51

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

Well, I did two things.
1. Withdrew Z-motor with axis and manually arched axis so that the beat at the end from 4-5 millimeters turned in 1-2 millimeters.
2. Ordered in workshop metal plate thickness 4 mm, with 4 holes drilled for the motor's bolts and a few more - for attachment to the bottom of the printer. When the axis is spun, the motor attached to the bottom of the printer, curved with him, since the thickness of the bottom is very thin. Now the metal plate prevents the motor moves.
So I solved this problem, almost 9 out of 10.

52

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

I tried to add a nut to my z-axis but the nut is stuck and won't move down.
What's my problem?

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53

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

What thread is the nut?

54

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

elmoret wrote:

What thread is the nut?

7mm. Should fit on the rod.

55

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

The rod is not metric. 5/16 18tpi.

56

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

digiprint wrote:

7mm.

There's your problem!

57

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

mm2tts wrote:

The rod is not metric. 5/16 18tpi.

And where do I get ONE non-metric nut? big_smile

58

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

I'm in aus and I got mine from bunnings for like 40c. So you should be able to get one from somewhere similar - like a DIY warehouse place.

59

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

I had the same problem!!
The nut got stuck in the same position and I thought it was some irregularity with the rod.
Spent several hours grinding the top-end.

This should surely be mentioned in the wiki .....

60

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

I have now are completely useless two 5/16 18 nuts that I bought at ebay (because here unreal to buy inch standard) and with the same problem.
I printed out on a SD nut without the  thread, soften it in acetone, clocked up the threads and so left for the night. So I came out of this situation.

61

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

I found a 5/16 18tpi nut in Sweden.
Just called a biker-store, since the deal with US-parts.

The big warehouses don't have it.

62 (edited by Diecrusher 2013-03-04 18:25:34)

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

solidoodlesupport wrote:
tealvince wrote:

Another idea:  Since the banding is periodic, why not just cancel it out in the gcode?  I'd like to see this as a feature in Slic3r, but in the meantime here is a simple command line perl script that should do the trick once you experiment to find the proper displacement and phase values to cancel out:

#!/usr/bin/perl

if ($#ARGV lt 1) {
print "$#ARGV USAGE: wiggle <infile> <outfile> <max displacement (0-1.0)> <phase (0-1.0)> [<peak-to-peak spacing (mm)>]\n";
        exit;
}

$pi = 3.14159;
$displacement = 0.5;
$phase = 0.0;
$spacing = 25.4 / 18;

if ($ARGV[2] > 0 && $ARGV[2] <= 1.0) {
        $displacement = $ARGV[2];
}
if ($ARGV[3] > 0 && $ARGV[3] <= 1.0) {
        $phase = $ARGV[3];
}
if ($ARGV[4] > 0) {
        $spacing = $ARGV[4];
}

open(INFILE, "<$ARGV[0]") || exit;
open(OUTFILE, ">$ARGV[1]") || exit;

while(<INFILE>) {
        if (m/(G1 Z)(\d+[.]\d*)(.*)$/) {
                $val = $2 + $displacement * 0.1 * sin(2.0 * $pi * ($phase + $2 / $spacing));
                $_ = "$1$val$3\n";
        }
        print OUTFILE $_;
}

close(INFILE);
close(OUTFILE);

Very nice! If this works we will put it on Solidoodle Github, or package it with out software.

While we wont give away most of our research in to the topic, banding can be caused by interactions between the rod itself, the rods threads, the rods internal boring, the Z-motor, the rods connection to the Z-motor, and the Z-motors connection to the Solidoodle. The problem doesn't manifest from the same circumstances Solidoodle to Solidoodle. We've tried a few things with good results, but the issue (as always) is cost. There are definite tried and true solutions to this issue, but they are typically expensive and would take us away from our mission to provide the printer at a reasonable figure for consumers.

That said, given sufficient demand we could consider putting some more expensive solutions in our store as "upgrade" options. We've shied away from this since we do not want to give the impression that you need to get an upgrade to make the Solidoodle work correctly in the first place. What we'd really like is a solution that makes the $499 base model work without banding each and every time - we don't want to have to increase the price. That said, who knows - if there is sufficient demand we'd be open to offering wobble reducing solutions in the store.

Regards,
John


Curious, you say "While we wont give away most of our research into the topic" you will also use this guys work to your advantage and package it out with your software.

That kinda sucks..... smile

63

Re: Im having some problems with .1mm printing

Any new info on this problem? I've had my SD2 since OCT of last year and I have yet to be able to print in high res with acceptable results. I see others doing it. So I don't understand why I cant? Is SD support even still working on this issue?