1 Topic by Brad

  • Brad
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Topic: Prints with corner lifting

My first few prints were awesome with no lifting at all, probably because there wasn't a lot of actual surface area of the print on the bed. I usually run my bed at 80C.

Now, my most current print was a large rectangular tool, and the corners started lifting. My solution was to turn the bed up to 120C mid print, and carefully push down on the lifted corners. I was successful with this method of fixing an almost failed print, and it turned out great in the end.

Any other tips out there for dealing with lifting corners?

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2 Reply by Merko

  • Merko
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Re: Prints with corner lifting

I've always set my bed to 90c. Havent got any problems yet. Only if i start to prints when the bed is at 50-60c (i sometimes hit "print" to fast.. big_smile)

3 Reply by Gordym

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Re: Prints with corner lifting

I replaced my tape yesterday and printed a couple things. The edges on my prints lifted as well. The prints on the first tape did not lift.  I have been running my bed at 100c and do not print until it hits that setting. I may have a few small air bubbles in my tape application so it may be related to that. I will run a test print tonight with a higher bed temp. I also held the edges down on the bed to try to flatten the print and they turned out ok.

SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6

4 Reply by Brad

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Re: Prints with corner lifting

Is there any oily residue left on the bed from your fingers after you applied it? That could have an effect.

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5 Reply by Caucasian

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Re: Prints with corner lifting

As recommended by another user, after I got mine fired up I cleaned it lightly with a small amount of acetone on a clean, dry rag.

It sticks beautifully, and continues to for about 15 prints. I do have mine set to "smoosh" the plastic into the bed on the first print (as seen in a post from Ian on his wordpress here - http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com) in the bed. I have been using 100 degrees for the bed temp and 200 for the nozzle, when the print is near 2-3 minutes out I manually set the bed to 85. I think having it set to press down the first layer does increase the adhesion. I have heard others recommend aqua net, but have yet to try it since there was no need.

After about 15 prints, the first outlines weren't sticking as well, but once the prints began the first layer of fill it more or less corrected itself if not missing 1-3 inches of outline at a random part, probably just needs another wipe down with a little acetone.

6 Reply by lawsy

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Re: Prints with corner lifting

-Level bed with nice z height
-Nice smooth kapton tape
-acetone wipe

If it still won't play nice:

-slightly higher bed temp
-control temp inside machine (pro model cover and door or similar) - this can make a huge difference
-add skirt/brim in slic3r or skirt in skeinforge. If you set them to a decent amount of layers high, it will build up a little wall around the perimeter which helps the corners maintain heat and stop curling

If you're desperate:

-the hairspray trick from thingiverse
-acetone glue solution on the bed in a thin layer right before the print

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