26 (edited by wardjr 2014-10-12 03:46:56)

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Shouldn't have too many problems other than the pins out the sides.  You'll maybe want to design in your own support or plan on lots of cleanup.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

27

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

no those are easy prints really

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

28

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Is there a certain glue that people prefer for gluing ABS parts together?  Home depot sells a special glue just for ABS (pipe).  I find CA an Epoxy a little brittle for other applictions.  Maybe the same kinds of glues people use for plastic 'hobby store' models?

Plastic Scribbler 2100

29 (edited by Tin Falcon 2014-10-12 18:56:58)

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

I am beginning to think that you have to get your first printer before you get your second printer  ;-)  Genius, I know. Haha.  I mean you need to start somewhere to know what  you are missing.

For me it was kind of a case of having some I idea of what I wanted.
not necessarily  in order of priority.
something factory assembled preferably USA
heated bed
decent size work area.
open source
things it would be nice to have  second print head on bard LCD and control. 
after I got my printer I learned of the value of an all metal extrude and the importance of a near nozzle fan for PLA.

And it seems for most of us the gap between what we feel comfortable sending and the price tag of the printer that matches the dream sheet is a large gap indeed.

so the choices 1) wait until the technology improves and the price drops  to where what you want and what you can afford comes together.

2) be patient save money until you can afford what you want.

3) jump in and try to find the best deal and best specs for the money yu want to spend. 

I went went for choice 3

Like any other tool or consumer product there is no one best choice for everyone although Marketing departments will tell you otherwise.  In the future it may be possible to test drive a printer like one tests drives a car. But in the mean time for us folks bold enough to risk a few hundred dollars on a printer and learn to set up adjust and experiment we have the reward of being at the leading edge/bleeding edge of the learning curve. We can have and hold the objects that other hear about on the evening news. And there are so many facets to this technology so many dreams so many motivations.  I am fortunate to have several friends that are experienced with 3d printing  1)  An engineer / educator that has operated a statysis for about 5 years. 2) An engineer by day that has a side business doing 3d design 3d printing and selling filament and a fellow hobbyist that also does some for hire 3d printing and investment casting using lost PLA  molds.

Bottom line is you really can not know what a 3d printer will do or will not do until you use one. You have to let the printer and material tell you what it needs and lean to learn from it.

PLA likes cooling air, ABS likes a warm bed, limit negative draft to 30 degrees off vertical etc....  we find the limites then work through or around them.



Your models IMHO look pretty good. horizontal hols may need a little cleanup with a reamer. and thos dowels ay nedd some support.

Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

30

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

I use super glue GEL for gluing my parts together.

SD2 - Glass Bed, Fans on PCB and Y motor, Custom enclosure
Slicer - Simplify3D

31

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Why would those be hard to print? Seem kinda simple to me

stevea3342 wrote:

It would be nice to use something dissolvable on the second extruder.  I am beginning to think that you have to get your first printer before you get your second printer  ;-)  Genius, I know. Haha.  I mean you need to start somewhere to know what  you are missing.

Playing with Sketchup, are these the kind of things that are very difficult to print correctly?
http://s30.postimg.org/5wimf42g1/Image1.jpg

32

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

shields1.as wrote:

Why would those be hard to print? Seem kinda simple to me


I was reading that mechanical parts that need to fit together are a bit more difficult to setup correctly since the tolerances have to be the same/correct across multiple parts.  I wasn't sure where that applied.

Tin, good idea on the dowels/tabs.  I may leave space for a carbon fiber rod for strength.

Plastic Scribbler 2100

33 (edited by n2ri 2014-10-12 20:52:14)

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

stevea3342 wrote:

Is there a certain glue that people prefer for gluing ABS parts together?  Home depot sells a special glue just for ABS (pipe).  I find CA an Epoxy a little brittle for other applictions.  Maybe the same kinds of glues people use for plastic 'hobby store' models?

same as plastic models made of ABS too. also can fill holes with extruder if needed

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

34

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Tin Falcon wrote:

I am beginning to think that you have to get your first printer before you get your second printer  ;-)  Genius, I know. Haha.  I mean you need to start somewhere to know what  you are missing.

