It's all gone wrong !!

Does it clog or does the filament get bent inside the extruder assembly ?
If its bent, then feed rate is too high, slow down the feed rate to see.
ABS is very slow at print speeds, like 1/3 of PLA is safe speed.
Especially when printing 100% infill making an object solid this can occur.

When it gets mingled up in the carriage, it means its trying to go in too fast or something blocking it.
Try pulling what ever is in there out. It must be jammed. I dont know the nozzle setup but worse case scenario you gotta take it apart and clean it.

Few questions I have that may be meaningless, but still worth asking. First is how clean is the glass? Second is what are you using on the glass to get the ABS to adhere (UHU stick, ABS slurry or whatever)? Last thing I'd normally ask is about bed level, but your post says that you handled that issue.

I'm also trying to understand what you mean about the print failing. Are you telling us that even if the first layer goes on OK, it's getting yanked loose and then following the print head around? Is the head itself cleaned of debris (old filament burned onto it) since it's about the size of a quarter and "very" close to the print surface. Anything stuck on it will knock into what your printing and will break it away from the glass.

Sidenote to AZERATE and tonycstech;

If he's using the DaVinci stock, he has no control over print temperature or feed rate. XYZware and the printers firmware decide all that for you, you only get a few printing choices. The bottom side of the hotend is all metal, the rest is "metal enough" that any temp most other printers could use wouldn't hurt it. The fan on the hotend itself isn't for cooling the material extruded, but cools the top of the hotend / feed roller area and you can't control it.

My experience would tend to indicate that the problem is the heater in the extruder going cold. The header wires (they're the big fat red ones going into the extruder) clip into the main wiring harness at the top with a black clip. If you touch those wires while the extruder is hot, you'll notice that the clip gets quite hot too. My theory is that heat mucks around with the connection and the power to the heater gets lost. I also noticed that the problem is more severe when i'm doing prints on the frontmost extremity of the print bed... this pulls the wiring harness tight, and puts strain on the connector as well. Because these are basically dumb machines, the printer doesn't know that the heater has lost power so it's sending commands to the filament loader to keep on serving up more filament, which doesn't work because the head's gone cold. THAT's the knocking noise. My solution (so far) was to zip tie together the black connector that attaches the heater wires to the main harness. So far this has worked very well.

Thanks guys... Had a nice long chat with XYZ customer service last night... I think your advice is makes as much sense as theirs. from XYZ... I need to open the extruder up make sure there isn't and fill meant inside, then remove it and clean the gear wheels out... then maintenance between each print should include bed calibration, a good cleaning of the extruder head, probably need to use the piano wire thingy to make sure no internal clogs are forming, and I might want to experiment with other glues on the heated bed, try and find something stickier... ( on that issue ) been kinda having luck with Elmer's glue stick that changes color it doesn't stain the models any but going on purple does help you see what you got covered and what you missed. Also it helps you see when it's drying out. That was their last piece of advice, don't let the glue stay on the table to long before printing because of the heat involved it dries out really fast and is useless then. Yah I am just about certain this is Newbie Gibberish... but it might save somebody another 1am call if they see some of these things! of to get some zip ties now so I can cut open the harness and take the extruder out! BTW incase anyone cares they are beefing up their video tutorial section a lot all of a sudden. I was on their 2 days ago and thought I had seen them all, then on the call last night she mentioned 3 I hadn't seen, and all of a sudden they were there. so they are trying to get oiut of beta testing on the website at least!

In my experience there are TWO causes of a clunking noise followed by loss of registration. The first, as I mention previously is loss of heat to the extruder... because this can be momentary the printer can sometimes "recover" and continue on as if nothing happened (although it HAS happened because the alignment was thrown off by the clunking).
The second cause is only experienced by people using XYZ cartridges, where the filament gets stuck or pinched in the cartridge and the filament stepper motor isn't strong enough to continue pulling it out of the cartridge. Sometimes the reason for this is forgetting to remove the white plastic plug on the side of the cartridge... other times its just because the spool was packed poorly. The reason why the problem doesn't usually show up when you begin to print is that for the first layer anyway, the extruder is moving much slower and the stepper motor has to pull less strongly and less often for that first layer... however when the print speed ramps up for the 2nd and subsequent layers the filament stepper motor can no longer pull the filament out of the cartridge fast enough. Easy enough to check... you should be able to pull the filament out of the cartridge with just a little bit of effort... you should never have to tug at it for it to come out.

It's important to note that the loss of heat is not usually due to BROKEN wires... the problem is the connector from the heater to the daVinci's wiring harness. The XYZ engineers' choice of connector was a abysmal choice for the job. The heat generated by the extruder travels up the connectors and ultimately warps the connector so that it no longer makes proper contact. When the problem initially presents itself its hard to track down because the connector cools and the contacts return to their original position. Over time however, the expansion and contraction ultimately degrades the connector until it stops working all together.
A little search in this and other forums will provide you with lots of information on the recommendations for replacing the connector with a better solution.
Just trying to to warn you off thinking that if you inspect the wires and don't see a break that you may come to the conclusion that's there's nothing wrong.