Probably less prone to clogging.  If it works, that would probably cut down on the support requests a lot.  If they had done done it a few months ago, that one guy wouldn't have needed to sell his entire printer because he got a clogged nozzle.

I don't understand why it would make a difference to be honest unless something else in the internal geometry of the nozzle changed as well.  You're talking about a difference of .05mm diameter, which is less than .002".  There's got to be more to it.

Probably less prone to clogging.  If it works, that would probably cut down on the support requests a lot.  If they had done done it a few months ago, that one guy wouldn't have needed to sell his entire printer because he got a clogged nozzle.

Funny. I think in a worst case scenrio, I would have spent the $59 on a complete new hote end than take the loss on selling a printer over a clogged nozzle. I guess some people like to invest some time in new technology and others don't. I've been frustrated with mine due to clogs and other "events" but haven't thought about selling it once.

The .40 nozzles are shipping with S3 and S2

Can you speak to the reason this change was made?  What problem does it fix or was it a supply chain decision?

Will .4mm work for Laywoo-d3? And are the .4mms for Sd2 or Sd3s?

Final question, would I need to make any modifications to the SD2 to print in taulmans? Thanks

Ladywoo:
We have some samples laying around. We've tried it in the printer with both nozzles to varying degrees of success. IMO it is simply a matter of dialing in the settings. The filament has a propensity to clog, but this could be something we are doing wrong to handle it.

Taulman: I can't speak for Taulman specifically. We have a few Nylon filament sources laying about for testing, including the special plastic bed. We didn't have much luck with an out of the box nylon to Solidoodle print, but I'm sure that if we fiddled with the settings we could get it working. Our experiences were similar to other Solidoodle users who had used the Nylon without tweaking the settings.

We'll let you guys know if the Nylon is up to snuff as far as we are concerned.

The .40 nozzles are shipping with S3 and S2

Final question, would I need to make any modifications to the SD2 to print in taulmans? Thanks

adrian wrote:

The nylon works if you use a phenolic or garolite bed, but you'll need to mask some off to ensure it doesn't weld permanently to the bed. Read http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/ for further details.

Laywoo-D3 works, but not with the standard nozzle. Laywoo recommend the use of a .5 nozzle to avoid clogs, and when its been tested with the SD's standard .35 nozzle, it will clog. So you can print it, but will need to change the hotend/nozzle.

We're changing to a .4 nozzle.

As of when?

Again, it would be really helpful to maintain a public database or listing of these changes!

The nylon works if you use a phenolic or garolite bed, but you'll need to mask some off to ensure it doesn't weld permanently to the bed. Read http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/ for further details.

Laywoo-D3 works, but not with the standard nozzle. Laywoo recommend the use of a .5 nozzle to avoid clogs, and when its been tested with the SD's standard .35 nozzle, it will clog. So you can print it, but will need to change the hotend/nozzle.

We're changing to a .4 nozzle.

You will definitely get HCN and CO offgassing from Nylon at temperatures around 400C. You could get to 400C with a 40w heater in the hotend and a failed thermistor....

Which is pretty much relevant to ABS as well since it will get to its auto-ignition temprature over 400C as well..

So I'd suggest that in *normal* operation its not a problem.. in *abnormal* operation - anythings a problem and all bets are off anyway since your SD would likely catch fire at that point anyway (not to mention your PEEK would fail anyway and the barrel would have just slid out, removing the heater block and the 'problem' (of it being fed nylon or ABS) with it  )

If we are working with worst-case-scenarios, we should also consider what would happen if your whole house caught fire, or a meteor landed, or nuclear war broke out, etc (I'm being sarcastic - you do have a valid point, but its valid with any plastic really, and so is no more a risk than using ABS etc and carries just as much likelyhood, as I tried to demonstrate with humor )

http://www.chemspider.com/Chemical-Structure.278.html