The part of the extruder that the motor attaches to is glued to the front bearing bock. IN the picture below, I separated them so you can see where the glue joint is (yellow area).
I use something called Acrylic Cement from Tap Plastics which is a highly concentrated form of acetone. Using this, glue joints are stronger than the surrounding material. Once you have this, everything else goes together with screws, no more gluing.
Other Assembly Notes:
The rear bearing block is held in place by a single screw, you don't want to overtightened it, you want it to be able "float", this way it doesn't bind during fast moves, it sort of "follows" along because it can pivot slightly.
Depending on how accurate your printer is, the holes for the LM8UU bearings might be a bit loose or tight, In my case they were near perfect, but after a little use the bearing started to partially come out after long prints, so I took them out, wrapped them in a couple of layers of Kapton, put them back, and they never came out since.
The Spring is something I bought at the hardware store. I bought one of those bags of 100 springs for $4, and there were about 4 like springs that fit perfectly. The "cups" the springs sit in, are 8mm diameter. and the spring, uncompressed, is about 20mm long.
The little block the spring presses against can be adjusted slightly to apply more pressure on the spring. Simply turn it counter clockwise a few degrees to compress the sring more, then tighten the screw.
The hole at the bottom (leading to the hot end is 4mm and it's designed to take a piece of PTFE tubing (4mm OD x 2mm ID). At the top, in the spring loaded arm, the hole is actually a slot, and it's meant to stay open, this way it gives the filament a chance to move bit while it centers itself in the drive gear groove.
All the screw holes are for M3 screws. I recommend using washers on all the screws. The pressure bearing arm uses a M5 screw for the bearing. Just reuse the bearing and screw from the original extruder.
That's about all I can think of for the moment. Let me know if you have any problems.
PS. I don't know where the temp zones are on the E3D, perhaps Elmoret can chime in. So I'm not sure if the E3D will affect any of the surrounding areas. Especially if you consider the E3D can be cranked up really high to print nylon. Speaking of which I would like to get this printed in Nylon.
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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods, Printrbot Simple Maker Ed., FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.