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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — PETG]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/14432/" />
	<updated>2016-04-05T18:27:26Z</updated>
	<generator>PunBB</generator>
	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/14432/petg/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/120539/#p120539" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>Hecot wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>Is the drive gear slipping or what you mean by &quot;clicking&quot; extruder? </p><p>I have a slightly modified hotend (<a href="http://www.soliforum.com/topic/14386/modified-hot-end-davinci-10/">http://www.soliforum.com/topic/14386/mo … avinci-10/</a>) that prints PETG very well! I use FormFuturas HDGlass Filament <a href="http://www.formfutura.com/hdglass/">http://www.formfutura.com/hdglass/</a> and run it at very low temperatures about 200°C that works great! When I use higher temperatures the print will not get clear so you can not look thru! For the first layer I&#039;m using 235°C so it will stick well to the bed!</p></blockquote></div><p>It should not be clear, translucent yes but not clear. Think of stained glass. It should pass light but you should not be able to make out what is behind it. The stuff I buy has a min temp of 235 so I would seriously wonder if yours is even reaching full transitional temp. PETG is supposed to be nearly as strong as polycarbonate but at only 200 I am not sure your layer bond is as strong as it could be.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[carl_m1968]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/7731/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2016-04-05T18:27:26Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/120539/#p120539</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/120532/#p120532" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Here is a test square of PETG (Sainsmart from Amazon) run with bed at 80C and stock nozzle at 235C. This ran prefectly on my DV Pro.</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://soliforum.com/i/?zgVh3rs.jpg" alt="http://soliforum.com/i/?zgVh3rs.jpg" /></span></p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[PrinterNinja]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/5998/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2016-04-05T16:30:43Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/120532/#p120532</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/120222/#p120222" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Is the drive gear slipping or what you mean by &quot;clicking&quot; extruder? </p><p>I have a slightly modified hotend (<a href="http://www.soliforum.com/topic/14386/modified-hot-end-davinci-10/">http://www.soliforum.com/topic/14386/mo … avinci-10/</a>) that prints PETG very well! I use FormFuturas HDGlass Filament <a href="http://www.formfutura.com/hdglass/">http://www.formfutura.com/hdglass/</a> and run it at very low temperatures about 200°C that works great! When I use higher temperatures the print will not get clear so you can not look thru! For the first layer I&#039;m using 235°C so it will stick well to the bed!</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Hecot]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/13821/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2016-03-30T13:07:25Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/120222/#p120222</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/120209/#p120209" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>Telemachus wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>I don&#039;t know why I am dragging my feet on the E3D...</p></blockquote></div><p>I can&#039;t recommend it highly enough, the difference in print quality is like night and day.<br />Plus, you have way more compatibilty with different types of filament.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[scobo]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6872/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2016-03-30T07:20:54Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/120209/#p120209</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/120208/#p120208" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Yeah, at first I was excited because it seemed to be working.&nbsp; After a while, just clicking.</p><p>I don&#039;t know why I am dragging my feet on the E3D...</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Telemachus]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/13355/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2016-03-30T06:44:04Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/120208/#p120208</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/120205/#p120205" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I think it&#039;s highly unlikely you&#039;ll be able to print petg if you can&#039;t print pla.<br />With the right mod, it should work but the only way to gaurantee it is to switch the hotend to something like an E3D.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[scobo]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6872/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2016-03-30T06:26:52Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/120205/#p120205</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/120203/#p120203" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>Telemachus wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>My stock 1.0A has no luck with PLA.&nbsp; After the first layer, just clicks.&nbsp; I have not added any fans or heatsinks, other than a layer fan for occasional ABS that needs it.</p><p>I have a roll of pretty PETG that I would love to print with.</p><p>Any chance of doing that with stock, maybe at 240&#039; (it says 230-250 on box).</p><p>Or am I in for a big mess?</p></blockquote></div><p>I have to run PETG on my printer at 255 but I am not using an XYZ now. My CT&#039;c is calibrated in regards to temp as confirmed by thermal imaging so I know the temp is correct.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[carl_m1968]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/7731/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2016-03-30T03:08:10Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/120203/#p120203</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[PETG]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/120197/#p120197" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>My stock 1.0A has no luck with PLA.&nbsp; After the first layer, just clicks.&nbsp; I have not added any fans or heatsinks, other than a layer fan for occasional ABS that needs it.</p><p>I have a roll of pretty PETG that I would love to print with.</p><p>Any chance of doing that with stock, maybe at 240&#039; (it says 230-250 on box).</p><p>Or am I in for a big mess?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Telemachus]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/13355/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2016-03-30T01:08:30Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/120197/#p120197</id>
		</entry>
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