For me it was kind of a case of having some I idea of what I wanted.
not necessarily  in order of priority.
something factory assembled preferably USA
heated bed
decent size work area.
open source
things it would be nice to have  second print head on bard LCD and control. 
after I got my printer I learned of the value of an all metal extrude and the importance of a near nozzle fan for PLA.

And it seems for most of us the gap between what we feel comfortable sending and the price tag of the printer that matches the dream sheet is a large gap indeed.

so the choices 1) wait until the technology improves and the price drops  to where what you want and what you can afford comes together.

2) be patient save money until you can afford what you want.

3) jump in and try to find the best deal and best specs for the money yu want to spend. 

I went went for choice 3

Like any other tool or consumer product there is no one best choice for everyone although Marketing departments will tell you otherwise.  In the future it may be possible to test drive a printer like one tests drives a car. But in the mean time for us folks bold enough to risk a few hundred dollars on a printer and learn to set up adjust and experiment we have the reward of being at the leading edge/bleeding edge of the learning curve. We can have and hold the objects that other hear about on the evening news. And there are so many facets to this technology so many dreams so many motivations.  I am fortunate to have several friends that are experienced with 3d printing  1)  An engineer / educator that has operated a statysis for about 5 years. 2) An engineer by day that has a side business doing 3d design 3d printing and selling filament and a fellow hobbyist that also does some for hire 3d printing and investment casting using lost PLA  molds.

Bottom line is you really can not know what a 3d printer will do or will not do until you use one. You have to let the printer and material tell you what it needs and lean to learn from it.

PLA likes cooling air, ABS likes a warm bed, limit negative draft to 30 degrees off vertical etc....  we find the limites then work through or around them.



Your models IMHO look pretty good. horizontal hols may need a little cleanup with a reamer. and thos dowels ay nedd some support.

Tin

+1 but I only needed bed big enough for model train details. vehicles etc. also ABS needs fan at extruder for bridges. also learned duel extruders are great for support materials that dissolve for easy cleanup. that way only thing better about the powder laser printers is maybe better fine details but at extreme cost and time. so the new workbench series have best potential ATM

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

35 (edited by Tin Falcon 2014-10-12 22:30:26)

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Maybe one I have been at this a year I may actually know What I need but in the mean time make a few prints read talk to those who know more than I do or at least a different perspective . Learn/ relearn some modeling wash and repeat!!!
I am pondering buying a bigger power supply ED3 etc then I need to decide if I wan to scratch build Upgrade the SD4 or get a tinkering machine to use as a base. I have Pondered more than once about welding a 16" cube frame and starting a build.
tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

36

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Welded frame... I've thought of that too. smile Would be super stiff, nice and heavy, and soooo much cheaper than aluminium extrusion... But the tolerances would also be a bit wide (at least with my terrible welding skillz haha!).

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

37

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

The printer arrived today - Plastic Scribbler 2100.  I have never printed anything or even seen another 3d printer in person so I can't give a real review and I'll just write about how it has been going so far.

I took some time last week to download and setup the software from the plastic scribbler website and didn't have any problems with drivers or having the printer be recognized by Windows 7.  They sent along a CD and printed instructions as well.  The installed software comes with some preset suggestions for their printer (ABS print head 255c and bed 100c)

The printer arrived well packed and nothing was loose.  From order to receiving was about 2 weeks. For construction, the cables are nicely dressed and the unit seems sturdy.  It's just an aluminum frame riveted together with plywood supports.  You aren’t going to confuse this for a $2,000+ printer, but for a printer close to $500, I think it is great

The included software is  Pronterface.  I followed the manufacturer’s instructions about homing x, y and z and loading filament.   They included instructions to level the bed as well, but I skipped it for the time being.  I didn’t want to mess with anything if it already works out of the box.   Did it work out of the box?

