I have been in contact with the solidoodle people and they suggest I switch the extruder and z print wires. I see wires but don't know which wire is which. Does McGyverX's under the kimono have a wiring  diagram? I have a basic understanding of electronics... Can this be done by a novice?

Easy enough. They probably mean to try using the Z driver on the extruder motor:
*Slide the extruder over near the Z motor (top back middle of printer, shaft points down).
*With the printer **OFF**, unplug the harness from the Z motor and plug it into the extruder.
*Then with the printer on, and extruder heated, do a Z move using the tools menu, or G91 then G0 Z20 F10.

This should extrude.  Be sure not to home or do XY moves this way, or you'll yank the cable out of the extruder.  Note the results, and reurn everything to normal. (Don't switch wires with power on).

BTW,  not needed for the exercise, but on the board, the drivers are clearly marked X, Y, Z, & E, with the nearest plug matching that driver.

@ annalenhartmurray,

I hope you are having success at printing; but a further thought:

If in fact your Z-probing is hit or miss, it may pay to closely inspect the wiring within the probe and switch and back to the controller for any loose or bad connections.  Since the probe moves, a connection problem could be likely.

And inspect the mechanical path of the probe to make sure the probe is reliab;y and repeatably extending.

I hope you are having success at printing; but a further thought:

If in fact your Z-probing is hit or miss, it may pay to closely inspect the wiring within the probe and switch and back to the controller for any loose or bad connections.  Since the probe moves, a connection problem could be likely.

Just for information, I noticed you comment that clicking on "Z+" in RH made the bed move downwards. This is the CORRECT behaviour. I know it's not very intuitive, but by lowering the bed, you are "effectively" raising the extruder... Confused me for a bit as well.

Yes!  A throwback to the origins of G-code which was developed primarily (and still does) to drive CNC machines; the Z representing in most cases the vertical spindle which holds the cutter which travels in the Z axis.

In the case of 3D printers, it is usually the table that is traveling in the Z Axis..hence the inversion.

You may have seen this already, but the extruder issue is discussed here:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9314/ini … -fix-them/

Double-check the set screw on the drive gear again, and yes, it does seem like your auto-leveling worked this time.  You may also want to run the Z-Offset calibration posted above.

And glad to see your glass is clamped onto the heater!

What is the vref? Will tightening the gear drive help? The z-calibration I ran seem to work well... but you saw what happened when I tried to print something after that.

I have reversed the fan on the extruder, adjusted the trim pots, moved the wires over with a rubber band.. etc...

I am printing with Push ABS plastic at 235 and bed at 100... I didn't have any problems until z probe started to go wonky

Should I try to post a video of the gear drive doing this?

The glass is best kept in the slot, close to the bed heater...which leads me to my next question: So if you are clamping the glass on top of the metal rails, then how is your heater contacting the bottom of the glass?

1. yes,  the printer went through the 9 point leveling process. Do I need to manually adjust bed? I am using glass from hardware store held on with 2 binder clips at front of bed only. Could this be causing it to be so uneven?

It can't be helping!  I thought the glass slid in like this:

Keep an eye on that for sure...Q. - if you just turn the printer power on without commanding the bed to heat up, does it start heating on its own?

2. No I am not sure. The bed temp was stuck on 88.3 for 3-5 minutes so I opened soliprint or RH I don't remember which... it said 200 so I immediately turn off printer and let cool down. I printed again after and it seemed to work. I don't think it was the extruder temp because it was turned off... but I cant ever be sure.

If you are able to run a print, this is a good thing...
Your bed is terribly not level to the extruder.

Q.  When you initiate a print, does the printer go through the 9 point leveling process?

200 degrees C is almost not attainable by the heat bed; are you sure that's not the extruder temp?

I manually extended the z probe and the machine started to print again, but it still acting weird the bed is now very uneven. The printer will only work in parts of bed . I printed a small print and I thought everything would be okay so I tried to print something bigger. The prints are shown below.
I tried different sizes etc. at one point the bed temperature reAd over 200 degrees. I turned it off, let it rest and tried again to the uneven again. Could this be related to z probe issue?