Top Layer Finish (Page 1 of 2)

Thanks I'll give it a try..

Z offset will affect your final top layer? I though the offset just told it where to start. I will have to look and see if that box is checked or not. I wish i could get Cura to work on this machine but it never wants to connect even though Repetier host works fine.

I would like to see a macro photo of this print done in the scale its in using those settings you keep saying will do fine for any print.

we dont live in a perfect world so I dont think all that holds true for every ones 3D printer needs.

its only N scale so shouldnt take 15mins with those settings just dont think its gonna be nice enough to sell.

yep thats flat top, try curved top

not talking 45 degree arch top. just slight curve like car roof or hood. thats why I posted an STL to try that idea on. to show why thinner, multi layers both top/bottom and sides make this transition look much better without looking like steps with gaps. I have been doing it this way for a year due to learning that on these tiny vehicles with details.some even have the little rearview mirrors printed. stop saying "it should" slice the file above using those settings that "should work fine" and see the results in a few minutes. its a challenge put your printer where your mouth is so to speak. I have tried tons of ways but what you suggest wont give results needed for many tiny prints. and it is bridging just have to use support as Slic3r dont see it as a bridge at that small of size. so unless you have a gcode operated part cooling fan. support is required

This topic IS NOT about holes. I even specifically said ignore the holes. What this topis is about is the finish not being smooth and looking like icing on a cake spread with a hot knife. It looks almost to me like the extruder is making two passes over a line to lay it then melt it and smudge it all up. It does not do this laying bottom layers it it makes one pass then moves to the next line they look uniform and lay side by side and are visible.

Top layers however look like somebody dry to cover the lines with a bad plaster job.  It looks to me maybe the flow rate is wrong or the multiplier is wrong and too much filament is coming out on the top layer. But then I would think it would be evident as ooze on the sides and corners as well and as you can see the sides and corners look great. Well the on side you can kind of see.

So what setting controls this if there is one  because Cura on my old 3Dstuffmaker did not make a finish like this. It was smooth and you could still see the lines fairly well. Cura uses a variation of Slic3r so I should get similar results. My 3DS used true Marlin firmware and I wonder if that may be where the issue lies. I am using Repetier right now. I would use Cura now but since installing Repetier host it does not want to connect. If anyone has managed to do that, let me know the secret.

by random errors I mean things beyond anyones control like power failuers, something bumping printer or getting in the way of filament somehow etc

Well I gave you advice on where I think the troubles could be. Beyond all of that the hotend is probably just low quality and can't meet your expectations.

What's your extrusion width and nozzle diameter?

Just for fun because I had 15 minutes to spare (This includes downloading and fixing the file, slicing and printing)
This was done with a .60 nozzle at 80mm/s and I have no intentions of switching to a smaller nozzle.  That means I understand there are no mirrors as that would just be asking for to much from Slic3r and I wasn't going to make a special profile just for this.  The point to the OP is as long as the extrusion is set properly you will get smooth top layers.  That assumes you are using good filament which I can assure you my over a year old glow in the dark blue is not.  I have been trying to use this stuff up even though it is saturated with moisture and causes some blobs.

To the naked eye the tops are smooth and all lines are exactly as the g-code shows.  Of course my hot end is very secure with no movement and I have little to no backlash in the rest of my setup.  For this print I could have taken some more time to dial in my extrusion multiplier to achieve better results.

All of this being said could I sell something like this?  I doubt it as I see no value beyond it's cost to produce. 
For those of you that enjoy pushing the limits of "small"  I give you credit for your efforts and would pose this question.
Why wouldn't you print something this small at 100% infill?

as to calibrating extrusion. I have printed perfect test cubes with my old SD2 and its .35mm nozzle with all 4 walls being within+/- .01mm of or exactly .42mm and zero abnormalities I mean glass smooth all around and perfect square corners plus near transparent in natural color ABS from SD.  yet some prints get gaps between perimeters or thin lines at times in support, bridges, top layers if anything over .2mm is used.  that I can only assume are due to the old extruder temp range fluctuating during printing even at max speeds of only 60mm possibly causing stretching of extruded filament or something. I dont want to increase flow rates as I'm sure that would make my fine detailed prints ooze or worse. hoping upgrade to E3D will cure this.

It is the stock full head that the Da Vinci come with. The nozzle is 0.4 and I print at .3, .2, .1, and .05. This cube was done at .2 and is a standard 20mm calibration cube. My printed dims. Are 20.1, 20.03, and 19.98. They are close enough for what I print. I will tweak the esteps one day to get it closer. But for now it is fine.

I have an E3d hot end, but I dont like them as they are near impossible  to change the nozzle on and yhen have it not leak. Cant change it when it is cold and it is hard to hold the heat block in place while trying  to remove the nozzle and not have the feed tube turn as well. Unless the nozzle base snugs against the feedtube inside the heat block it will leak around the feedtube then run over the side of the heat block onto your print.