1

Topic: Y Stepper Belt Slop

I'm still having problems printing perfect circles.  I've done just about everything, the physical calibration that Solidoodle suggested, proper tensioning of the "Y" left and right belts, pillow block,  yet I still have flat top and bottom sides.  It's especially noticeable on small circles and holes

Last night while I was trying for the umpteenth time to fix this problem I noticed that the small belt from the stepper to the "transmission" rod looked sloppy, especially when doing small infills.  I stopped the print and check the belt.  When stationary, the belt feels pretty tight, but when it's working, and changing direction really fast, you can visibly see what appears to be a lot of slop.

So I'm wondering if this might have something to do with my circle problems.  To that effect I came up with a spring loaded tensioning device which should remove any slop on the fly.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6778

What do you think?  Will it help?

Post's attachments

SD3 Y-Stepper Motor & Tensioner 1.jpg
SD3 Y-Stepper Motor & Tensioner 1.jpg 105.57 kb, 1 downloads since 2014-11-16 

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

2

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

Might be a good solution, wouldn't hurt to try.  I moved the motor itself inline with the back rod and make it direct drive so there is no slop/backlash at all.

Bowden SD3, Rumba, E3D hotend, Mk5 with RtRyder changes, Direct drive Y axis and bearings, GT2 pulleys and braided fishing line, Lawsy linear bearing conversion, M3 Z screw.

3 (edited by grob 2014-11-16 23:07:50)

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

+1 neat idea, looks like it will be quite simple to implement too (which makes for a good mod!).

I did the same as accusedmonk, it looks messy (sticks out a lot!) but it works well (once aligned correctly... took a couple of goes!).
Currently not happy with the mounting, it's all a little cramped and needs to allow for a spider coupler (not the rigid one I've got in there) I think - not going to post it up until I've investigated that route more thoroughly.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

4

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

My frame and mount flex, but it doesn't seem to affect the prints any.  I'm probably going to leave mine minus a few reprints / aestetic changes to make the designs look cleaner.

So far I've replaced every part of my printer except the motors and bed.  Now I know how weak the frame is I'm just going to build my own...

I like this idea though pirvan, give it a go and let us know! I might have tried this route out but I wanted the flex minimised from that rod.

Bowden SD3, Rumba, E3D hotend, Mk5 with RtRyder changes, Direct drive Y axis and bearings, GT2 pulleys and braided fishing line, Lawsy linear bearing conversion, M3 Z screw.

5

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

is that motor mounted different on SD4 than SD2? mine just has a small belt to the shaft that drives the 2 sides

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

6 (edited by n2ri 2014-11-16 23:30:26)

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

what print speeds are you guys running at? maybe thats doing it with Solidoodles poor designs. with a non Bowden extruder adding weight to carriage the momentum it creates at speed adds G-force to the flexing of the whole mounting system which is magnified in prints. even more on outer edges of long runs left and right.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

7

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

n2ri wrote:

what print speeds are you guys running at?

Nothing special, max 80mm/s print / 110mm/s travel.
Shakes a bit, but most of my wobble right now is E3D-in-mk5 movement... Lots to do haha!

Direct drive with a hard coupling did halve my measured y-backlash instantly (well, once I got rid of the new wobbles created by the added alignment problem) - that little belt is hard to get tight enough via linear tension alone, I think pirvan might be onto a (much simpler) winner here.

n2ri wrote:

is that motor mounted different on SD4 than SD2? mine just has a small belt to the shaft that drives the 2 sides

Y-drive for SD3 and SD4 appears identical except for the main y-belt tension adjustment being done at the idler pulleys on the SD4 (as opposed to at the carriages on the SD3). Small belt to the driveshaft you describe is the one we're trying to eliminate / tension better.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

8

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

I haven't pushed the print speed yet, i wasn't happy with the belts on the y axis.  But now since I've replaced them with braided line I'm going to test that as well.

Lately I've been running 60mm/s print and 150mm/s move speed.  I'm hoping to double the print speed since I've went to bowden.

Bowden SD3, Rumba, E3D hotend, Mk5 with RtRyder changes, Direct drive Y axis and bearings, GT2 pulleys and braided fishing line, Lawsy linear bearing conversion, M3 Z screw.

