1 Topic by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Topic: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

I am soon to begin building a 12x12x12” printer that will be detailed over in the projects forum.  I want a really good heated bed so I have my eye on the following silicone heater:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#35765k613/=vjqije

It’s a 10x10” 500 watt, 4.35 amp heater so that will leave 1” on the front and back where I can install bed leveling screws without going thru the silicone heater pad.  Is this is good choice?  It looks like it does not come with a thermistor, so will it be okay if I take a 100K thermistor that I have laying around and just kapton tape it to the center of the aluminum spreader and put the silicone pad over it?  I will find some fiberglass wire shielding and insulation that can handle the heat.

I understand that I won’t want to pass that much current thru my board (RUMBA) so I will need an SSR.  With 500 watts for the bed and about 120 for everything else, I think I should look for a PSU that is 650 watts or higher, right?  I wish there was a supernight PSU this big but how about this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALK … _i=desktop

However, I don’t really understand how to hook this PSU up.  It doesn’t look like it has output rails.  Do I have to start stripping wires?  I really wanted it mounted to the back of the printer, we will see how that goes.  Also, it sure would be nice to find a PSU for less than $80, seems kinda steep.

Next, how is this for an SSR?  Ward mentioned that it looked right but I want to understand why.  Without a heat sink, it still have 5 amps, which is more than the 4.35 of the heater so is that all I need to look for?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8192k222/=vjt5fv

What I am most confused about is how to wire the combo of my PSU, SSR, heat bed and motherboard (RUMBA).  I found this diagram on a printerbot website...
http://i.imgur.com/mZg7k6D.jpg
...but it still leaves some questions because the RUMBA had dedicated heat bed input/ outputs.  I did read through the other thread by nbourg8 on his SD4 heat bed upgrade but between the use of the RUMBA and the 500 w silicone heater, I think this merits another thread.  So, the questions:

1.    What gauge wire do I want between all of these?  I’m thinking at least 16 gauge for everything.
2.    So it looks like the SSR and the heat bed are both grounded to the PSU, right? 
3.    I really don’t know how exactly the SSR hooks into the RUMBA?  Do I put it into the heat bed inputs or outputs?  Or are the inputs left blank? 
4.    The figure below shows “relay control” from the printrboard to the SSR.  What is the corresponding terminal on the RUMBA?

As you can tell, I’m nearly clueless on this but at least I did my research before just asking someone to do it for me.  A picture is worth 100 words so I attached a diagram below.  Can anyone open the picture below in paint and just draw in where all the wires are supposed to go?  Or, if I need to consider other components, feel free to make suggestions.  Thanks!

http://i.imgur.com/15LR8wz.jpg

Edit: the RUMBA does say 11 amps on the heated bed connections.  Someone tell me that I still need an SSR and I didn’t just do all this research for nothing… right?

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

2 Reply by mloebl (edited by mloebl 2015-01-20 21:15:20)

  • mloebl
  • Member
  • Offline
  • From: Massachusetts
  • Registered: 2013-11-17
  • Posts: 84

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

I was using a 12v 200w silicone heater, and the large component (not sure if that's a cap or a resettable fuse) was getting incredibly hot and had a "I'm getting too hot..." smell.  Added a relay board in to be safe.  I wish I had realized about the SSR earlier as I bought a 12v relay board, but had an SSR sitting unused in a box I used as a spare when I built a reflow oven.

SD3, Lawsy Carriages with GT2 belts on x axis, BLTouch, Bondtech BMG extruder, E3D v6 via bowden, MIC6 bed with 200W heater w/SSR relay and a RUMBA controller

3 Reply by IronMan (edited by IronMan 2015-01-20 21:58:52)

  • IronMan
  • IronMan
  • PRINTiT
  • Offline
  • From: SC
  • Registered: 2012-09-14
  • Posts: 1,269

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

mdrVB6,

May not answer all your questions, but here's a start (see my answers in italics):

mdrVB6 wrote:

I am soon to begin building a 12x12x12” printer that will be detailed over in the projects forum.  I want a really good heated bed so I have my eye on the following silicone heater:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#35765k613/=vjqije

It’s a 10x10” 500 watt, 4.35 amp heater so that will leave 1” on the front and back where I can install bed leveling screws without going thru the silicone heater pad.  Is this is good choice?  It looks like it does not come with a thermistor, so will it be okay if I take a 100K thermistor that I have laying around and just kapton tape it to the center of the aluminum spreader and put the silicone pad over it?  I will find some fiberglass wire shielding and insulation that can handle the heat.  Should be OK

I understand that I won’t want to pass that much current thru my board (RUMBA) so I will need an SSR.  With 500 watts for the bed and about 120 for everything else, I think I should look for a PSU that is 650 watts or higher, right?  I wish there was a supernight PSU this big but how about this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALK … _i=desktop

This heater pad is AC powered, so the power supply you show (DC) will have nothing to do with heating the pad except to control the SSR.