Yes!  I sprayed some aquanet on the glass bed, waited forever to the bed to heat up and printed my first part successfully.  Hurray!  I bought a Xbox kinect unit at gamestop last week for $25 and made a 3d image of myself with  ReconstructMe.  That worked well too, but there’s not much use for a ‘me’ doll.

I am pleased on my first day with the printer.   Perhaps things will change as time goes on and I start printing mechanical parts, but so far, so good.

Plastic Scribbler 2100

38

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

congrats on the new printer and the first print being successful.
Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

39

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

@Steve, thanks for posting.  This may be what I need to look at to replace my aging Solidoodle 2.

SD2, glass bed, MK5 setup with E3D lite extruder
NX and Solid Edge CAD user
PI, Galileo, and arduino hacker
Code Monkey and Twitter user @burhop

40

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

I'm still getting the hang of optimizing the printer. The head was definitely too close to the bed the way it came out of the box. 

Printing is improving as I adjust the nozzle spacing from the bed.  The template that came with the printer is set for a layer height of 0.0998.  I'm wondering if .1mm would be 'cleaner' if most models were designed using regular whole numbers for dimensions?

I'm getting a little warping on side walls, but no warping on the bottom.  The solution is probably here somewhere, so I have some reading to do.

Plastic Scribbler 2100

41

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

The installed software comes with some preset suggestions for their printer (ABS print head 255c and bed 100c)

I'm getting a little warping on side walls, but no warping on the bottom.  The solution is probably here somewhere, so I have some reading to do.

From my research and talking to people with more experience than I ABS needs to stay warm while printing and cool slowly. So an open frame and drafts can contribute to warping with ABS . I think if I was in your shoes I would add some plexigass or poycarbonate  side shields and possibly a front shield or door.  Cover the unit and the inside temp will rise some and the part temperature should be more consistent throughout the part.
Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

42 (edited by stevea3342 2014-10-25 14:24:37)

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

It seems like 95% of ABS printing is getting good bottom adhesion.  The other 5%, heat management during printing.  I tried throwing a garbage bag over the printer but I think I need to do better.  I will probably make some panels with corflute (corrugated plastic) and just velcro the pieces to the printer frame.  Or maybe dollar store foam board.  Either way, cheap to implement and easy access but some parts stick outside the frame like the abs spool and some wires.  I'll have to find a way to get around them.

<edit>  oh and another 50% level bed and head distance from the bed.

Plastic Scribbler 2100

43

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Kind of like yogi Bera 95%  is getting the software settings right the other 95% is is getting the hardware and electronics adjusted.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

44

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Can someone help me figure out the print problem here?  The wall front and back are not warped, but the short sides of the wall on the left and right are warped. The warping appears only from the bottom to about 5mm up and you can also see the printing is more rough in this area than the top.

I'd like to ask if this is a typical 'adhesion' problem or something with the slicing or heat management for the bed or hot end?  Any ideas? (ABS)

Thanks

http://s11.postimg.org/jmhpe42ar/apart1.jpg

Plastic Scribbler 2100

45

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

I see several issues.
Warping (enclosure?)
Poor adhesion (bed temp and surface of bed?)
Over extrusion... Calibrate steps per mm and extrusion multiplier
Moire... Adjust VREF
Backlash... Tighten belts
Hope that helps

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

46

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Thanks, that  list should keep me busy for a while.  I have enclosed the unit, but I haven't been able to get consistent adhesion yet.  I’m printing at 255, bed at 110.  It is a borosilicate print bed.  I suppose it doesn't make any sense to look at the other items until the adhesion issue is solved.

I saw some guides on checking the extrusion rate. My unit came programmed, but they included a disk with the arduino code.  I just need to confirm which version is actually on the printer.

