Very nice but I should have clarified that I'm more interested in anyone who has gotten the full graphic smart controller working with their RUMBA and solidoodle firmware.

Sorry md, I was actually posting for OP since he was asking for help with the exact setup i have.  Where did you get your library that's needed to be installed?  They have it linked in my firmware.

// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_F … Controller
//
// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: http://code.google.com/p/u8glib/wiki/u8glib
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

Also, you should have that last line uncommented to define the correct LCD.  This is from line 583 in my Configuration.h on the firmware i'm running.

EDIT:  Further investigation shows just above these lines of LCD's there are a few defines you can uncomment for some settings.

//#define DOGLCD  // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)

I can't confirm but I'm fairly certain you should have that uncommented for your LCD as well as the one I already mentioned.  @ line 556 in my configuration.h.

Bumping this to see if you ever got the display working on the RUMBA?  To the best of my knowledge, no one has ever actually got a display to work with solidoodle firmware and a RUMBA and I would love to be proved wrong?  Anyone?

Actually, no, I havent really pursued this... have had other things going on. I still would like to - eventually, but it isnt on the top of the list at the moment.

accusedmonk - thank you for the info! I will take a read thru your thread.

http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_F … Controller

There is more involved in that one, including importing a file called u8glib (or something) into arduino.  Then the firmware gives you compiling errors, which I found out.  Then it just blue screens and I stumped.  Anyone?

That's my thread with the issues I ran into, my LCD was basically just plug and play.  I've used both solidoodle and repetier firmwares with this setup.  The LCD control I really didn't like, you have to rotate the knob a ridiculous amount of times to change anything at all.  I'm using this in conjunction with a Raspberry Pi 2 and OctoPrint.  I highly recommend investing in that and still utilizing the lcd because you can upload files to the lcd card without interfering with the OS card in the Pi.  You don't even have to remove the card, it's all wirelessly done through WIFI!

Under configuration.h this line has to be defined.  I'm using the XXL LCD as well. @ line 573 in my firmware.

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

Just for reference on which direction to install the cables.

maybe I will kill some time waiting for parts to arrive by looking at the firmware for the LCD/SD bit...

actually, it seems it was stuck in the closed position - as soon as I started to loosen one of the screws, it popped open.
if I re-tighten that screw, it sticks again...so, screw is left slightly loose for now.

currently waiting on some more hardware to get here for the bed - other half is picking up some regular nuts & extra washers to hold screws still/tight to bed while adjusting the wing nuts on the bottom for level... makes it difficult to level when they just spin around... LOL

What you mean is the switch was depressed?  On an SD endstop that means the circuit is open.  I know it sounds backwards because it is   when the switch is depressed this shows as triggered but that switch is N.C. (normally closed) and when it is depressed it becomes (open).  So if your switch was stuck in the depressed position it would show triggered because the circuit is open.  The same would be true if it were unplugged or a wire broke.

currently waiting on some more hardware to get here for the bed - other half is picking up some regular nuts & extra washers to hold screws still/tight to bed while adjusting the wing nuts on the bottom for level... makes it difficult to level when they just spin around... LOL

oh for pity's sake - now it seems I am having issues with the Z end-stop...

it is reading triggered when it is NOT homed - not even close to home....

what else can go wrong???

No - wait - don't answer that!

It is disconnected (circuit open) if it is reading triggered.

it is reading triggered when it is NOT homed - not even close to home....

what else can go wrong???

No - wait - don't answer that!

I spent a couple of hours the other day building up the outer edges of the aluminum bed (low spots) with some copper foil tape I had (used for stained glass work) one layer at a time until I no longer had a wobble when it was placed faced down on the desk.

edit: oh yeah - also picked up and installed some new screws for leveling the bed. When we took it out to add something underneath to support the heat pad & insulation we found that all 3 screws were terribly bent! might be the reason I was constantly fighting with bed level?

Cut a new piece of mirror to rule out any potential issues with the old piece...

New mirror piece is now held to the aluminum bed with a couple of strips of the same copper tape in 2 opposite corners - it will tear fairly easily so there isn't a lot of force being used - just simply holding it in place.

Just finished reinstalling the whole works - time to warm it up and level... here goes nuttin... LOL
(also double checked all my screw terminals to make sure they are tight...)

anyway - back to 3D printing stuff...

ward - here are a couple of pics for you. orientation: right = front of printer - all three pieces started filling at top right corner (in pic)...
also included a closer view of the worst corner of the larger piece. tried very hard to save it through most of the first layer, but finally gave up.