I might as well ask: is it easily swappable with the stock Solidoodle 4 hotend? (no modification to the printrboard motherboard, the extruder, etc)

But again I wouldn't like spending $60ish for just changing the nozzle diameter. I know e3d can do all sorts of other magical stuff, but I don't need them currently.

You'll want to print up an mk5 for the e3d (search here and thingiverse) and get a 625zz bearing for the tension arm. You can try to use just the bottom of the mk5 and put the stock extruder with spring on top, but I've done it and I think it's just a waste of time. You will have feeding problems, most likely. Adjustable tension for the extruder is better in every way, anyway; you want enough tension to have the right amount of pull from the extruder motor.

No other modifications needed except splicing the heater cartridge into the stock wiring (easy).  The thermistor connects the same way to the printrboard.  A couple firmware changes which are well documented on e3d-online and filastruder.

The e3d is one of the simplest upgrades one can do to MASSIVELY improve output quality and you handicap yourself by not switching to the e3d or some other all-metal hotend. What's the point of any other upgrades if the hotend is average? A great printer demands a great print head. I'd argue even if you don't swap nozzle sizes you should get an e3d. You simply don't know what you're missing until you get one. It is accurate, does not ooze whatsoever, and is nearly impossible to clog due to its short melting zone.

I even printed with mine assembled all wrong for a while (hundreds of hours and several spools)  to where it started leaking burnt plastic out the top and it still didn't clog

Since this thread turned into an e3d ad, I might as well ask: is it easily swappable with the stock Solidoodle 4 hotend? (no modification to the printrboard motherboard, the extruder, etc)

But again I wouldn't like spending $60ish for just changing the nozzle diameter. I know e3d can do all sorts of other magical stuff, but I don't need them currently.

well from my experience and what others say. I dont know why you would want smaller nozzles if your not doing exotic materials or nano details like some of mine. my SD2 has a .35mm and is main reason I wont chance clogs using PLA again as that is common on smaller than .4mm nozzles and SD standard hot ends cant be torn down to drill out the crystallized PLA without destroying the hot end. as many SD nozzles are installed so they cant be removed. either lock tight of punched like a lock nut etc. also not all nozzles are same thread size for interchangeability. but E3Dv6 is a common size used by other companies giving more selection than just what they sell. also with orifice drill sets you can turn a slightly smaller sized nozzle into other sizes between that nozzle and the next. dont know why you would need to but its possible just recalibrate flow settings. most settings can make 1 size nozzle do most prints that nozzles of slightly bigger/smaller size do.