However, I don’t really understand how to hook this PSU up.  It doesn’t look like it has output rails.  Do I have to start stripping wires?  I really wanted it mounted to the back of the printer, we will see how that goes.  Also, it sure would be nice to find a PSU for less than $80, seems kinda steep.

This style PSU is popular and not too expensive; also very easy to wire up:
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulat … B00D7CWSCG

Next, how is this for an SSR?  Ward mentioned that it looked right but I want to understand why.  Without a heat sink, it still have 5 amps, which is more than the 4.35 of the heater so is that all I need to look for?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8192k222/=vjt5fv

That link is not for a SSR, that is a mechanical relay.  The photo you show below is correct for the SSR...Google Amazon for DC/AC SSR...and always try to go with a 3X rating on the SSR over your load.

What I am most confused about is how to wire the combo of my PSU, SSR, heat bed and motherboard (RUMBA).  I found this diagram on a printerbot website...
http://i.imgur.com/mZg7k6D.jpg
...but it still leaves some questions because the RUMBA had dedicated heat bed input/ outputs.  I did read through the other thread by nbourg8 on his SD4 heat bed upgrade but between the use of the RUMBA and the 500 w silicone heater, I think this merits another thread.  So, the questions:

1.    What gauge wire do I want between all of these?  I’m thinking at least 16 gauge for everything. Sounds OK
2.    So it looks like the SSR and the heat bed are both grounded to the PSU, right?  Mine aren't, but I'm running a DC heatbed
3.    I really don’t know how exactly the SSR hooks into the RUMBA?  Do I put it into the heat bed inputs or outputs?  Or are the inputs left blank?  The HB outputs on the RUMBA hook into the inputs on the SSR.
4.    The figure below shows “relay control” from the printrboard to the SSR.  What is the corresponding terminal on the RUMBA?  Not sure.

As you can tell, I’m nearly clueless on this but at least I did my research before just asking someone to do it for me.  A picture is worth 100 words so I attached a diagram below.  Can anyone open the picture below in paint and just draw in where all the wires are supposed to go?  Or, if I need to consider other components, feel free to make suggestions.  Thanks!

http://i.imgur.com/15LR8wz.jpg

Edit: the RUMBA does say 11 amps on the heated bed connections.  Someone tell me that I still need an SSR and I didn’t just do all this research for nothing… right?

No waste!  You NEED a SSR for this.  The heater outputs from the RUMBA which would normally heat the bed will now be acting as a control circuit for the SSR to switch on/off the AC power for the silicone pad.

Hope this helped...Sorry, no diagram today; I'll be away from the computer for awhile smile

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

4 Reply by shields1.as

  • shields1.as
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2014-09-02
  • Posts: 398

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

how come you are using 240 instead?

mdrVB6 wrote:

I am soon to begin building a 12x12x12” printer that will be detailed over in the projects forum.  I want a really good heated bed so I have my eye on the following silicone heater:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#35765k613/=vjqije

It’s a 10x10” 500 watt, 4.35 amp heater so that will leave 1” on the front and back where I can install bed leveling screws without going thru the silicone heater pad.  Is this is good choice?  It looks like it does not come with a thermistor, so will it be okay if I take a 100K thermistor that I have laying around and just kapton tape it to the center of the aluminum spreader and put the silicone pad over it?  I will find some fiberglass wire shielding and insulation that can handle the heat.

I understand that I won’t want to pass that much current thru my board (RUMBA) so I will need an SSR.  With 500 watts for the bed and about 120 for everything else, I think I should look for a PSU that is 650 watts or higher, right?  I wish there was a supernight PSU this big but how about this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALK … _i=desktop

However, I don’t really understand how to hook this PSU up.  It doesn’t look like it has output rails.  Do I have to start stripping wires?  I really wanted it mounted to the back of the printer, we will see how that goes.  Also, it sure would be nice to find a PSU for less than $80, seems kinda steep.

