Mounting a New Anti Backlash Nut (Page 1 of 2)

Aluminum is often machined at relatively high rpms compared to steel.  Although the dremel will run too high for optimal bit life.  But I wouldn't hesitate to use the dremel to drill the holes.  Start with a small drill bit.  1/16" then step your way up to your desired target diameter, and you will have a much easier time, and it will not be as hard on your dremel or drill bits.  It wouldn't be a terrible idea to use a small drop of oil on the target hole location before drilling.

No promises that this will be nice to your drill bits.

But you should be just fine, especially if you start small and step up like I suggested. That is some serious precision you got for yourself.  Best of luck.

yeah - prob easiest to drill the bed - its really very soft - I hand tapped out the holes in mine...

Just use 'cutting fluid' aka - light oil or kerosene (better if you have it) and start small as suggested already by pastprimitive. If you get it started you can probably even hand drill/tap it out..

And yes - I think thats the kit one I suggested + the extra nut yes (which we agreed was probably overkill but why not?) ? should post the URL for others if it works well

spent the last of my money on the leadscrew, i almost never need a drill the dremel will usually suffice . whatt i need is to borrow a drill lol

heres the link if anyone is interested, it isnt very exspensive  $75 total (shipping was $28 or close to it) and its just about the right length  I dont think Im going have to cut it down.

http://www.robotdigg.com/product/8/Thre … -Leadscrew

Im kinda sick today but when I around to installing it Ill post some pictures and let ya know how it went

It should be noted for others this is a luxury upgrade and not a necessity. One could argue its quite over-engineering the solution But! - I recommended this solution in answer to a specific question - 'what is the very best precision thing I could do for the Z-Axis'

So for other readers - don't ignore the other cheaper/simpler/more basic solutions first

Also with robotdigg you can benefit from getting a lot more than just the motor, and your shipping will still be $30-50. As in, they don't jack up the price and hide the cost in the price, they give actual fedex shipping and it arrives *quick* from china.

After their initial slightly spammy introduction to the forums, I've actually really liked the orders I made. Mediocre communication, but good product and fast shipping (for china-based peeps.)

+1 for the center punch, a spring loaded one would be ideal in this case.

That's beautifull!

i tried 1600 , when i told it to move 10mm it moves appx 50! whats goin on here ?

Turns out he actually needed to be 3200 - as his using 8825's apparently and they were set to 1/32....  but as I said, much better off reconfiguring for 1/4 step and getting the torque back and reducing the step-frequency-impact on Marlin by reducing it to 400....

I've also suggested that he should be able to just confirm it from the vendor he bought it from - as the steps-per-mm have nothing to do with the printer/board/etc - its just effected by the microsteps but the actual mechanical movement has nothing to do with it otherwise...

Drill chatter when starting the hole is exactly what the center punch helps eliminate. . And it most likely (unless if your smaller bit was really blunt?) would have been worse if you started with a larger diameter drill bit. Glad it worked, just FYI if you do this again.

W/o punch applying firm pressure and starting really slow is even more important, to the point it might be bad for your bit (since you're initially using it to "scrape" the surface at slow speed) -- at least in my experience, feel free to correct me. A fresh, sharp bit also always helps.

Edit: Here, this explains whys better than me http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilot_hole (note explanation about bit chisel, and remark about punch)

i measured the pitch its indeed 2mm, ran into some issues yesterday. sorta my fault sent the carriage slamming into the floor and with the new higher torque  i messed up the motor it used to GLIDE nice and super quiet  it sounded perfect... its now loud as shit and really pissing me off.. i took it apart and made sure the bearings were seated correctly, and made sure everything was were it was supposed to be. it looks absolutely fine! put it back together  its still loud as shit.  *hits head on desk*

today i had an idead to switch the components around basically used the solidoodle motor coils and the chineese bearing holders(silver parts) and the ACME rotor. it works it was nice and quiet  till i mounted it to the case. thinking of some kind of rubber gasket to isolate some of the sound? i dunno what to use though.

anyway its still loud but it spins. i have my jumpers set to 1/4 step but the steps per/min that actually work are for whole steps i dunno what the hell is going on.  right now its at 100. and im calibrating it as im writing this.

the Z wobble is completely gone i have no more ribbing on the sides and front. and the only thing that i need to work on is the anti backlash nut needs dremeled a tiny bit cause it hits the y jackshaft when its in the home position

+1