9 (edited by pirvan 2014-11-22 16:13:28)

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

FINALLY, PERFECT CIRCLES!!! smile

Last night I finally got a chance to print a put together the belt tensioner I designed, and would you believe it, that was the solution to my flattened out circles.  I've been chasing this for the last 2 years, and tried everything under the sun, but ultimately it was the slop I noticed during small infills that provided the key and the solution

Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy !!


http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6830
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6831

For those that want to try this as a possible solution for their problems, here are the STL's.  You will need some 3mm socket head screws, a 608ZZ bearing, and a 8mm O.D. (or less) spring.

Post's attachments

perfect hole maker.jpg
perfect hole maker.jpg 141.95 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

perfect holes.jpg
perfect holes.jpg 120.96 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

SD3 Y-Stepper Motor & Tensioner arm.stl 994.32 kb, 59 downloads since 2014-11-22 

SD3 Y-Stepper Motor & Tensioner frame.stl 273.32 kb, 51 downloads since 2014-11-22 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.
To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

10

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

Nicely done, this will help a lot of folks out!

Bowden SD3, Rumba, E3D hotend, Mk5 with RtRyder changes, Direct drive Y axis and bearings, GT2 pulleys and braided fishing line, Lawsy linear bearing conversion, M3 Z screw.

11

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

Would you mind posting your results from this circle test STL? It is a little difficult to tell from your photos--I have my circle deviation greatly reduced, to the point that it's unnoticable in holes and the like, but if you have any remaining deviation, this print will bring it out.

Nice work. This is a very interesting solution.

Post's attachments

circle.stl 300.08 kb, 15 downloads since 2014-11-22 

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12

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

Well done... what an a great solution. Love it.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

13 (edited by redbarret 2014-11-22 19:06:18)

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

Thank you kind sir, I will try this.

But can anyone explain me why there's a slop to begin with?

PS. I would also like a picture like jagowilson suggested. Kind of hard to tell from your pics if its gone completely.
Maybe you could even 2d scan the print?

EDIT: actually, what's a "belt slop"? tongue

Solidoodle 4

14

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

btw, i checked the stl and i dont see the clipping design for attaching the bearing in. How should we attach with this design? Glue the bearing?

Solidoodle 4

15

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

Just curious: Why is this better than loosening the motor, forcing it down harder, and tightening the screws?

16 (edited by jagowilson 2014-11-23 02:33:22)

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

Claghorn wrote:

Just curious: Why is this better than loosening the motor, forcing it down harder, and tightening the screws?

I would assume this leads to less deflection of the rod, but this is not an issue with a pillow bearing and replacement of the side bushings, which is my next plan for fixing this issue. Im interested in seeing the improvement so far.

17

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

deflection of the rod?

pillow bearings instead of the bushings will just reduce friction on the rod and allow to tighten the motor belt more without causing binding from not enough torque, right?
I'm guessing this mod has the same effect.

And wardjr has perfect circles without pillow bearings.
I actually havent seen a SD with a pillow bearing, and printing circles.

Really waiting for pirvan's reply.
The STL seems to be old version. There's no way to secure the bearing with a screw like in the photo.

Solidoodle 4

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Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

jagowilson wrote:

Would you mind posting your results from this circle test STL? It is a little difficult to tell from your photos--I have my circle deviation greatly reduced, to the point that it's unnoticable in holes and the like, but if you have any remaining deviation, this print will bring it out.

Nice work. This is a very interesting solution.

My problem was not large circles, so much as smaller ones.  Small holes (2-15mm) were just horrible, in fact I always had to drill out the holes, as they usually ended up as rounded corner trapezoids.

Anyway, here is your test.  The outermost circle is actually a 2 loop skirt, the rest are your model.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6836

Post's attachments

circles.jpg
circles.jpg 189.41 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

19 (edited by pirvan 2014-11-23 03:25:14)

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

I'm going to try to explain and answer some of the questions.

First of all, I do have pillow blocks on my rod, yet I still had the problem.  In fact it would be interesting to find out how many here that have done the pillow block mod, have solved their circle problems.

@ Claghorn: Just curious: Why is this better than loosening the motor, forcing it down harder, and tightening the screws?
I don't know exactly the physics behind this, but I don't think it has anything to do with rod deflection.  What I think is happening, is that as the motor pulls the belt, it stretches it imperceptibly, and when it changes direction it quickly releases that belt tension which momentarily accounts for some slop and looseness while the belt tries to go back to it's original shape.  That translates into the deviation we see.  So it's a belt stretch  problem, not a rod deflection problem.

The spring loaded tensioning device, applies "self-adjustable pressure" on the belt, taking up any slack as it happens.  This cannot be done with static tensioning such as when you simply adjust the motor to pull on the belt.

BTW, this also accounts for the small infills that don't touch the perimeters on on some areas of the model.  So this mod also seems to fix that problem.

@Redbarret:  The STL seems to be old version. There's no way to secure the bearing with a screw like in the photo.
The model I posted doesn't have the split bearing post as in the original drawing above.  It has a round shaft for the bearing, with a hole in it.  You need to use a washer and a 3mm socket head screw.  Here is an exploded view:

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6837

BTW, here is what my printer "Y" drive looks like right now.  Notice the pillow block I have (circled in green), which, although it provides nice support for the rod, it never fixed the circle problem.


http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6838

Post's attachments

SD3 Y-Stepper Motor & Tensioner exploded.jpg 78.53 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

SD3 Y-Stepper Motor, Tensioner, Rod and pillow block.jpg 179.31 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.
To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

20

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

redbarret wrote:

Thank you kind sir, I will try this.

Maybe you could even 2d scan the print?

Seriously?  Don't you think it would be simpler for you to just give it a try?  Or not.

I'm not saying this is going to fix everyones problem, it probably won't but for some, it might help.  Give it a try.  It will only take 35-45 minutes to print this, and a few minutes to install it.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

21 (edited by jagowilson 2014-11-23 04:26:15)

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

They look pretty good to me! Nice work. How tight are you running the belt prior to applying this? As tight as you can get it, for the most part?

22

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

jagowilson wrote:

They look pretty good to me! Nice work. How tight are you running the belt prior to applying this? As tight as you can get it, for the most part?

Tight, but not enough to bend anything.  As you can see, the spring in the tensioner was able to push the belt in quite a bit.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

23

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

Nice work, pirvan!

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

24 (edited by redbarret 2014-11-23 07:45:33)

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

pirvan wrote:

Seriously?  Don't you think it would be simpler for you to just give it a try?

I didn't say I won't. Definitely will.

I'm not saying this is going to fix everyones problem, it probably won't but for some, it might help.

Exactly, that's why me and jagowilson wanted to see exactly how your circles look right now.
The reason I asked for a photo or scan was not to see if this fixes the issue for everyone, but how well it fixed it for you, so if I try this mod and still have the problem and know yours doesn't, then too look for any issue on my printer specifically, or see how your printer and my differ (for example in your photo it seems you're also using dtwo bushings).
Here's a scan of mine without this mod: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5X-w … 1600/2.jpg
It's a bit hard to judge from photos as most are at an angle. Yours is too. jagowilson once showed a photo to me which showed a circle he had printed which looked perfect, then I asked him to take a clear photo from top and then we could see the distortion.

Your circles in your photo look very very good, but it is at an angle like the old photo made by jagowilson I mentioned.

And I understand where the screw has to go in your STL. But I just see a hole in the stl, there's no hole on the other side for the screw to come out and tighten it down with a nut, or a hexagonal hole to put a nut in.

Again, thank you for this clever mod and I'm definitely going to try it.
We just want to see how well it worked for you, that's all.

Solidoodle 4

25

Re: Y Stepper Belt Slop

I didn't pick the spring through any "scientific" method, rather, I have a box with a few hundred springs I bought  at the hardware store (the assortment bag special).  I picked one of the springs that was medium strength, that I could collapse between my thumb and forefinger.

The spring is 8.5mm outside diameter, the pitch (uncompressed) is 3mm, and it's made of 0.8mm diameter spring steel.  The uncompressed length is ~24mm, compressed ~8mm.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.