Next, how is this for an SSR?  Ward mentioned that it looked right but I want to understand why.  Without a heat sink, it still have 5 amps, which is more than the 4.35 of the heater so is that all I need to look for?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8192k222/=vjt5fv

What I am most confused about is how to wire the combo of my PSU, SSR, heat bed and motherboard (RUMBA).  I found this diagram on a printerbot website...
http://i.imgur.com/mZg7k6D.jpg
...but it still leaves some questions because the RUMBA had dedicated heat bed input/ outputs.  I did read through the other thread by nbourg8 on his SD4 heat bed upgrade but between the use of the RUMBA and the 500 w silicone heater, I think this merits another thread.  So, the questions:

1.    What gauge wire do I want between all of these?  I’m thinking at least 16 gauge for everything.
2.    So it looks like the SSR and the heat bed are both grounded to the PSU, right? 
3.    I really don’t know how exactly the SSR hooks into the RUMBA?  Do I put it into the heat bed inputs or outputs?  Or are the inputs left blank? 
4.    The figure below shows “relay control” from the printrboard to the SSR.  What is the corresponding terminal on the RUMBA?

As you can tell, I’m nearly clueless on this but at least I did my research before just asking someone to do it for me.  A picture is worth 100 words so I attached a diagram below.  Can anyone open the picture below in paint and just draw in where all the wires are supposed to go?  Or, if I need to consider other components, feel free to make suggestions.  Thanks!

http://i.imgur.com/15LR8wz.jpg

Edit: the RUMBA does say 11 amps on the heated bed connections.  Someone tell me that I still need an SSR and I didn’t just do all this research for nothing… right?

5 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

You are on the right path my only suggestion/thought  would be why mess with a huge PSU when you could run a heater that large on AC? 
That would be how I run mine so feel free to ask questions.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

6 Reply by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

Haha wow.  I would totally miss that it is an ac heater.  Now I really have no clue how to wire it.  My research will continue but if you wanted to post a sketch, that would be great.  I get that the hb out on the rumba goes to the ssr input.  Does the hb in go to the regular PSU?  And the bed wires go to where?

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

7 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

Because you really don't want to screw this up!!! I will post up a quick sketch tomorrow with all the details.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

8 Reply by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

So is it basically like this?

https://cnc2printer3d.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/ssr.jpg

From here: https://cnc2printer3d.wordpress.com/201 … ated-beds/

That board is not a RUMBA, but I assume I would connect the SSR Input side to the RUMBA heat bed output.  Then are the RUMBA heat bed inputs left unused?  Also, if I take apart a standard 3 prong plug, it will have 3 wires for load, neutral and ground.  The diagram only shows 2, so its not clear to me how to wire it. 

I'm pretty glad I won't need the 750 watt PSU!  Just gotta figure out how to wire this.  I looked on alibaba for silicone heat pads and while I could get one made for about half the price of McMaster I'm not sure it is worth the wait, uncertainity, and hassle.  McMaster is about to get a good chunk of my money... again.  But I can get an SSR off amazon for a good bit cheaper.  More to come...

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

9 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

You pretty much got it but I'd add a ground to the chassis of the printer and from there to the platform.
The HB input is going to require power but because there is no load other than the relay you can use some small wires and just jump from the + & - from the MAIN-PWR

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

10 Reply by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

I think I found a good resource:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Heated- … -Series-1/

Reading thru this now.  I think this image basically answers all my questions:

http://cdn.instructables.com/FAD/S2HL/I4CN07F5/FADS2HLI4CN07F5.LARGE.jpg

Does that look right to you?

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

11 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

It looks "Pretty OK"
In this case you are going to want "Extremely OK" at the very least.
I would really recommend running a separate cord (3 conductors) for the bed heater.  Not that your layout wont work but you are playing with real power and real risk of Shock.  A good three prong cord with a ground connected at the chassis of the printer and also the platform is vital.  Also a consideration is tying into the supply wires of your PSU could induce undesirable power spikes.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

12 Reply by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

So if I run a separate cord, then my printer is taking up 2 plugs on my wall.  I could deal with that but what if I just mount a power strip on the back of my printer and plug both the PSU and the heat bed into that?  I think that should produce a similar result.  Most other electronics don't behave badly having a bunch of them plugged into one power strip.  Then I could  have an easy on/ off rocker switch and also charge my phone from my printer, haha.

How would I even go about grounding it at the chassis of the printer and at the platform?  I believe the bed heater only has 2 wires, N and L, and those would go as shown.  What else would I even ground?

