As for checking ohms on the hotend just pull the plug (1,2) straight down maybe wiggle it a bit it will come off then with your meter set to the horseshoe(ohms) setting and the leads plugged in to the 'COM' and the 'HZ V~-...' check on the '1' and '2' if it shows open=very high ohms then either the hot end is burned out or the connections to the hot end are 'open' broken(bad connection)

So '1' and '2' are both of the 2 connection associated with "H" in the back? I don't take one meter wire to the back and one to near the hot end to see how well electricity passes through? I am unable to seperate the red wire near the extruder. Only take the "H" wire out of its sleeve.

Just checked the link you posted the'H' is the same as my picture 1,2 or the 'PT' written in marking pen in my picture.

Since you got 12 volts at the 'H' your main board is most likely good at least as far as the hot end is concerned.

So wait, I should change one of the cord into the meter to the "A" slot? For volts it looked like the manual wanted the black in the "com" and the red in the "HZ V -|(- [horse shoe shape]." lol. So is there a way to remove the red cord at the extruder to test it from that end? I can't seem to seperate it at that end.

I measure Ohms when at the hot end? Will that be with the meter set to the horse show shape? And how will the cords be rearranged on the meter?

Since you got 12 volts at the 'H' your main board is most likely good at least as far as the hot end is concerned.

The "H" in back tested at 12.75 volts. Is there a special way to open up the red wire at the hot end? I don't know how to remove it without tearing something in the process.

Yes, unplug what is listed as 1,2 on my picture then test the plug that you unplugged with the ohm meter part of your multi meter

Btw: I was referring to your meter when I referenced the 'A' connection, I d/l'ed the manual for it.

Here are some quick checks to make to see if your main board is working or not.
Test points 1 and 2 to check for hotend heater voltage working at main board.

Test points 3 and 4 to check for bed heater voltage at main board.

Test points 5 and 6 for 12 volt power supply in to printer.

you will want to use the V with dotted and solid lines, this is the DC volt range also most volt meters these days doesn't matter which side is '+; or '-' the meter will indicate 'reverse' with a '-' sign in front of the readout. The OL probably indicates out of range... iin other words you need to select a range higher than you are on... 0-20 Volts instead of 0-2 volts... not sure here am just guessing because I don't know what specific meter you have

I got a $60 Amprobe AM-60 at Lowe's.

What does the "V" with the wave line over it mean? When I did tell the extruder to heat up unlike before it seemed to go from having small decimal numbers right to zero when it should be on. I don't suppose you know if there are general technicians one can go to to have stuff worked on? I am worried now that the board in the back burned out or something. I am seriously worried that if that is the case the printer as a whole has less than half value if I had to sell it for parts.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/636/hot- … to-repair/

Problem being the manual isn't helping me understand how the multimeter works very well. I don't know which side of the "H" plug is to be touched by the plus side versus the minus side, and so far haven't gotten the number 12 on the meter. I don't know if I am to turn the meter to "V" with a wave over it or a "V" with a dotted line over it, and a solid line over that. While telling the software to try heating the extruder up I get a beep and the notice, ".0L" I manual makes it seem like that could be either good or bad. Help???