If this line is correct, it seems like they went through some effort to tweak the numbers. I think I understand how to check the extrusion rate and where to update it.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {159.55,159.55,793,319.38102}  //Asterid 2.02.00

The vref calibration looks a bit complicated.  Mine has DRV8825 steppers, but I may need vendor help with figuring out correct belt tension and how to check/test VREF values.

Plastic Scribbler 2100

47 (edited by wardjr 2014-10-27 15:20:04)

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

stevea3342 wrote:

Thanks, that  list should keep me busy for a while.  I have enclosed the unit, but I haven't been able to get consistent adhesion yet.  I’m printing at 255, bed at 110.  It is a borosilicate print bed.  I suppose it doesn't make any sense to look at the other items until the adhesion issue is solved.

Enclosure will help a lot with your adhesion issues as it will reduce shrinkage and uneven cooling.  255 seems a bit hot and could be complicating the warping issue.  Focus on the z-height and make sure you have a good squish and your bed is level in relation to the extruder.  You can add brim to your print to help as well.

I saw some guides on checking the extrusion rate. My unit came programmed, but they included a disk with the arduino code.  I just need to confirm which version is actually on the printer.
What software are you using (Reptier-Host and Slic3r?)  Two separate things here to check.  When you tell the printer to pull 100mm's of filament does it actually do it (Steps/mm  EEPROM in R-H)  and does it actually extrude a single wall thickness equal to roughly 120% of your nozzle diameter? (Extrusion multiplier in Slic3r)

If this line is correct, it seems like they went through some effort to tweak the numbers. I think I understand how to check the extrusion rate and where to update it.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {159.55,159.55,793,319.38102}  //Asterid 2.02.00

The vref calibration looks a bit complicated.  Mine has DRV8825 steppers, but I may need vendor help with figuring out correct belt tension and how to check/test VREF values.
These are the two easiest things to check and change and you will not ever get exact numbers for VREF.
Many posts on here about VREF but basically if the axis isn't skipping at this point leave them alone until you get the other calibrations done.  Belts just need to be equal in tension and tight enough so as to not allow any slop/play in that axis.  Not so tight as to cause unnecessary friction or binding.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

48

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

I am using pronterface and slic3r and the default profile is adding a brim.

When I tell it to extrude 100mm, it pulls 100mm of ABS.  It is difficult to measure perfectly, but it seems to be dead on, or a difference that I can't measure.  The extrusion itself is between .35-.38mm when I press the 'extrude' button in pronterface. It is either not consistent or my calipers are not very good.

For some reason the default slic3er print profile(from manufacturer) has the layer height set at 0.0998 (I thought it would be .1)
The filament diameter is set to 1.73 (I thought it would  1.75).
The extrusion multiplier is 1

I'm not sure what you mean by "and does it actually extrude a single wall thickness equal to roughly 120% of your nozzle diameter?"  Should I try to print a 2mm wall?

I have tried printing at 255, 250 and 245c, but I haven't seen a change in print quality.  How low should I try?

I find I get a little better adhesion if I change the first layer hight to "0.1996".  The default was 0.3991

Plastic Scribbler 2100

49

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

Print a cube 20x20mm's and change the slice profile to one perimeter and zero infill and no top layer.  Then print it and you will get a single wall that can be measured.  If you have a . 40 nozzle the wall thickness should measure .48.  Adjust extrusion multiplier until it does.
Filament diameter should be tweaked with every new roll of filament.
As far as first layer height goes I like to run that the same as all other layers but use the z-stop adjustment to squish it a bit. 
What diameter nozzle do you have?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

50 (edited by stevea3342 2014-10-27 22:21:40)

Re: Looking for my first 3d printer

It is a .4mm nozzle. I used an existing solid cube and change the slicing parameters the way you suggested, but I'm sure if I did someting wrong.  Now it has no Z axis but I haven't printed it yet.  Was that the intention, it looks  wrong to me :-o

Do you have an object already converted to gcode that would help me get this right?

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Plastic Scribbler 2100