Can't get ABS to stick to glass! (Page 1 of 2)

Does this happen with everything you print or are you having a problem with certain files? I'm using glass with Aquanet hairspray and only have problems with large solid square parts lifting these days. I've found adding circles to the corners of the large flat pieces for the first couple of layers can help them stick better.

Good luck,

TiM

Just out of curiosity, are you allowing the hairspray to thoroughly dry before printing?
I only ask because I've been impatient a couple times and had the same problem.

As a last resort, ABS slurry or glue DO work. But I usually run at 95c with just hairspray and in peachy keen! But hairspray, glue, and slurry/sauce only work if the Z has been properly calibrated for the glass you added.

I've actually been battling the same issue as Skyminer - the hairspray just wasn't the ticket, maybe I should try some more brands (any Australian Coles/Woolies recommendations? I'm using the big hot-pink one: Wella Pro-Fix Max Hold).

ABS+acetone is playing very nicely now, although I'm keeping epic brims for good measure (and it's fun peeling parts out like an airfix model...).

Any advice on improving stickiness would be welcome, I feel that I must be missing something here. My current settings:
* Stock Extruder, first layer temp 210C, other layers 200C
* Bed temp 110C (constant, well soaked)
* Glass, well levelled, various surface preps tried as above
* Layer height 0.30mm (first layer also set to 0.30mm)
* Wall width (normal perimeters) 0.48mm (newish SD3, D0.40mm nozzle - free-air extrusion corroborates), calibrated
* First layer width 0.60mm (made higher to try and tackle this issue, figure they'd be squishier - also, should I be doing these as %?)
* Reasonably well-covered box (internal ambient measured around 38C mid-print)

Anything obvious I should be trying?

Here is what I do when I am going to print an unusually large and difficult print.
Good brim is always helpful but past 4 or 5mm's there is no benefit. 
Set that first layer lower than your normal width and decrease your Z-height.  I actually run my nozzle right on the glass for all my prints first layer.  I have a Bulldog XL now but I also did this with the stock extruder and the E3D.  This will take some trial and error to get just right.  I haven't re-leveled my bed or adjusted my Z-height (other than if a mod required me to do so) in close to a year.
Aqua-net is the preferred brand of hairspray and it takes a couple of light coats with heat cool cycles in between.  The only time I need to re apply is if I decide to clean the glass.  I have only done that once and I should have left it dirty.

Think about how well that skirt loop sticks as it first starts and the filament isn't flowing fully yet.  If yours isn't sticking well then your Z-Height needs to be closer to the nozzle.
I know there will be others that will disagree with this approach.  That being said I never have a sticking issue of any kind and my prints won't come off the glass until it cools.
It looks like your temps are where they should be but that first layer height is most likely the cause of your problems. If you set the Z-height with a .xx gap between your nozzle and the glass then have a first layer height of .30 you are ending up with .xx+.30 distance between your nozzle and your glass bed.  That first layer needs to be squished good and flat on your glass. 
If a single line looks like a round string you need to decrease your Z.  If that same line is flat but curls a little on one edge you are extruding to much filament.  This is where you can manipulate the first layer width numbers to get a really nice flat line on the glass that will stick.

I hope this helps.

Well, here's where I'm at.  I cleaned my glass completely and re-hit it with a couple of good layers of hairspray (TRESemme freeze hold.. I can't find Aquanet here), then let it all sit for 1/2 hr.  I then clipped it onto the bed, heated it up to 110, and let it sit another 1/2 hour in the machine, which is in an enclosure.  I adjusted the Z height so that the nozzle is right on the glass plate, and leveled everything carefully.

When printing at .3mm or .1mm, I don't even finish the 5mm brim before I need to kill the print because it's unstuck.  In both cases, I'm printing the brim slowly (30% speed), and thick to get lots of ABS on there (.35mm).  I did try less thickness for the 1st layer to see if it'd make any difference, and it seemed worse.. not as much ABS coming out to stick to the glass.  Even parts that have not risen from the glass are easily plucked off with tweesers. 

It's worth noting that when I used these same settings with just the kapton (before it ripped and I tried to switch to glass), everything printed successfully.

Dumb question, but when it's heated to 110 (or whatever temp the bed is at), should the glass feel sticky/tacky/gummy?

Not really.  There is some chemical in Aqua-net that works well with ABS.  It is mentioned some where here on the forum probably in the STICKY's somewhere.  I am wondering if the spray your using isn't the problem.  You might just try finding some with the same contents as aqua-net.  Also it is worth mention... I am not a believer in clips to hold the glass in place.  A little Aqua-net on the underside of the glass will stick it to the bed also.  I know that doesn't help if you can't get that but I bet there is an equivalent in your area.  You might be better off to try without any spray I have certainly printed that way successfully.
When you ran the nozzle on the glass are you sure it wasn't so tight that the extruder was unable to push filament out.
I am also wondering if your temps are accurate?  Have you verified them with another means of measuring?  Hotter filament on the first layer helps.

Thanks for the advise wardjr. I haven't given up on ABS. I've had a lot of luck with it up until a couple days ago when I changed my tape. I'm gonna try my theory of running a few PLA prints on the tape then going back to ABS again and see if it starts sticking again.   I may try hairspay on glass next. I've had luck with painters tape so I haven't needed to try that yet. I'm glad I know how to apply it properly now from reading this thread so, thanks for that guys.

Thanks for the tips wardjr and autoxer - I'll have a crack tonight with default first-layer wall width and paying attention to dialing in the z-stop and first-layer-height instead, I'll let you all know how it goes.

Using Elmer's glue stick. Just remove the glass from the heated bed. As it cools the print will pop off all by itself in a minute or two. You can hear it snap off as the plastic shrinks. I have not needed to use any prying device to remove prints this way. Glass, Elmer's glue stick, remove glass, wait 2 minutes, done. Meanwhile you could have another print started.

This is exactly why I don't recommend the use of binders on the glass.  Looks to me like your making good progress towards a system that works for you.