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

13 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

I will get you a picture of the grounds but for now here is a diagram for clarification.

http://i.imgur.com/7EF558b.png

The idea of a power strip in the back is a good one.  I just don't like splices on the supply side of a large load such as a heating element.  You can't avoid the ones on the relay but in my opinion 2 is more than you want.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

14 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

The really nice circle I drew is where the heater power cord is mounted to the case with a clamp.  I also used that screw to attach the ground wire from the cord to the chassis.  That is not a Rumba BTW wink

http://i.imgur.com/BwrfZ6d.jpg?1

Then you want another wire going from that screw in the chassis up to the build platform and attach it with a screw.  This is an old picture so the wire doesn't show up but you can attach the ground to any metal part on the platform.  You may even be able to utilize an existing hole or drill in a new one.
http://i.imgur.com/71tbpke.jpg

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

15 Reply by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

Okay, I took your sketch and cleaned it up a bit and loosely illustrated they way I will construct it on the back of my printer.  How does this look?

http://i.imgur.com/Mi74UPN.png

Will the bed wires even have a polarity?  I know the input side of the SSR matters but does the output?  I may try the double grounding on the case and bed but I'm pretty confident I can get a strong connection just doing it to the case.  Thanks again for all your help!

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

16 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

You've got it as long as you are (ouput side SSR) switching the Hot wire of the AC and not the neutral.  I assure you there is no reliable continuity between the moving Z platform and the chassis.  This needs a ground wire between them because if for any reason the element in the heater should burn through it will become a live (110 AC) moving platform.
Make Sense?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

17 Reply by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

Okay, so just to make sure: on my sketch, the red wire is the live line that gets switched, right?  And the black is permanently into the negative socket.  But there is no actual polarity on the bed heaters, right?  So I just need to make sure I get the SSR right.  I think I got it. 

Well, okay, I guess I won't be cheap on the grounding!  I sure don't want a 110 AC live platform! 

PS: when did you become a mod?  I just noticed.  Thanks again for all the help and congrats.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

18 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

There is no polarity on the heater itself.  You just want to make sure the wire coming from the wall outlet cord (should be black/hot) is the one going to the relay.  The other 2 wires in the cord should be white(neutral) and green(ground).
With AC we really don't use the term positive and negative since the current alternates. 
So it's Line or hot then neutral and ground.

And thanks Mod for a few days now trying to clean up the Press threads.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

19 Reply by fxdata

  • fxdata
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-08-03
  • Posts: 18

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

If your using 120 volts ac might consider putting an inline fuse in case the heater shorts. Would need to be attached from the hot side of the ac plug to the SSR. Rather be safe then have a major problem.

20 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

True or let the relay be the sacrificial lamb in place of the fuse.  I am assuming your plugging into a wall outlet that is ultimately on a breaker.  Safety first but redundancy in this case really provides little extra protection.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

21 Reply by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

I can look for a fuse, that should be fairly easy to do.  This 16 gauge fuse holder should work, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH … r+16+gauge

Also, how is this for an SSR?  It is a 40 amp and if the heater is only 4.35 amps this should be way more than enough and its cheaper than the McMaster SSR (of course).

http://www.amazon.com/40A-SSR-Solid-Sta … ywords=SSR

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

22 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

Experience and testing tell us to go with what we know works but your welcome to try something different.  Of course if it isn't up to the task they melt at best and at worst catch fire.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

23 Reply by mdrVB6

  • mdrVB6
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-12-18
  • Posts: 717

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

Ya I'm not trying to start a fire, thats why I'm here asking for help.  I've never picked out a fuse or SSR before so I'm just trying to go by the numbers on the packaging.  Do you see any reason why that fuse and SSR combo would not work?  It looks like it would from my very limited understanding.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

24 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
  • Moderator
  • Offline
  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
  • Posts: 5,623

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

I don't see any reason.  I can say I am not a fan of the fuse but I think I already made that case.
In addition you'll be adding two more points of failure to the wiring. Your decision though.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

25 Reply by fxdata

  • fxdata
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-08-03
  • Posts: 18

Re: How to select and install a silicone bed heater, SSR and PSU?

If you look at most items plugged into an ac outlet they have some sort of breaker or fuse. Yes the breaker on the breaker box will trip still no guarantee would do so before it fails.

The fuse you seen on amazon is a dc type, need an ac fuse. Found two different types one has the plug with the fuse. Other is just a fuse by it self. For the fuse size either 6 or 7amp.

Inlet Male Power Socket with Fuse Switch 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14

Screw Cap AGC Fuseholder Black