]]>but blue painters tape is my go to thing if i ever get adhesion troubles.
]]>ggunners wrote:I just use an Elmer's Glue Stick. Easy on, easy touch-ups, if you want to clean it off, that's easy too, just run it under warm water for awhile. If using on glass, remove the glass, let it cool in about 2 minutes and the largest prints just pop right off.
with ABS or PLA ?
With ABS, haven't tried PLA yet. Figure I need a fan mounted for that and many people recommend blue painters tape with PLA + fan.
]]>I'll join in the +1 on ward's trick, I think that is very clever. I started with 1/8in glass and hairspray. I next went to the acetone and abs mix which does an amazing job, not a single print even started coming loose. It tends to make a mess after each print though, on the part itself and on the bed. I tried the blue painters tape which i'm currently doing, it's awesome for quickly starting new prints with no mess.
I'm going to try the hair spray underneath since my clips do seem to warp the glass according to my dial indicator.
Just remember it takes 2 or 3 heat cool cycles to stick the glass to the bed well. I have made the mistake of trying to hurry the process. Ended up trying to figure out why my motors were suddenly skipping. Turned out the glass was sliding around and I could see the hairspray still bubbling under the glass.
]]>I just use an Elmer's Glue Stick. Easy on, easy touch-ups, if you want to clean it off, that's easy too, just run it under warm water for awhile. If using on glass, remove the glass, let it cool in about 2 minutes and the largest prints just pop right off.
with ABS or PLA ?
]]>I'm going to try the hair spray underneath since my clips do seem to warp the glass according to my dial indicator.
]]>]]>+1 convert to wardjr's hairspray underneath trick (kapton's still on the bed underneath). It's pretty well attached (it's not going to move unless you drive the nozzle into the side of it).
Even then... I have a couple of small chips out of the side of my glass from doing just that 
the screw on the back wall of the printer youll need to TIGHTEN it so the nozzle dosent hit the glass. i have 1/8th inch on mine its thick but i like it better than the thinner glass. to keep the glass on the bed you can use those big office bulldog clips. also called binder clips. i use 2 of them some people use 3. aqual net workd i like RAVE 4x mega anything with plastic polymers will work ( acrylates, vinyls ,polyurethane -copolymers) just read the ingredients
also some people claim spraying hairspray on the bottom of the glass will keep it secure to the bed .... i personally wouldnt trust that
Actually it is me that keeps saying spray the underside of the glass and run it through a couple heat cool cycles. Binders or clips pose many issues. Head crashing into them and the glass actually warping are the two main reasons for not using clips. Since the purpose of the glass it to create a perfectly flat surface it really doesn't make much sense to make it conform to a warped bed. A few good coats nice and thick and it will stick to the bed just fine.
]]>also some people claim spraying hairspray on the bottom of the glass will keep it secure to the bed .... i personally wouldnt trust that
]]>Glass bed thread: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/160/glass-bed/
Basically get a piece of glass cut to 8*8" (I use about 3/32" thick (2.4mm)), use 2 binderclips to attach it to the bed, and then adjust the screw by the z-axis endstop in order to accommodate the higher printbed.
]]>Sorry, yes I meant bed at 105. Extruder 215.
So "glass & hairspray" lol? As in a piece of glass on the pad, sprayed with Aqua-Net?
Is there a wiki or "how to" post somewhere? I suspect you'd need to re-calibrate the pad home to account for the additional height?
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