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Topic: How are the latest Solidoodles?

I purchased 2 Solidoodle-2 printers about 2 years ago.  About a year later, I upgraded to an Aluminatus and sold the Solidoodle-2s.

I now may need to create a printer farm, so I'm considering buying 5 or 10 $500 printers.  I wonder if the Solidoodle has matured to the point where all of those mods are no longer required (although they might be desirable).  Which of the mods are required, and which are optional?

I also note this on the Solidoodle site: "ABS filament recommended, but using PLA is possible."  I never printed with PLA on my Solidoodles, but I print with PLA primarily on my Aluminati.  Are people printing easily and reliably with PLA on their Solidoodles?

Thanks

Jon

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

Crickets?  Really?

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

I found a site where you can read about user experiences with Solidoodles. Its called:

http://www.soliforum.com

No one is answering because the answers you seek are already here. Its not other people's responsibility to aggregate them for you.

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

big_smile big_smile

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

Two years ago, people were both more helpful and more friendly.

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

jon_bondy wrote:

Two years ago, people were both more helpful and more friendly.

It is possible you got caught in the fray of another user.  Still here to help

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

wardjr wrote:
jon_bondy wrote:

Two years ago, people were both more helpful and more friendly.

It is possible you got caught in the fray of another user.  Still here to help

Thanks.  When people ask me questions, I just answer them, so I find the reverse attitude puzzling and alien.

I'm just wondering whether the latest Solidoodles are more solid, require fewer mods, and embody two  years of experience and improved design; or not.  Some of the comments I've seen are still very negative ("just throw your extruder and hot end away and print/buy a replacement").  It's hard to judge how representative such comments might be.

I want to know whether I can buy an SD2 and get decent prints, or whether I will need to invest a day, or three or $200 to get there.

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

I purchased a refurbished SD2P and once you get the calibration workflow memorized, your golden. Prints come out looking exactly as you planned them and the hardware is easy to modify if they don't.

Solidoodle 2 Pro - 3mm Glass Bed

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

Thanks.  Very helpful!

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

They are pretty much the same.  The bed isn't wood anymore, and they just announced that all models will be getting the aluminum extruder that debuted on the SD4, so the acrylic jigsaw puzzle is finally gone.  They haven't done anything to the X,Y and Z axes.  I haven't seen many complaints or examples of Z banding lately, so maybe they improved quality control even though the design didn't change.

You should add glass plates and E3Ds to all of them, but I think that would be good advice for any printer in the $500 range.  One change that is a bit of a problem is the move from Sanguinololu to Printrboard.  The stepper drivers are soldered in to the Printrboard, so you can't replace the Extruder driver with an 8825 to get 1/32 microstepping.  If you want to get rid of the moire pattern on the surface of the prints you need to increase E steps, and the only way to do that on the current Solidoodle is replacing the E stepper with a motor that does 400 steps per revolution.

If you are printing PLA, you might consider going a little more expensive and look into a Mendel90 or Ordbot kit at around $800.  Making a printer farm from kits is more work, but you will get better quality at higher speeds.  I run my Ord at 150mm/s and get better quality prints than I ever did with the Solidoodle with no trouble.  It could go even faster, but requires more optimized temp settings to keep extrusion consistent at high speeds.  The Mendel90 is developed and sold by Nophead, who is probably the most knowledgeable Reprap guy out there.  It includes a filament dust wiper and nozzle fan, which I've only ever seen as a user-added feature.

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Re: How are the latest Solidoodles?

Stepped away for a bit but Ian really summed it all up very nicely.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions